When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Congrats. Judging by the grime on the transmission, the engine bay and trans tunnel will probably benefit from a good pressure wash. Are you making other changes while the engine is out or are you focusing on just getting the new engine in and running?
Congrats. Judging by the grime on the transmission, the engine bay and trans tunnel will probably benefit from a good pressure wash. Are you making other changes while the engine is out or are you focusing on just getting the new engine in and running?
I'm going to take some time to make sure the engine bay is clean before I start getting the motor ready to drop. After I get it all clean I will probably start on the fuel lines while I have the room to move around. But yeah, focus will be on getting it in and running. When that is done I will turn to brakes and suspension. I'm trying really hard not to get side tracked by other areas that aren't critical to engine swap!
Great progress! Cool coincidence you found the build sheet on the car's birthday!
Keep the updates coming! Even though we started our Lq4 swaps into our 71's around the same time you will be ahead of me so I can follow what you were doing
Great progress! Cool coincidence you found the build sheet on the car's birthday!
Keep the updates coming! Even though we started our Lq4 swaps into our 71's around the same time you will be ahead of me so I can follow what you were doing
In your defense it looks like you are doing way more extensive work!! Love the wiper motor relocation, can you post more details (pics) on that?
Took dash apart so I can access where wiring will go..Pretty sure I am going to mount computer under dash where speaker would go. Got the gas tank out along with what was left of old exhaust. Then my radiator got delivered so I set it in place to check it out.
Took dash apart so I can access where wiring will go..Pretty sure I am going to mount computer under dash where speaker would go. Got the gas tank out along with what was left of old exhaust. Then my radiator got delivered so I set it in place to check it out.
want to upload pics but this site is jacked with pic uploads right now
Those lines from the gas tank that go inside the car are most likely for the charcoal canister (evap canister?). It will be bolted to the rear seat divider tray on the passenger side. There will be a square box covering it and you will see those lines running in and out of it.
I'll put some more pics and details in my thread about the relocation of the wiper motor, that might take me a bit as I have to find those pics and upload them somewhere. To give you a general idea, since I am making a new firewall I just cut out the area of the wiper motor in the old firewall. Used that as a template on the new firewall and moved it under the driver fender cowl area. I then took out the wiper arms (think it's only 2 or 4 bolts) cut the main arm that goes from the motor and then used a steel rod as the extension, beveled the edges on the rod so it fits inside the curvature of the stock arms. Getting the length was the most difficult part, if it's too long or short it will bind during the motor's rotation. I then just used nutserts to mount the wiper motor in it's new location. All in all it was a easy modification, you could do the same on your car, the only problem you will run into is covering the hole from the old wiper motor location.
Those lines from the gas tank that go inside the car are most likely for the charcoal canister (evap canister?). It will be bolted to the rear seat divider tray on the passenger side. There will be a square box covering it and you will see those lines running in and out of it.
I'll put some more pics and details in my thread about the relocation of the wiper motor, that might take me a bit as I have to find those pics and upload them somewhere. To give you a general idea, since I am making a new firewall I just cut out the area of the wiper motor in the old firewall. Used that as a template on the new firewall and moved it under the driver fender cowl area. I then took out the wiper arms (think it's only 2 or 4 bolts) cut the main arm that goes from the motor and then used a steel rod as the extension, beveled the edges on the rod so it fits inside the curvature of the stock arms. Getting the length was the most difficult part, if it's too long or short it will bind during the motor's rotation. I then just used nutserts to mount the wiper motor in it's new location. All in all it was a easy modification, you could do the same on your car, the only problem you will run into is covering the hole from the old wiper motor location.
Thanks for the heads up, I think I will investigate those lines tonight! I want to get all that stuff out before I start running new lines!
Wiper motor relocation doesn't sound too bad.. maybe a little ambitious for me right now.. maybe after its running!
Congrats! That's a nicely tucked-away location and mounding method. If you have any doubts about the upper mounting tab welds, you might consider drilling holes through the dash and the brackets and popping a rivet through the center as insurance (I assume the dash pad would cover them). Are you going to have room to mount the ashtray door?
Thanks also for posting these in the video format. I know that takes a fair amount of time to load and edit. Maybe I should do some of my write-ups as videos.
