eagle ls1 forged crankshaft or callies compstar crankshaft..for a 408 stroker which one would you choose and why?

 

they are both about the same crankshaft-i think it just comes down to preference,we have used eagle stuff with great sucess up to 1500hp

 

The Compstar crank has keyway cut in the crank for a keyed front pulley. The Eagle does not!

Also the pilot bushing hole is more precise on the Compstar.

 

We have a sale on the K1 Technologies line. These cranks are holding up great in high horsepower applications. Here is a link to the sale on our website :http://weberracing.net/Engine-Type-G...184/index.html.

If you just need the crank and already have the other parts, shoot me a PM and I can get you pricing on the crank alone.

Thanks,
Leo

 

i had heard of some problems with the pilot bushing in the eagle cranks, that is what is in my engine (currently in progess) so i dont know if mine will be an issue. If it is what is the remedy??

 

I think the machining on the callies piece is way better. That is why I am running one in my car.

 

I am running a compstar. Also running compstart in our other combo putting 900 to the wheels.

 

compstar

 

We use eagle in a handful of things we build. I personally LOVE eagle stuff. As above posted, the Eagle crank will handle just about anything your ready to throw at it. For your 408 a Eagle 4340 crank will work just fine. Call me if need be we have plenty in stock.

-Marcus

 

We have run both cranks with great success. I think more than anything it comes down to a personal preference and going with a well known product. We run Eagle cranks in probably 70% of the motors we build. We have made over 1200 HP with both and have never had a failure from either one. Feel free to give us a call if you have any questions or what way you decide to go. We have both on the shelf and can get you setup with smokin' deal!

 

So, does it matter about the keyway in the crank? Few other guys say they run the Eagles with no problems, so...

edit: WOW just realized I bumped a three year old thread. Must have been google searching when I came across this one. Sorry guys, newb at work here...

 

only issue i had with a eagle crank was the rear freeze plug leaking oil and trashed a clutch... new freeze plug and some jb weld and i was good to go...

 

So there is no need for the woodruff key then? That seems really odd to me. How do you know your timing? Does the damper just not move on the crank without the keys?

 

only reason ur really gonna need a woodruff key is in a blower application correct me if i am wrong guys... other then that the only thing ur turning is ur accessories

 

Well I am definitely a total newb to LSX engines but... Typically the crank damper needs to stay aligned with the crank shaft. If it is allowed to spin on the snout, then it would be impossible for the damper to absorb torsional vibration as it would just spin instead of dampen.

Now the newb part... How the hell do you check timing if your damper is allowed to spin separate from the crank? That would also mean you could put it on at any degree orientation, for example, your #1 could be at TDC, but you put your damper on with the number one mark at say... 48 degrees. I'm confused on this part. This is from my lack of experience with the LSX thus far.

 

You dont check the timing from the crank damper on the LS1's , The timing is controlled from the reluctor ring and crank sensor & cam sensor. You need a hand held controller to read the timing, Now if you want to put the crank on TDC and make you a timing mark on the damper and mount you a marker on the cover and pin the damper, then you could use a timing light to read it.

 

The LS1 style cranks has a tapered snout and the damper bolt is torqued like a 250 ft lbs. So it would take a lot to spin the damper,That why force induction guys pin the damper, because it drives the blower witch make a lot of torque quick and can slip the damper on the crank.

 

my eagle crank came with a woodruff key if i recall correctly

 

They may have updated them since the first posts in 2008 and put a woodruff key in.

 

I could swear, mine did too, I bought in 2006, but I just pulled the harmonic, to put on an ati balancer on, and I have no key way... I could swear to god, I had a key way on my crank. It is supposed to be 4 inch. I am scared the machine shop did a switch on me. I need to confirm this. The numbers on my nose is 417 stamped in. I am really nervous now.