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Truck, 4 Pin, 3 Wire Alternator, 1 Wire Conversion Guide.

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Old 04-04-2018, 12:24 PM
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Default Truck, 4 Pin, 3 Wire Alternator, 1 Wire Conversion Guide.

I am not sure if this is in the proper place or not.... But, I have seen many scattered threads, with conflicting information that you have to dig for.

I am posting this, as a one stop guide, WITH pictures, on how to make a truck alternator work, with a single wire.

Step 1.

Obtain the following parts:
  1. 470 ohm resistor
  2. Metri-Pack 150 series, 4 way connector

Step 2.

Trim the resistor, so that it fits into the Metri-pack pin. Insert the resistor into the pin. Make sure to not insert it too far.




Crimp, and then solder the resistor to the pin.



Solder your piece of wire, to the other end of the resistor. You do not need a massive gauge of wire.



Place heat shrink tubing over the assembly, to make it look more professional, and to keep the elements out.



Insert the pin into the SECOND from right hole, on the connector, with the tab facing up.
This image is incorrect, I had to remove and relocate the pin after these images were taken.



Ignoring the mis-located pin, place the cable holder into the connector. As well, use "blanks" for the empty holes (Not pictured.)

Link to what a "Blank" is: https://www.waytekwire.com/item/3900...s-Cable-Seal-/

You can also use hot glue, silicon, etc.



For the cable which carries the current from the alternator, I used a fairly heavy gauge cable, and added the proper terminal, and solder.



To minimize the amount of cables running through the engine pay, and to enhance the look, I planned on using wire loom for both cables.



The finished cable assembly.




Run the small gauge wire, to a "keyed" power source. Or, I suppose you could even connect it directly to the battery.
Old 04-04-2018, 12:39 PM
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Originally Posted by Ericmck2000
Or, I suppose you could even connect it directly to the battery.
Only if you want a dead battery eventually, It needs to be a switched 12v source as it draws some power when connected to a power source.

If you have a older vehicle you're wiring you can connect it like it the way they used to run them.
You can also run without a resistor and run the wire to the alternator light on the dash then to a keyed power source. Running this way when you turn the key on the light lights up until the engine is started and alternator starts charging. If the alternator fails the light will come on letting you know there is a problem.
Old 04-04-2018, 12:48 PM
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Originally Posted by LLLosingit
Only if you want a dead battery eventually, It needs to be a switched 12v source as it draws some power when connected to a power source.

If you have a older vehicle you're wiring you can connect it like it the way they used to run them.
You can also run without a resistor and run the wire to the alternator light on the dash then to a keyed power source. Running this way when you turn the key on the light lights up until the engine is started and alternator starts charging. If the alternator fails the light will come on letting you know there is a problem.
I was actually unable to find a good dummy light that I was happy with. My future dash cluster will have warning indications of a failed alternator, so, I went the resistor route.
Old 04-04-2018, 01:04 PM
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You can buy these from amazon or if you want to wait they are 1/2 the price on Ebay but ship from China. Keep in mind you may still need the inline resistor because the LED may not draw enough to excite the alternator.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YTV56M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1ZFJY6YSKB3ZG&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071YTV56M/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A1ZFJY6YSKB3ZG&psc=1






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