9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

I made a thread few months back about my camshaft,

416 lsx twin 67/66, 4l80e, yank 3400stall, 10.38 comp. 6bolt genx 255 heads holley low pro intake,
My cam is custom grind solid roller 252 260 699 701 116 staight up.

I was having major issues getting he car to spool on tbrake, after adv the cam shaft 6deg i can finally get the car to leave on 8psi on tbrake, went to the track this last sat and car mustered out 9.18 @ 150mph 28psi of boost on the big end. car still very lazy down low 6000rpm up she moves. i still believe cam is way to big.. does anybody disagree?
I have tuned my own car for the last 6yrs, afr is spot on timing set at 17deg on e85... my car went 8.43 at 163 last yr with alot smaller cam and cubic inch same boost level.. do i throw this cam out and start over??
thanks guys let me know your thoughts

hellbents-10

Should light those little turbos up no problem. I would put my money into a converter first.

Yes it will make more torque with less duration and higher DCR but the tuning window under power will get smaller.

Cal's SBF is similar in size compression and runner volume with more cam and 83/96s and it lights them up no problem.

Lawhead

iTrader: (14)

I'd get with them and see what they have to say

yenkomike

iTrader: (2)

something is way off id start with the basics and confirm timing as well as cam timing. im no cam expert but that thing is 400hp low. jmho.

3pedals

iTrader: (3)

Agree with the above, my 364 lights up twin 66's at 3000rpm part throttle

Game ova

The latter part of your post is the answer. If the car was faster with less motor, you then add cubes and change cams.... Car loses over half a second and 13 mph. If it was me, id either throw the cam in the trash, or sell it... and go with what I KNOW works.

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

Once the car gets out few hundred feet the car pulls pretty damn hard. i spin the engine to 7700 as of right now
shift extension on converter is damn near 1000rpm drop lil tight yes but hoping the extra power whould loosen that up a little,

I was hoping the car would run damn near 7s on this cubic inch and the same boost level as last yr with the smaller engine

tblentrprz

Where is the ICL right now (as measured)? Any idea what ICL reveals peak cranking compression?

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

Advancing the cam 6deg increased from 175psi of cranking comp. to 235psi. installed at 109

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

3pedals

iTrader: (3)

Knock 10* out of that cam on both sides

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

thanks for the inputs guys. Going to talk to another cam guy

LilJohn

My vote is converter.... or the tuneup.

The cam isn't too big.

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

LILjohn I believe the converter will help on the low end but afr was spot on on the big end and the cars only trapping 150 at the same boost level as of last yr smaller cubes, thanks for your input just baffled the car drop 1/2sec with alot more engine

svslow

AFR doesn't really have much to do with how the converter is coupling at the track. Unless you are saying it didn't need anymore fuel compared to last year. If you added more power and the car is not picking up, I would also think there is a converter problem. Do you have any converter slip data?

tblentrprz

Verified ignition timing? How are you identifying peak ignition timing, plugs, mph, etc?

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

I scanned the last 2 runs i will look at the data. i took fuel away from tune for new engine combo same injectors same base pressure same fuel, i will check ignition timing with light this weekend

9sectruck

iTrader: (9)

i looked over the scan and calculated on Wallace calculator 4.1% converter slip, single disc not locked up. looked back from old tune to new tune 365 to 416 i have taken out a ton of fuel. if i new how to screen shot ve table its close to 41% less fuel

MY_2K_Z

iTrader: (1)

Something is seriously wrong of it's consuming 41% less fuel.

svslow

Oh yeah. I would triple check the cam and ignition timing.