to give you an idea, here is my cam but on a 110+4

 

I run a similar cam grind, 228/232 111lsa. My car bucks a little in the 1500rpm but it comes with the territory. With "basically" stock 243 castings, ls6 intake, and stock tb it made 424rwhp and 397tq. That was in 93 degree heat, 85% humidity, 2783ft DA. Its all in the tune up my man. Luckily it only took three pulls to zero mine in.

 

that must have been on a dyno jet????

 

Most likely. that's probably right at 400hp on a mustang dyno which is strong for a cam only car (with stock 243 heads).

 

see my sig with that cam. Stock Heads, LS6 Intake and P&P TB

 

That was through a 9inch also. Yes, I believe it was a dynojet. Carolinaautomasters.

 

More then likely you need a good SD tune. Then plug the MAF back in and adjust as ness.

 

Would a speed density tune help that much?? I am curious about converting my car over to that. Sorry dont mean to threadjack.

 

The problem won't be solved by a SD tune.

The solution is in tweaking the timing and the IAC. The throttle cracker table and the low airflow/low rpm timing need to be adjusted for the cam to drive 'like stock' again.

THE COMMON MISCONCEPTION IS THAT IT DOESN'T HAVE ENOUGH TIMING. In truth, it has too much timing. After dialing in the AFR, I dropped my low airflow and idle timing and I have virtually no bucking anymore. I also had to zero out the throttle cracker table for the 1600 and 1000 rpm rows. By doing that, the car will decelerate and hold a constant speed from 1100rpm on up....and that's on a 232/238 112 LSA cam (tons of overlap).

Details of what I did and what some of my tables look like can be found over at EFI Live's forums in my sticky:

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread.php?t=4661

 

Thanks man.

 

Very interesting. Would that also take care of the lack of power below 3100rpm, or is it something else? The car actually feels less powerful under 3000rpm than it did with bolt ons and no tune. Can't be right.

 

Ideally, this cam should feel roughly the same as a stock bolt-ons car below 3000rpms assuming your fueling is close. If it doesn't, you could try increasing the timing slightly at part throttle and keep an eye out for KR. When I say this, I'm mainly talking in the region above 1800rpms. At or below that is when you want to see timing at or below stock.

You have to understand that the cam is going to move your torque curve around. For example, my setup (P&P 241's and 232/238 .595/.605 112LSA) makes 330+ ft/lbs from 3100~6700rpms and peaks at only 390ft/lbs right around 5000rpms. It's not exactly the same as the cam in this thread. But, there shouldn't be too much difference. Compared to a typical bolt-ons car that makes 340ft/lbs before 4400rpms, it's not that great of a difference. However, the design of the cam is for more high-end power/torque. That's why it peaks ~50ft/lbs and 700rpms higher. So, if you're looking for kick-in-the-pants, low end, get the f*ck out of the way kind of power, you picked the wrong mod (shoulda went supercharger).

 

I ran a best of 13.2 at 112 last night. Friend managed a 12.9 at 115. It's really hard to launch with the MX's. It either spins em or bogs hard. I'm currently looking for a set of rear wheels for track use. If I break the rear it'll be an excuse to buy a 9", right? Car hauls when it gets moving!