!!Need help!! with my 9" install
03-18-2018, 11:42 PM
#21
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03-19-2018, 04:27 AM
#22
That looks wrong. But the only way you are truly going to know if the LCA mounts are welded correct, is to put the axles in, bolt the wheels on, fit the torque arm, and sit the car on the ground under it's own weight.. and look at where the wheels sit. You can move the rear axle back/forth with adjustable LCA's.
When I fitted my S60 I had to move my rear axle 1/4" back over where it was standard with the adjustable LCA's so I could reuse my PST Cm driveshaft I already had (which thankfully was about 3/4" too short for the previous setup and I squeezed even more out of it by machining down my slip yoke a little).
You can move things around and get it right without redoing the housing.. Founders adjustable LCA's are cheap option. I have their heim joints on both ends. It's loud and clunks sometimes but IDC, I've setup this car so far for all out performance.. and perform it does for the current cam-only turd that it is.. it's a gutted hardtop 94 with nothing in it but 2 front seats, no swaybar, no abs, no A/C, the under dash is gutted, rewired, no factory bumper supports, half the car is sitting in my garage LOL. It easily walks other much higher modified heavy LS cars even LS3's. Every single time I drive it I think how the "F*CK" is this a cam only LS1?! I've owned several LS powered cars, but this was my first LIGHT 4th gen. I can only imagine it with some real HP.. i'll be afraid to WOT it.
When I fitted my S60 I had to move my rear axle 1/4" back over where it was standard with the adjustable LCA's so I could reuse my PST Cm driveshaft I already had (which thankfully was about 3/4" too short for the previous setup and I squeezed even more out of it by machining down my slip yoke a little).
You can move things around and get it right without redoing the housing.. Founders adjustable LCA's are cheap option. I have their heim joints on both ends. It's loud and clunks sometimes but IDC, I've setup this car so far for all out performance.. and perform it does for the current cam-only turd that it is.. it's a gutted hardtop 94 with nothing in it but 2 front seats, no swaybar, no abs, no A/C, the under dash is gutted, rewired, no factory bumper supports, half the car is sitting in my garage LOL. It easily walks other much higher modified heavy LS cars even LS3's. Every single time I drive it I think how the "F*CK" is this a cam only LS1?! I've owned several LS powered cars, but this was my first LIGHT 4th gen. I can only imagine it with some real HP.. i'll be afraid to WOT it.
03-19-2018, 09:28 AM
#23
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Thread Starter
That looks wrong. But the only way you are truly going to know if the LCA mounts are welded correct, is to put the axles in, bolt the wheels on, fit the torque arm, and sit the car on the ground under it's own weight.. and look at where the wheels sit. You can move the rear axle back/forth with adjustable LCA's.
When I fitted my S60 I had to move my rear axle 1/4" back over where it was standard with the adjustable LCA's so I could reuse my PST Cm driveshaft I already had (which thankfully was about 3/4" too short for the previous setup and I squeezed even more out of it by machining down my slip yoke a little).
You can move things around and get it right without redoing the housing.. Founders adjustable LCA's are cheap option. I have their heim joints on both ends. It's loud and clunks sometimes but IDC, I've setup this car so far for all out performance.. and perform it does for the current cam-only turd that it is.. it's a gutted hardtop 94 with nothing in it but 2 front seats, no swaybar, no abs, no A/C, the under dash is gutted, rewired, no factory bumper supports, half the car is sitting in my garage LOL. It easily walks other much higher modified heavy LS cars even LS3's. Every single time I drive it I think how the "F*CK" is this a cam only LS1?! I've owned several LS powered cars, but this was my first LIGHT 4th gen. I can only imagine it with some real HP.. i'll be afraid to WOT it.
When I fitted my S60 I had to move my rear axle 1/4" back over where it was standard with the adjustable LCA's so I could reuse my PST Cm driveshaft I already had (which thankfully was about 3/4" too short for the previous setup and I squeezed even more out of it by machining down my slip yoke a little).
You can move things around and get it right without redoing the housing.. Founders adjustable LCA's are cheap option. I have their heim joints on both ends. It's loud and clunks sometimes but IDC, I've setup this car so far for all out performance.. and perform it does for the current cam-only turd that it is.. it's a gutted hardtop 94 with nothing in it but 2 front seats, no swaybar, no abs, no A/C, the under dash is gutted, rewired, no factory bumper supports, half the car is sitting in my garage LOL. It easily walks other much higher modified heavy LS cars even LS3's. Every single time I drive it I think how the "F*CK" is this a cam only LS1?! I've owned several LS powered cars, but this was my first LIGHT 4th gen. I can only imagine it with some real HP.. i'll be afraid to WOT it.
03-19-2018, 07:02 PM
#24
I was just pointing out that if you need to move the rear axle only 1/4" or so, you can do so with adjustable LCA's and everything just moves with it.. as I found out with mine.