Congrats! That's a nicely tucked-away location and mounding method. If you have any doubts about the upper mounting tab welds, you might consider drilling holes through the dash and the brackets and popping a rivet through the center as insurance (I assume the dash pad would cover them). Are you going to have room to mount the ashtray door?
Thanks also for posting these in the video format. I know that takes a fair amount of time to load and edit. Maybe I should do some of my write-ups as videos.
Thank you! Good idea on the rivets.. I should have just done that to begin with, oh well :/ The ash tray fit in testing. I need to do a final fit. There is a little bit of adjustment so I should be good. I didnt want to give up the ash tray or the glove box!
The videos are a fun motivating thing for me to do. I don't really do them as a tutorial but more of a record for myself but posting them online motivates me to do more work and in a timely matter instead of sitting on projects! Kind of like oh crap its been a week since I posted, I better get out there and get something done! I would definitely encourage you to do videos! We would all benefit from them!
Why are the motor mounts such a pain to remove?!?!? I didn't want to deal with sockets and wobblys and extensions so I just cut the old mounts off.. what a pain.. cant wait to put new ones on..
Why are the motor mounts such a pain to remove?!?!? I didn't want to deal with sockets and wobblys and extensions so I just cut the old mounts off.. what a pain.. cant wait to put new ones on..
New ones are a pain to install, but at least you will have new hardware. Removing the lower control arms makes it easier, but that's a pain in itself.
New ones are a pain to install, but at least you will have new hardware. Removing the lower control arms makes it easier, but that's a pain in itself.
Andrew
i figured if I was going to power through the pain of the mounts it would be on the install hopefully once! I did contemplate removing the control arm but I feel that may open up a can of worms.. I don't want to remove them until I get updated suspension components and I don't want to buy all that now and escalate the project. So I will just get my younger son to come help on the top side and hopefully I don't throw anything from frustration!
Don't use wobblies! Get a simple straight extension with a good fitting, short SIX POINT socket. Place a non-locking FLANGE NUT into the socket/extension (no ratchet, just hold it with your hand) and feed it up carefully while looking from underneath. Let gravity hold the nut with the flange against the socket as you pilot it onto the bolt. Use your other hand to push down on and turn the bolt from the top until they thread together. Make sure they are threading straight and snug them just finger tight. After you get the engine bolted in to car and center the tailshaft, go back and tighten the nuts. Leaving them just finger snug will give everything room for alignment. Be sure to raise the car enough to get yourself under there and work comfortably. I have replaced those a few times and while it isn't the easiest thing to get to, the method above has made it happen for me. Another way I've done it is to keep a bright light under the car and look down through the holes from the top so I can bring the nut up to the hole, then thread the bolt in after it's close.
Don't use wobblies! Get a simple straight extension with a good fitting, short SIX POINT socket. Place a non-locking FLANGE NUT into the socket/extension (no ratchet, just hold it with your hand) and feed it up carefully while looking from underneath. Let gravity hold the nut with the flange against the socket as you pilot it onto the bolt. Use your other hand to push down on and turn the bolt from the top until they thread together. Make sure they are threading straight and snug them just finger tight. After you get the engine bolted in to car and center the tailshaft, go back and tighten the nuts. Leaving them just finger snug will give everything room for alignment. Be sure to raise the car enough to get yourself under there and work comfortably. I have replaced those a few times and while it isn't the easiest thing to get to, the method above has made it happen for me. Another way I've done it is to keep a bright light under the car and look down through the holes from the top so I can bring the nut up to the hole, then thread the bolt in after it's close.
Thanks for the tips! That should give me a good starting point. I am using the Holley mounts and they have lock nuts but I should still be able to do it with a short socket.. I just need to go in knowing its going to be a pain and tedious and to take it slow!
This weekend I got a good amount done on my fuel lines. It took a lot longer that I had expected but that's ok because I wanted to take my time and do a good job. I still need to get a few fittings but I basically have the line ran from back of car to firewall. I only took a couple pics but I have a video of what I have done so far.
Can someone chime in and help me.. I am a noob with AN fittings...
I have this regular -8 fitting attaching to an adapter... (See pic).. the adapter doesnt have the 37 degree face to seal but an O-ring... the o-ring seems to big to fit inside the the -8 end.. but then when you tighten it as shown in the pic, the swivel part of -8 fitting seems loose and like a leak point?
04-16-2018, 10:45 AM
