When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Help: 3/4 clearance is off and what hole sizes for separator plate?
I built my 4l60e 3/4 clutch with a 7 friction setup. I used a .220 apply plate, .193 backing plate , 6x .076 kolene steels and 7x .080 HE frictions with the stock snap ring. I can barely get a .014 feeler gauge in. How did I mess this up? Everything I've read says it should have .030 -.035 clearance with this setup.
The other question is when drilling the separator plate in the trans go kit, basically every one it says to drill gets .093 bit. I've been reading and get all different hole size suggestions from different builders. I'm guessing it depends on your setup?
Its an ls1 , very mild truck cam and 11.1 compression. In a 3800# jeep with 4.88 gears and 38" tires. 4l60e , sonnax pinless accumulators, sonnax hd 2-3 valve, sonnax o-ring end plugs, transgo hd sep plate and the transgo 4l60e shift kit. With stock converter.
Any suggestions on hole sizes in separator plate for my setup?
Replace some of the .080 friction with .062 frictions to get around .030 to .040 clearance. Set band clearance to around .060. Drill the 3rd clutch feed hole to .110.
I took the clutches and steels out of the 3/4 and measured everything. Turns out the Kolene steels are .080 thick instead of the .076 I ordered. That's .024 loss in clearance.
Replace some of the .080 friction with .062 frictions to get around .030 to .040 clearance. Set band clearance to around .060. Drill the 3rd clutch feed hole to .110.
Whats the best place to place the thinner steels?
Middleof the pack? Bottom? Top?
Better to have thicker steels and a thinner friction than a thicker friction and thinner steel
IMO
The friction size even matter? Its just a friction on a surface.
why there are thick and slim frictions anyway? Why not using the thinnest friction with the thickest steels and sonnax backing plate kit to keep the pack straight when it apply?
The friction size even matter? Its just a friction on a surface.
why there are thick and slim frictions anyway? Why not using the thinnest friction with the thickest steels and sonnax backing plate kit to keep the pack straight when it apply?
I've been saying this for many years
you've oversimplified...and there are instances where a thicker friction could be worthwhile
but in the 4l60e...the .065 frictions and thickest steels available is the best combination IMO
Thanks again. Went to Transtar and picked up 2 .067 HE frictions. This should get me back in the the .030 to .040 range.
Excuse my scribble but I put up a pic of the TG recommended plate hole enlargements. And marked the ones with the sizes that differ. Does this look correct?
Sorry that I have not been able to be on the Forum recently.
Overall Friction thickness benefits come from 2 different factors:
-Thicker Friction-Material/ Lining slightly increases longevity against wear and tear.
-Thicker Core slightly increases heat dissipation/ resistance to warping.
Sorry that I have not been able to be on the Forum recently.
Overall Friction thickness benefits come from 2 different factors:
-Thicker Friction-Material/ Lining slightly increases longevity against wear and tear.
-Thicker Core slightly increases heat dissipation/ resistance to warping.
First off...good to have you back
second off...thicker core is more resistant to warping, but you don't want to trade a thicker friction core for thinner steel plates. in virtually any setup
Which I bet we are in agreeance on
The 2nd hole from bottom left that says if plate has this hole drill .093 you marked as leave alone. Drill that hole to .093.
I can't make out your writing for the 1-2 shift but with stock torque converter drill .070 to .082.
Everything else looks good to me. Maybe MaroonMonster or vorteciroc may want you step in and advise something different.
second off...thicker core is more resistant to warping, but you don't want to trade a thicker friction core for thinner steel plates. in virtually any setup
Which I bet we are in agreeance on
Yes, vorteciroc welcome back. You were sorely missed.
second off...thicker core is more resistant to warping, but you don't want to trade a thicker friction core for thinner steel plates. in virtually any setup
Which I bet we are in agreeance on
The 2nd hole from bottom left that says if plate has this hole drill .093 you marked as leave alone. Drill that hole to .093.
I can't make out your writing for the 1-2 shift but with stock torque converter drill .070 to .082.
Everything else looks good to me. Maybe MaroonMonster or vorteciroc may want you step in and advise something different.
Sorry for the terrible writing. I have the 1-2 labeled .078
A .067 friction in place of an .080 got me to .031 clearance on 3-4 clutches.
I have a TG .500 boost valve , sonnax hd 2-3 valve, the sonnax pinless accumulators for the 1-2 and forward. I blocked the hole in the 3-4th accumulator and leaving out the guts. I've blocked the 3-2 valves in the valve body as well. I'm using the transgo HD separator plate and sk4l60e shift kit. I've already done alot of reading on what springs to use with the pinless accumulators. I also pressed out the input shaft from the drum and reinstalled with 620 green loctite. Also using a Corvette servo and setting it up as I've seen recommended on this forum.
I'm waiting on the o-ring end plugs to come in.
Here is a better pic of my current separator plate holes.
Last edited by cantbuytime79; Mar 6, 2022 at 10:49 AM.
Reason: Update
Better to have thicker steels and a thinner friction than a thicker friction and thinner steel
IMO
I'm finishing up a mild basically stock trans for my 11 second Camaro that Im shifting at 7k. I went for the standard summit racing kit that comes with the 4L65e HEG 0.065-67" frictions (7) and 0.095" steels (6). I'll give feedback when I get it in the car and working properly it's my first trans build.
I'd like to learn more about the HEG friction material but I haven't found much writing about it
I have a TG .500 boost valve , sonnax hd 2-3 valve, the sonnax pinless accumulators for the 1-2 and forward. I blocked the hole in the 3-4th accumulator and leaving out the guts. I've blocked the 3-2 valves in the valve body as well. I'm using the transgo HD separator plate and sk4l60e shift kit. I've already done alot of reading on what springs to use with the pinless accumulators. I also pressed out the input shaft from the drum and reinstalled with 620 green loctite. Also using a Corvette servo and setting it up as I've seen recommended on this forum.
I'm waiting on the o-ring end plugs to come in.
Here is a better pic of my current separator plate holes.