If your LCA brackets are welded on more wrong than that amount, yeah, no good.
If your LCA brackets are welded on more wrong than that amount, yeah, no good.
03-20-2018, 10:01 AM
#26
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Thread Starter
I have contacted them twice now and sent them pictures to Mikes phone as he requested. He has recieved the pics and told me he and his guys were going to look at them in the afternoon and get back with me. I sent the pics at 8AM yesterday...I made the follow up call at 11am yesterday. Haven't heard back yet.
03-20-2018, 10:46 AM
#27
Might be less trouble and it would be faster to get a local guy to just move them where needed. Keep in mind the pinion angle still has some effect and you need it correct to figure out how far they need to be moved.
Bad customer service sucks, but some places are small and it's harder for them. I work at a small shop, so I know how hard it can be.
Bad customer service sucks, but some places are small and it's harder for them. I work at a small shop, so I know how hard it can be.
03-20-2018, 11:48 AM
#28
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Thread Starter
Might be less trouble and it would be faster to get a local guy to just move them where needed. Keep in mind the pinion angle still has some effect and you need it correct to figure out how far they need to be moved.
Bad customer service sucks, but some places are small and it's harder for them. I work at a small shop, so I know how hard it can be.
Bad customer service sucks, but some places are small and it's harder for them. I work at a small shop, so I know how hard it can be.
03-20-2018, 10:05 PM
#29
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Thread Starter
MAJOR UPDATE
After about an hour on the phone with Mike we went through some troubleshooting to get this problem sorted out. I removed my BMR adj torque arm and reinstalled my UMI non adjustable torque arm I had before the 9". Well guess what, the perches aligned up and the springs fit...I then layed the arms on top of one another and the BMR arm was not even close to being correct. I adjusted the bottom adjusting tab until they matched back up with one another (the arms) and tried again. New problem. After bolting the TA to the housing and the crossmember with the bushing installed on the nose of the arm I tried to install the crossmember with the TA bracket installed on the housing. Well this is impossible because the crossmember is pushed about 1 inch too far foward and I can't bolt it up to the car. I have no movement with the arm. I am going to have to figure this problem out when I get some daylight. I'll keep you guys updated.
After about an hour on the phone with Mike we went through some troubleshooting to get this problem sorted out. I removed my BMR adj torque arm and reinstalled my UMI non adjustable torque arm I had before the 9". Well guess what, the perches aligned up and the springs fit...I then layed the arms on top of one another and the BMR arm was not even close to being correct. I adjusted the bottom adjusting tab until they matched back up with one another (the arms) and tried again. New problem. After bolting the TA to the housing and the crossmember with the bushing installed on the nose of the arm I tried to install the crossmember with the TA bracket installed on the housing. Well this is impossible because the crossmember is pushed about 1 inch too far foward and I can't bolt it up to the car. I have no movement with the arm. I am going to have to figure this problem out when I get some daylight. I'll keep you guys updated.
03-21-2018, 09:52 AM
#31
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03-22-2018, 10:08 AM
#32
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Thread Starter
Issues solved. Mike at QP and Eric at BMR were great to deal with. Now I would like to ask, what should I do about my brake lines and E brake? I don't want to weld anything, is there a kit to make them neat and not rub on anything? How do I go about getting the ebrake bracket and lines installed. Thanks.
03-22-2018, 07:17 PM
#34
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Thread Starter
The torque arm adjuster nuts were nowhere near where it needed to be to work with the 9-inch. I tightened up the Top Nut as much as I could and when I bolted in the crossmember I was able to Tug it back just enough so that I could thread the crossmember bolt in the hole and put it all together. I got everything bolted together and tightened but the shocks are bending back towards the front of the car slightly. I haven't had time to set pinion angle properly so I will do that and I'm sure that will alleviate the problem. My next step is to figure out what I am going to do to tidy up the brake cables so that they don't get damaged and what I should do with the E brake bracket. I see Moser sells a nylon clamp that goes around the axle for the brake lines for $10 and I've heard of people cutting the E brake bracket so I will do some investigating and calling around to see what the best option would because I don't want to do it the sloppy way I would like it to look nice. But I am really not interested in welding anyting.
03-22-2018, 07:27 PM
#35
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Thread Starter
When I received the BMR arm I just assumed it to be configure just like the non adjustable Umi arm. But when I put them one on top of the other it was clear that the BMR bar was nowhere near the stock angle of a non adjustable arm. It was something so simple I should have checked it before I put it in the car. I was sure that I would not get enough adjustment out of tightening the top mount of the torque arm but it appears that it was just enough. I did not touch the quick performance 9-inch housing bracket at all. It also looks like I might have to cut a coil or two because just by looking at it I can tell that this is going to make the rear of the car sit a little higher.
