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Old Apr 7, 2018 | 04:36 PM
  #221  
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What problems would a tore o ring on the boost valve cause ?

Old Apr 7, 2018 | 05:18 PM
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The Reverse signal comes in between those two o-rings; therefore you may not get much boost in Reverse, which might cause the reverse clutches to slip.
Did yours not come with that o-ring? Perhaps Sonnax would be kind enough to send you another one.
Old Apr 7, 2018 | 05:36 PM
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Originally Posted by mrvedit
The Reverse signal comes in between those two o-rings; therefore you may not get much boost in Reverse, which might cause the reverse clutches to slip.
Did yours not come with that o-ring? Perhaps Sonnax would be kind enough to send you another one.
Yes it did have one. This is about how much was missing.

Old Apr 9, 2018 | 11:38 AM
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Where's the rest of it...?
Old Apr 9, 2018 | 03:40 PM
  #225  
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Originally Posted by joecar
Where's the rest of it...?
That I don't know. Pulled the pump apart and did not find it anywhere.
Old Apr 9, 2018 | 05:58 PM
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I recall one of the pros here stating that a wear-ridge in the boost valve bore could cut the o-rings. So the missing part might have ended up in the pan and they hopefully the filter.
Old Apr 9, 2018 | 09:25 PM
  #227  
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Anyone have any thoughts on cryo treating stock input and output shafts?
Old Apr 9, 2018 | 09:57 PM
  #228  
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If I recall, one was more prone to failure than the other and was recommended for high hp applications, with the other being a good upgrade but perhaps gilding the lily in most cases. But I can't recall which one was which.
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Old Apr 10, 2018 | 07:19 AM
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Anyone have any thoughts on cryo treating stock input and output shafts?
Where do you want to get it done and at what cost? For me, its a cost vs gain comparison. If you're to the point where you're going to break a stock input shaft on a launch, you're going to have a hard time keeping a band and 3/4's in it anyway. It can be done...lots of corvette guys have no other option.
Old Apr 10, 2018 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
Where do you want to get it done and at what cost? For me, its a cost vs gain comparison. If you're to the point where you're going to break a stock input shaft on a launch, you're going to have a hard time keeping a band and 3/4's in it anyway. It can be done...lots of corvette guys have no other option.
I have a place local to me that does it but I have no idea what it cost or if they would even do it. I came across a thread that mentioned it but it did not go into detail then the wheels started turning and figured I would look into it.

I don't know what the breaking point is for the stock input and output shafts. I've ran 11.2's with 1.56 60's @122 mph and am probably looking at low 1.5x 60's this season at around 3500 lbs. with me in the car this season.

I won't be adding anymore power so if it's a non issue I won't worry about it but if it's something worth doing I figured what the hell..... depending on cost.
Old Apr 10, 2018 | 08:06 AM
  #231  
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Personally I wouldn't bother anywhere even in your ballpark of power.

Most places typically upgrade output shaft before input shaft also. But I don't think it's any issue for you
Old Apr 12, 2018 | 08:38 PM
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Thoughts on the TransGo 3-4 air bleed orifice or just leave the stock check ball in place? I will be drilling the 3rd apply feed hole bigger and car sees 7000 rpms.
Old Apr 12, 2018 | 08:52 PM
  #233  
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Originally Posted by 98CayenneT/A
Thoughts on the TransGo 3-4 air bleed orifice or just leave the stock check ball in place? I will be drilling the 3rd apply feed hole bigger and car sees 7000 rpms.
Think I found my answer in a previous thread posted by Mrvedit.

"I pulled the trans a year later to install a billet output shaft and checked the 3/4 clutch. The clearance had expanded to .110" !!
Granted I made daily WOT 4-2 downshifts which are particularly hard on the clutch.
Checking with Chuck @FLT, he thought that using the Transgo 3/4 "bleed orifice" instead of the stock check-ball capsule was my problem"
Old Apr 13, 2018 | 05:14 AM
  #234  
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Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
Blocking the 3-2 downshift valve is done in the hd2 kit with a tight wound spring, essientially a spacer. This commands max speed 3-2 downshifts.
Could I do this by getting a way stiff spring at the hardware store? If not how would I go about this?
Old Apr 13, 2018 | 07:18 AM
  #235  
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Blocking the valve could be done with a piece of copper pipe if you wanted (people used to block the 1-2 shift valve on a powerglide this way to avoid automatic upshifts...but that's a topic for another day haha). Just make sure it fits the bore and cut to length. That's all the tight wound spring is doing...being a spacer.
Old Apr 13, 2018 | 07:18 PM
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Installed half the springs in the 3-4 and forward/ overrun spring cages. Why does the forward/ overrun cage need to be so stiff especially considering the forwards are always on when in D
Old Apr 15, 2018 | 03:19 PM
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As MaroonMonster said, the output shaft is more likely to break than the input shaft due to the torque multiplication.
IMHO a common and often overlooked failure point is looseness between the input shaft and the input drum. Hence the Sonnax input drum reinforcement ring should be considered essential. IIRC you are doing that anyway.

Glad you found my post about leaving the input drum's check ball.
And blocking the 3-2 downshift valve shouldn't be too hard.
Old Apr 19, 2018 | 08:04 AM
  #238  
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Got my brand new oem reverse input drum from trutech. Should I swap out the babbitt bushings for teflon bushings or roll with the babbitt's ?
Old Apr 19, 2018 | 08:21 AM
  #239  
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New drum with new bushings. I would leave it alone.
My experience shows an incredibly low failure rate with even high mileage oem bushings.

I think there more risk of scoring the bore trying to remove them, or not driving them square when installing them than there is of stock failing.
Old Apr 19, 2018 | 08:34 AM
  #240  
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Originally Posted by MaroonMonsterLS1
New drum with new bushings. I would leave it alone.
My experience shows an incredibly low failure rate with even high mileage oem bushings.

I think there more risk of scoring the bore trying to remove them, or not driving them square when installing them than there is of stock failing.
Sounds good, ya, there was little to no ware on my previous reverse input drum with bronze bushings especially compared to other bushings that seem to be higher ware areas.

Thanks



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