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You might be right as it is hard to look for the real signs inside the void with these photos. However, that top one at the inner circle looks exactly like the type of spot I would inspect further.
I've been reading they take a while and finish has been a disappointment to many. I'm thinking they will be a second set for street if I get some as they certainly have much better styling to them.
What really had me looking outside of the Speedline is the look isn't my top choice and I thought I wanted to have the correct offset, so I didn't need any spacers every. But, now that I've thought about it more I want to be able to rotate the tires and being 295/35 on all 4 would allow it unless I have rims that don't all match. That makes the spacer look like a better option even though the thought of it really doesn't work for me.
Looks like a solid conversion kit that gives a similar setup to my front setup provided in the UMI boxed lower arm. So, ignoring the cost it looks like an awesome option to me.
I got my Frostbike radiator the other day. I'm not sure when I'll try and swap it in as things are actually just okay right now with the temps only getting into the 80's now. It looks good and it is thick, but that is all I can say at this point until I fit it.
This does bring up questions about the stainless funnel or channel under the filter in my car. It was on it when I purchased it and I can't see how this thing really helps in any way unless it gets the inlet low enough to be in the pressure zone in front of the lower dam that pushes air up to the radiator. It mostly looks like it blocks air flow from going over the radiator to me. Plus, unless the car is both cool and not moving then there will be no hot air coming forward from the radiator/condenser to be pulled into the intake. What is the scoop on these things, do I keep it or ditch it?
Right now, I'm working on sealing my fuel pump access hole. Again, it was this way when I purchased the car. I did clean up the edges a little and tried to stop the rust. I am now adding .100" aluminum and a piano hinge to make a door. I'm going to use some thread inserts to provide points to bolt the door down. I'm going to use some sort of caulking to fill in part of the channel in the metal for the seal and on the base metal holding the hinge. My question is right now is what should I use to seal the door that will get opened hopefully never. However, the more I prep for it to open nicely the less likely I'll ever need to use it.
I'd guess since SLP makes this thing that the one I have is a modified copy of it because it only differs in that it goes further down (blocking more of the radiator flow?). I'll try and get a reasonable picture of mine. I also saw one on ebay or something that goes down far enough to stick out from under the cars stock aero. Question is do any of these really do anything or does it really block the radiator flow enough to matter?
Man, I was so nervous about mail ordering a radiator when I swapped mine a few years back. Horror stories about leaks and only being able to have it repaired by sending it back, then still having leaks after it was returned, etc. I just picked up a LT1 version from a local parts store for ease of swapping it out. I hope you have good luck with it.
I had the Fast Toys Ram Air on my car for a few years, and it definitely reduced the pressure loss at higher speeds, but it also reduced cooling performance. I eventually removed it and put all the OEM plastic shrouds back in place and won't put one back on my car. Putting it back to stock cured the cooling problems I had experienced.
Last edited by JimMueller; 02-27-2018 at 11:12 AM.
That is what it looked like. I guess I'll put this radiator in with it still on and that will help others know how well it will cool our cars. If it can keep my larger motor with a cam similar to an old carb muscle car in Florida during the summer while the A/C is running in traffic and being blocked by the intake, then it will likely help anyone keep their cars cool. I tune Holley at work and provide tech support to the place we buy from, so I have a good source and price to all things from there. Even without that price break it's still and awesome piece for the price, so it could be a great option for others to try if it really works.
I got a little work done on my fuel pump door. I got some cord to seal it and playing with it looked great. However, I pushed it between that deck and some aluminum and left it a couple of days. When I pulled it up it was stuck pretty hard to the surfaces so I'm not sure about it over a longer period. I think I'll still try and and if need be replace with a small foam bead seal later.
I wanted room for seal on the inside of the bolts and had to use the break at a friends shop so it was easier to go a little large and have it all be square.
Alright, washed the car last night to test the window and it no longer leaks. There was a little leak on each side. Likely from the tail lights and might not leak unless its blasted that much again. I'll leave out in the rain next to see, but is there a certain spot that is common to leak on the brake lights?
I have LT1 lights on it because it had aftermarket crap and I like how these flow better with the lines of the car anyways.
Made a straight pipe to replace the power steering cooler without needing to buy a new upper radiator hose. I think I'll have it powder coated clear to keep the polish if that stays or I'll cover it with black. I'll figure out my spot for the aftermarket cooler and measure for size while on the lift for the exhaust this weekend. Then I'll be ready to swap in the new radiator when I find a good time to do it. I'm hoping it will be next month because he can keep working on the exhaust and finishes it this month.
The 2nd quarter of my exhaust was redone on Saturday, so now I have about 1/2" more ground clearance on the driver side and I have a complete X pip making my exhaust 3" longer. I didn't get a picture, but will be working on the next quarter this weekend.
I've had this random speedometer float up and back down with the radio gets louder at the same time. I read someones post that the BCM fix made their passenger window faster and mine moves slow. Plus that means it affects more than loosing power to radio and windows. Well only one didn't look perfect and it didn't look bad enough to even worry about, but I just got done fighting that stupid bracket that holds and all the wiring connections going into it to get this look. So, sucked the solder off the 5 leads and put fresh. Also re-flowed the other 4 relay connects. Then I learned it's harder to get that thing back in the holding bracket. Got the wires and cover back on and keyed it on to test. I just now while typing it realized I had to turn down the radio, so it was probably randomly getting all the power it should. Radio might have more volume now. My passenger window does go the same speed as the drivers side. Both have newer motor as it was the first thing I did to the car after buying it. My other wonder is the speedo as it calls for 4000 pulses per mile in the manual, but I had to set the Holley up to a different rate to get my reads correct. If my speedo is off now then it's probably safe to say it won't be floating up on me anymore.
Took the wife for a ride to burn some gas and tires. The radio and speedometer screwed off again. I'm gonna pull it to put in a double din I have laying around now and look for loose grounds or something.
Started installing BLS projector headlights. They use DEPO headlight which are made in Taiwan, so they are at least 4 times better than anything from China. Lights look great, but the fit isn't perfect and I don't have stock lights to grab stock brackets. I don't even know how the stock lights fit, but I did an okay job making these fit better with 6 x 1/4" thick washers and two longer M6 bolts. Do the stock lights have the rubber fit completely up against the bottom of the front bumper? I think I can get it there by taking the lights a part and screwing out the lower one that isn't intended to be adjustable. It will just be harder to dial having to remove and dismantle part of the mount to adjust it. Actually, I can probably spin it with pliers or maybe a wrench if it has a nut on the base like the ones I removed.
By the time I got lights working and and went to aim them they were pointed at the ground. Do all of the light just fit like ****? I guess the only way to have it no capture air at the lights would be to extend the bumper back to the lights. I'll just make them shine in the right spots and let the gaps fall huge. I hope when I remove the spacers on the driver side the cut off line gets level.
The aim part I can handle unless the one projector cut line is not level. The problem is the gaps between the light and the bumper. I can fit my hand down the gap. Is that normal?
The aim part I can handle unless the one projector cut line is not level. The problem is the gaps between the light and the bumper. I can fit my hand down the gap. Is that normal?
I still have the factory headlights in my ss and they have a bit of a gap around them but a hand to fit in there seems a bit much
02-22-2018, 09:32 AM
