Stroker build help
Stroker build help Hi everyone i have a ls1 with 189k miles on it and I want to rebuild the motor but figured might as well stroke it. But I may have a deal on an ls6 6.0 that I may go with instead but my main concern ia this what is needed to basically rebuild the motor feom the ground up with the stroker kit. I was looking at tsp 383 kit and does that come with everything i need or is there more im missing and will need to buy any input would be great. And another thing would it just be better to rebuild the ls6 into a 408 stroker with the ms3 cam and 243 ported heads as well as a fast 102 intake. What do you think wpuld be better the ls6 408 or ls1 383 and which ever ine what do i all need to rebuild the block to that.
Hi everyone i have a ls1 with 189k miles on it and I want to rebuild the motor but figured might as well stroke it. But I may have a deal on an ls6 6.0 that I may go with instead but my main concern ia this what is needed to basically rebuild the motor feom the ground up with the stroker kit. I was looking at tsp 383 kit and does that come with everything i need or is there more im missing and will need to buy any input would be great. And another thing would it just be better to rebuild the ls6 into a 408 stroker with the ms3 cam and 243 ported heads as well as a fast 102 intake. What do you think wpuld be better the ls6 408 or ls1 383 and which ever ine what do i all need to rebuild the block to that.
Between a 383 and a 408, I'd choose the 408. If you're not very experienced building LS engines, you might be better off purchasing an assembled shortblock from a vendor like TSP, Livernois, etc. Its real easy to mess up a stroker build and hurt some very expensive parts. If you just want to learn, I would suggest rebuilding a stock bottom end.
First off, an LS6 isn't a 6.0L. It's still basically an LS1 and you can't take the cylinders out to 4.030" to make a 408.
Between a 383 and a 408, I'd choose the 408. If you're not very experienced building LS engines, you might be better off purchasing an assembled shortblock from a vendor like TSP, Livernois, etc. Its real easy to mess up a stroker build and hurt some very expensive parts. If you just want to learn, I would suggest rebuilding a stock bottom end.
Between a 383 and a 408, I'd choose the 408. If you're not very experienced building LS engines, you might be better off purchasing an assembled shortblock from a vendor like TSP, Livernois, etc. Its real easy to mess up a stroker build and hurt some very expensive parts. If you just want to learn, I would suggest rebuilding a stock bottom end.
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2016
Posts: 22,291
Likes: 3,615
From: Central Cal.
Trending Topics
LS1 Tech Stories
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
6 Common C5 Corvette Failures and What's Involved In Repairing Them
Pouria Savadkouei
Retro Modern Bandit Pontiac Trans AM Comes With Burt Reynolds' Autograph
Verdad Gallardo
Top 10 Greatest Cadillac V Series Performance Models Ever, Ranked
Pouria Savadkouei
Top 10 Most Powerful Chevy Trucks Ever Made!
Hennessey's New Supercharged Silverado ZR2 Has 700 HP
Verdad Gallardo
Coachbuilt N2A Anteros Is an LS2-Powered C6 Corvette In Italian Clothes
Verdad Gallardo
Awesome K5 Blazer Restomod Comes With C7 Corvette Power
Verdad Gallardo
10 Camaros You Should Never Buy
10 LS Engine Myths That Refuse to Die
Verdad Gallardo
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Oct 2014
Posts: 1,220
Likes: 179
From: Virginia
I stroked out my LS3 with no major issues. It's not terribly difficult and is the same as building a stocker with the addition of some clearancing in some key areas. My suggestion is if you are going this route, decide exactly what your goals are from the beginning, and gather up all your parts. Then temporarily assemble the crank and rods using the old bearings, but new parts and check your clearances, especially at the bottom of the piston bores where the rod ends get close. You'll want to carefully mark these "tight spots" and then remove the crank again and bust out your die grinder (if required). I notched mine out about 1/2" wide and 3/8" deep to ensure the was room there. Other than that the rest is fairly straightforward. Make sure you do the clearancing stuff before having the block cleaned and machined. That'll save you some time. You can also have the machine shop notch it for you if you aren't comfortable doing it yourself.
LS Block Strength Hi 45, could you post a picture of the front of your crankcase.
I would like ALL to see a picture of the area between the Cam Tunnel AND Main Tunnel.
Lance
I would like ALL to see a picture of the area between the Cam Tunnel AND Main Tunnel.
Lance
Watch for clearance to the pan as well as the block and the windage tray will have to be moved down. Even with a kit check for clearance between the piston and the crank timing gear. At least .030 clearance on everything. If your not getting a kit make sure to use 6.125 rods and pistons for the bore and stroke your after. I didn't do a kit but I wish I had when to when it came to all the extra machining and balancing. My first stroker was a 454 to a 496 in a 69 SS chevelle. AS always start with the best head you can afford or it won't be fast. Still torquey though and easier to use with bigger cams with more stroke comes more drivability. The cam should be specked out not off the shelf. Don't forget changing the engine may require different sensors and wiring and wiring harnesses and ecu, timing cam and crank gears, for the application.
Have fun!
Have fun!
Crankcase Picture = Front Cover Hi 45, good picture, SORRY, I use terms learned from those who make racing engines.
Your picture is of the front crankcase cover.
I would like to inspect the area that this connects to as in the "block" ?
Lance
Your picture is of the front crankcase cover.
I would like to inspect the area that this connects to as in the "block" ?
Lance
