Just got my heads back from the machine shop

this is what a typical cutter looks like on an engine mill. It's a large diameter tool - upwards of 12" - and it has a ton of inserts. All of these inserts need to be set within a "tenth" or so to make sure the finish comes out smooth. And when i say tenth, that means ten-thousandth of an inch - four places over. One of the inserts on that cutter was clearly kicked out of place and was leaving that heavy swipe. That may only be a few tenths deep, but that's more than enough to leak everything, especially compression. A surface that's wavy by a few tenths will seal, but sharp corners like that most certainly will not.

I would have them cleaned up somewhere else as opposed to running a thicker gasket. Don't go to a thicker gasket.
What cam are you running?
Here is a picture of what's on my car milled .030"
here is a (imo) much better and easier way to check ptv than dealing with clay on the piston.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ve-method.html
. Oh and tell them to debur the sharp combustion chamber edges with some 1000 grit sand paper. A sharp edge can get hot enough to cause pre ignition.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
If you have a choice a CBN cutter like a DCM will produce a better cut will far less setup time. I would question any shop that makes cuts on heads that don't have any purpose.
Rotary broach
CBN
Blockmaster
Boring bar
Sunnen CV-20 Honing machine
BHJ torque plate.
I wouldn't use a machine shop if they didn't have a Blockmaster and a good hone machine used with a torque plate.
Last edited by fex77k; Mar 28, 2018 at 10:19 AM.
. Oh and tell them to debur the sharp combustion chamber edges with some 1000 grit sand paper. A sharp edge can get hot enough to cause pre ignition.











