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Has the car had traction control removed? If so, I think you have to change the throttle cable. I believe that's what I read on here just a few days ago.
Yeah there's talk of that. It may resolve the issue but if the throttle body was designed correctly it would work properly just like the GM throttle body does. It just pisses me off that when you accurately describe the condition a faulty designed part has they refuse to display the facts.
Update. I had another lengthy call with them 3 days ago regarding the 1-15/16 of cable travel the car has vs. the 2-3/16 minimum travel required to bring this TB wide open. I was told they would have a "engineer" call me back to resolve the issue before the end of the day.
Well that never happened or possibly my secretary couldn't understand them if the "engineer" only spoke Chinese.
I'm not familiar with your cable and pedal setup so I don't know if this will work in your case. My Son-inlaws 73 Nova had the same problem, This fix in his case was to bend the arm on the throttle pedal to gain travel. It didn't take a lot.
That's not the issue. The cable is tight. I could remove the pedal from under the dash and extend the cable end lever to increase the travel but all this should never be necessary. They need to sell a part that works not this China junk.
Dude, you need to calm down and reassess the situation. It AINT the tb thats the problem. How do I know that? Because out of the tons of people I know that use them, this is the first Ive heard of it, including my own on my car. Stop trying to make a bullshit review for something that you're not doing correctly. All those TB cams are THE SAME.
I have built performance vehicles since 1986. I have built performance LS cars since 1999. The throttle bodies you have listed are not the same! I have a WARR TB right here. The WARR TB absolutely does not require 2-3/16" travel from CT to WOT. It is not a bullshit review. IT IS A FACT!
I clearly described the car but the only thing I left out is the fact that it has ASR (traction control). I can put my holley TB on it and get WOT. I put the Nick Williams I keep in stock on it and it has WOT. I put the WARR on it and it has WOT. All these other throttle bodies will go WOT with a reasonable amount of slack in the throttle cable and the JEGs and the no name Chinese clone I have here will not go WOT with zero slack in the throttle cable.
I have taken a caliper to the cable cam radius. It absolutely has a larger radius than any of the other ones we have here on hand that work.
You can take your apples to oranges comparison and Shut The **** UP with that ****.
I know that 2000 stock TB's were different than the 98 and 99's. I think it was the spring. I'm not sure if aftermarket TB's compensate for that change.
Last edited by wannafbody; 03-13-2018 at 09:07 PM.
I have built performance vehicles since 1986. I have built performance LS cars since 1999. The throttle bodies you have listed are not the same! I have a WARR TB right here. The WARR TB absolutely does not require 2-3/16" travel from CT to WOT. It is not a bullshit review. IT IS A FACT!
I clearly described the car but the only thing I left out is the fact that it has ASR (traction control). I can put my holley TB on it and get WOT. I put the Nick Williams I keep in stock on it and it has WOT. I put the WARR on it and it has WOT. All these other throttle bodies will go WOT with a reasonable amount of slack in the throttle cable and the JEGs and the no name Chinese clone I have here will not go WOT with zero slack in the throttle cable.
I have taken a caliper to the cable cam radius. It absolutely has a larger radius than any of the other ones we have here on hand that work.
You can take your apples to oranges comparison and Shut The **** UP with that ****.
If you knew so much you would know some years had different throttle cables.
If you knew so much you would know some years had different throttle cables.
OMG! so now your on the cable.
I'll tell ya what if you can't understand how a cable works you should just bow out. The short version: If the actuator (that would be the pedal or the ASR) travels 1-15/16" the cable will also travel 1-15/16 on the delivery end which is the throttle body. If you actually read the very descriptive explanation of the problem and could understand it (which apparently you can't) you would realize there have been 5 102mm throttle bodies on this car. 3 work just fine, 2 don't rotate over 70% blade.
I posted this experience thinking just maybe it would stop someone from throwing this garbage on their car and after driving it for a length of time realizing they didn't have WOT and were down 10 or more HP for the time they didn't know. Instead I have you, the mental midget wanting to argue facts I have clearly presented.
I can just make you a deal. How about you grab some "cables" for ASR cars that are different, come to my shop and prove me wrong for $1,000 on camera.
Last edited by NEokcTERROR; 03-13-2018 at 10:16 AM.
I am legitimately asking why your trying this TB, if you have already had others on that worked? Are you just trying different ones for the bang for the $, or?
I am legitimately asking why your trying this TB, if you have already had others on that worked? Are you just trying different ones for the bang for the $, or?
Originally Posted by G Atsma
So use one of the 3 that work fine and return the rest! Problem solved....
It isn't my car. It came in with this TB on it so I made every attempt to make it work.
It isn't my car. It came in with this TB on it so I made every attempt to make it work.
OK, it goes like this- "Mr. Customer, your TB can't be made to work correctly, but I have a few that WILL work, and will sell you one to solve the problem. You then may return your original one for a refund." See? Problem solved.
OK, it goes like this- "Mr. Customer, your TB can't be made to work correctly, but I have a few that WILL work, and will sell you one to solve the problem. You then may return your original one for a refund." See? Problem solved.
Yeah I get that and told him just about that verbatim. It made 450 @70% and 462 @100% holding it by hand through the pull. He didn't think it was worth it. I lowered the TPS to PE another 15% and lowered the trans WOT shift scalar to 60% and sent it.
The one you pictured has an IDENTICAL cam profile as a WARR. You are engaging the lower hole correct?
Yes lower hole and adjust the cable to barely allow it to return to the idle screw. The WARR I had here at the time wasn't identical to the no name or Jegs, but the no name and Jegs are identical to the .001".