When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
If you wanna minimize rear steer in turns - equal height front/rear spring eyes. Draw diagrams - if rear higher than front eye (usual case), when the body rolls the low side of the rear end pushes forward and the high side pushes to the back of the car effectively “turning” the rear end. Equal height eyes eliminates that. ‘Course, keep eye on pinion angle when making changes.
Ok, so now I am going back and forth on a day to day level. I am realizing the amount of measuring and work I need to do to setup the leaf springs is about the same as a parallel 4-link, or triangulated 4-link.
What I like about the parallel 4-link is if I don't setup the Instant Center and Anti-Squat right, I have A TON of adjustment with all the holes. With the triangulated 4 -link it looks like all the kits only have 1 hole and you either get it or you don't. That's my biggest fear with the triangulated 4-link.
Thoughts? Is there a triangulated 4-link kit that has a bunch of adjustment?
This might sound crazy, but can I cut a parallel 4-link setup into 2 and make it an adjustable triangulated 4-link? Pic of that incoming.
So it's been a long time. Been working in China a lot and flying/cold temps/looking for houses has really taken most of my time.
I did get a few days in where I have been working on the rear end.
I finished the step notch in the back end, cut about 2 feet off the frame and started working on the 4-link. I decided to go with a triangulated 4-link. Hopefully it works and I get get it dialed in.
Excuse the welds. I am by no means a pro, but they have good penetration so they should be pretty good.
I also ordered the turbo (78/75), Intercooler, and a few other things for the engine. although far down the road, they would a pretty good deal so I grabbed them now.
I am trying to learn as much as I can about how to setup the triangulated 4-link but there isn't really a bunch of info in 1 area... only really high level guidelines. Once I compile it all, ill see what I think will work best for me and just do it.
My biggest issue is since the rod isn't close to being done, it's hard to estimate the CG and other things. I also don't have scales (and can't bring it to someone) so that makes it even harder. I am going to guess weights by a lot of adding up small parts and then use the center of the cam shaft as the CG height. I'll aiming for a low and neutral IC as to bring me as close to 100% anti-squat as I can. My guess is since I have almost no weight in the rear I might want more than 100% so I can transfer some of that weight. I won't really have to worry about tire shake or wheelies as this won't be over 650whp to start.
Front suspension:
I found 205/40/R16 for my front tires... I think they look awesome and lowered the front a lot. I then cut my springs 1.25 coils and found the perfect ride height. I still have plenty of coil left. It definitely won't ride like the factory but I don't think it's going to ride horrible. We shall see. The low profiles might be a little too low, but w/e. I did the front suspension for about $40 so I can always go back and invest more into it if it really isn't what I am looking for/
I also have to update my costs as I have spent some $$
I'll tell you how I set up my triangle 4 bar (no expert) but it really works for me. The lower bars should be parallel to the ground and the uppers run downhill as much as space will allow. By your pictures it should be about right. I quit using coilovers because of cost and difficulty adjusting. Went with air bags on two build and very happy with the results. Adjust at the press of a button and the ride isn't any different than sprung suspension. You will like the triangle 4 bar, set right and the tires try to rotate the earth.
I'll tell you how I set up my triangle 4 bar (no expert) but it really works for me. The lower bars should be parallel to the ground and the uppers run downhill as much as space will allow. By your pictures it should be about right. I quit using coilovers because of cost and difficulty adjusting. Went with air bags on two build and very happy with the results. Adjust at the press of a button and the ride isn't any different than sprung suspension. You will like the triangle 4 bar, set right and the tires try to rotate the earth.
Awesome. Thank you. Info like this is much needed.
Lowers:
Looking from the side - parallel (or slightly up maybe 1-2 degrees at most) to the ground. I want to keep my IC low and far but not under the Neutral line by a lot.
Looking from the top - parallel with the frame.
Uppers:
Looking from the side - angles down (maybe 5-7 degrees) to reach a 50"-60" IC and hopefully near the neural line/100% squat line.
Looking from the top - They will be 40 degrees from the center of the car (80 degrees total)
I think this puts me in the general bar park of a good setup.
I am going to tack weld the axle in the right spot with some scrap to ensure I keep the pinion angle and other things correct.
This thing is f***ing awesome, love the idea of an old body on a newer chassis. Subscribed.
Thank you. Fortunately / Unfortunately I bought a new house so the project is on a pause for a few weeks till I can fully move in and get the new shop together. Below is a pic of the toy shop (separate from the other garages attached to the house).
Still getting the shop up and running but I finally have everything at the new house.
I did sell the S-10 frame and motorcycle engine I had so the price sheet will be updated.
Work that still needs to be done:
Body/Frame
- Finish welding 12 point cage
- Rear mounted radiator, mounts, and hosing
- Rear suspension cross member and shocks
- Final Install of Cab and Bed
- Brakes
Looking at the fuel system to find deals since it's about that time of the year.
I know this is way overkill and the stock rails are fine for 600whp, but too many times I have had fuel delivery issues due to 1 or 2 items being restrictive. My goal is to have a fuel system that can be upgraded to handle the need of 6.0 with a bigger turbo and 210's. Later on I can add another Walbro 450 (or 2) and I am good to go.
I also didn't want to do a cross over since I fear the second rail could run low pressure/leaner when on full power.
Finished 90% of the cage (road worthy) so I have started to work on interior has that has been a stopping point of a lot of other work.
Finished the floor structure, firewall structure, and pedal assembly. I also have finished the firewall and have started to work on the transmission tunnel, floor, and side panels.
I should be getting in seats/harnesses today. This will allow me to finalize the tunnel, steering column support, pedals, floor, and some interior metal work. I bought cheap ($180) Jegs seats... I am questioning them, but for so cheap it's worth a try. My goal will be to get Sparco FX1 fixed backed but if these work then I am happy. They are fake leather which really won't go with everything but we shall see.
I also bought a FPR, rails, -8AN fuel lines, 80e flexplate spacer, and a few other odds and ends to complete some low hanging fruit.
Getting more and more excited as the engine/performance work is really what I wanted to work on but the build has escalated.
I AM NOT DEAD!!!! and neither is the build... I have been doing a lot of traveling, bought a new house, and had a lot of personal life changes. I have been working on this but mostly posting on FB since its a lot easier to post pics and "go live"
Old pic but it shows the turbo routing.
As above, it has all the wiring, coils, fuel, and has been started. Just working on the rear mounted Rad now.
Note: This is the first time I have ever TIG'd and messed with aluminum so don't beat me up too bad. I did about 10" of a practice "bead" and started on the project. LOL.
12-14-2017, 12:36 PM
