Stroker build help
#1
Stroker build help
Hi everyone i have a ls1 with 189k miles on it and I want to rebuild the motor but figured might as well stroke it. But I may have a deal on an ls6 6.0 that I may go with instead but my main concern ia this what is needed to basically rebuild the motor feom the ground up with the stroker kit. I was looking at tsp 383 kit and does that come with everything i need or is there more im missing and will need to buy any input would be great. And another thing would it just be better to rebuild the ls6 into a 408 stroker with the ms3 cam and 243 ported heads as well as a fast 102 intake. What do you think wpuld be better the ls6 408 or ls1 383 and which ever ine what do i all need to rebuild the block to that.
#2
Hi everyone i have a ls1 with 189k miles on it and I want to rebuild the motor but figured might as well stroke it. But I may have a deal on an ls6 6.0 that I may go with instead but my main concern ia this what is needed to basically rebuild the motor feom the ground up with the stroker kit. I was looking at tsp 383 kit and does that come with everything i need or is there more im missing and will need to buy any input would be great. And another thing would it just be better to rebuild the ls6 into a 408 stroker with the ms3 cam and 243 ported heads as well as a fast 102 intake. What do you think wpuld be better the ls6 408 or ls1 383 and which ever ine what do i all need to rebuild the block to that.
Between a 383 and a 408, I'd choose the 408. If you're not very experienced building LS engines, you might be better off purchasing an assembled shortblock from a vendor like TSP, Livernois, etc. Its real easy to mess up a stroker build and hurt some very expensive parts. If you just want to learn, I would suggest rebuilding a stock bottom end.
#3
First off, an LS6 isn't a 6.0L. It's still basically an LS1 and you can't take the cylinders out to 4.030" to make a 408.
Between a 383 and a 408, I'd choose the 408. If you're not very experienced building LS engines, you might be better off purchasing an assembled shortblock from a vendor like TSP, Livernois, etc. Its real easy to mess up a stroker build and hurt some very expensive parts. If you just want to learn, I would suggest rebuilding a stock bottom end.
Between a 383 and a 408, I'd choose the 408. If you're not very experienced building LS engines, you might be better off purchasing an assembled shortblock from a vendor like TSP, Livernois, etc. Its real easy to mess up a stroker build and hurt some very expensive parts. If you just want to learn, I would suggest rebuilding a stock bottom end.
#7
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#11
I stroked out my LS3 with no major issues. It's not terribly difficult and is the same as building a stocker with the addition of some clearancing in some key areas. My suggestion is if you are going this route, decide exactly what your goals are from the beginning, and gather up all your parts. Then temporarily assemble the crank and rods using the old bearings, but new parts and check your clearances, especially at the bottom of the piston bores where the rod ends get close. You'll want to carefully mark these "tight spots" and then remove the crank again and bust out your die grinder (if required). I notched mine out about 1/2" wide and 3/8" deep to ensure the was room there. Other than that the rest is fairly straightforward. Make sure you do the clearancing stuff before having the block cleaned and machined. That'll save you some time. You can also have the machine shop notch it for you if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself.
#12
LS Block Strength
Hi 45, could you post a picture of the front of your crankcase.
I would like ALL to see a picture of the area between the Cam Tunnel AND Main Tunnel.
Lance
I would like ALL to see a picture of the area between the Cam Tunnel AND Main Tunnel.
Lance
#13
Watch for clearance to the pan as well as the block and the windage tray will have to be moved down. Even with a kit check for clearance between the piston and the crank timing gear. At least .030 clearance on everything. If your not getting a kit make sure to use 6.125 rods and pistons for the bore and stroke your after. I didn't do a kit but I wish I had when to when it came to all the extra machining and balancing. My first stroker was a 454 to a 496 in a 69 SS chevelle. AS always start with the best head you can afford or it won't be fast. Still torquey though and easier to use with bigger cams with more stroke comes more drivability. The cam should be specked out not off the shelf. Don't forget changing the engine may require different sensors and wiring and wiring harnesses and ecu, timing cam and crank gears, for the application.
Have fun!
Have fun!
#14
a little dirty lol but that's the crank case this is from my ls1 I dont have a case for the 6.0 and im am unsure if its a lq4 or lq9 as it was just a bare block.
#15
Crankcase Picture = Front Cover
Hi 45, good picture, SORRY, I use terms learned from those who make racing engines.
Your picture is of the front crankcase cover.
I would like to inspect the area that this connects to as in the "block" ?
Lance
Your picture is of the front crankcase cover.
I would like to inspect the area that this connects to as in the "block" ?
Lance
#16