tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

(cross-posted to give all the fbodys some love)

We have sold a (quite) few new battery relocation kits, and we totally forgot to post about them! Here is the link (with generic picture. will be updated soon) We will be adding the options (below) soon if you want any of them please call in or email rpmspeedtech@gmail.com WS6Store is picking up where the aftermarket left off and are making a direct fit battery relocation kit for 93-02 fbodys. THATS RIGHT WE INCLUDED THE LT1 CARS! The only main difference is the power distribution block on the LT1 cars and the alternator location, plus they are becoming very popular to LS swap, so the carryover is easy with just a few different cable assemblies due to the modular design. We are also offering 2 separate alternator wire lengths as some are either running a turbo kit with relocated alternator or just a relocated alternator in general, normally to the passenger side top. This way you dont have to cut down the cable to make a std kit work. We have made some changes to the kit as you would expect from other companies that are now discontinued. Some for company preference, some for ease of install, and some for safety. Normally, the other kits specified "ONLY DRY CELL BATTERIES" but did not express why. Most told us that they thought it was because in case of an accident, but GM uses batteries in cars/suvs under their seats without issue. The main reason is battery offgas venting. We have 2 solutions available for that. One is a std universal vent kit for batteries that have the small round hole for external vent, but some batteries have the oval vent port or dual ports to vent. We will have Options available for both. We decided to use a fusible link on the alternator wire due to the frequent issues we have seen with alternator failure and avoiding issues with the battery inside the car that could lead to serious cosmetic/structural/safety issues. It is property sized at 8ga for the 4ga wire we use. The immediate question after that is "why use 4ga wire? my buddy uses 00 welding cable for his". There are many reasons why, but the main reason being, it is such a short run of the alternator cable, that such a large Gauge is not necessary.

Which leads us to...Our kit includes a 3 lug power distribution block and separate ground distribution block. Not only does this help make for a modular design, but it also enables simplified routing under the hood of power and ground feeds for aftermarket PCMs/fans/pumps etc. This way you can keep everything simple without having to use the starter or alternator or fuse box as a distribution block also. We have 2ga power and ground cables that run inside the passenger cabin, out the firewall to the right of the stock pcm location (through the included grommets)

then to the power distribution blocks mounted as pictured.

Then, power side, 4ga cable to the alternator with fusible link wire, 4ga to starter, and 4ga to fuse box. These will follow the normal routes across the k member.

On the ground side, there is a separate ground wire to use on off negative terminal to ground in rear body of car, then 2ga to the front to dist block, 4ga to ground stud right by where we recommend mounting the blocks, 4ga to the engine, and 4ga from engine to frame/body. All the cables come labelled to allow easy installation. We will be making a Vector diagram layout of the power wire schematic and ground wire schematic also in the next few days.

Power kit

Ground kit (terminals not yet crimped on the engine ground wire in picture)

Normally they will come with a std quick disconnect terminal that goes on the battery positive cable.

Simply unscrew the green connection and power is cut. Screw back in for power. We can include the Taylor disconnect switch (with or without push rod) for extra cost or we will also offer a keyless remote disconnect option also.

We do not have an option for mounting the taylor switch, that is up to the customer. We do not recommend that at all for daily driven vehicles as it can become a safety issue. They are required for NHRA Safety rules, so if you are looking at using these for a true race car at a track that uses or enforces NHRA rules, you will need them. Although in that case we recommend adding the push rod as its a much simpler install and less invasive. We understand most are using this to make room under the hood for turbo kits etc, and would only need just a simple disconnect, or even the remote option, which is why we offer a variety.

We also have optional (black) silicon/fiberglass woven heat sleeve for the starter and/or alternator cables. Pictured here on the starter wire before we 90* bend the terminal to fit starter lug

It will also include high temp Tesa heat tape to secure the sleeve in place, one piece for each end of the sleeve. You will be able to specify length also, so make sure you measure correctly there. It will be sold by the foot only.

They are available with or without the BMR Battery box.

We do recommend top post batteries as that is what the system is designed for.

DualQuadDave

iTrader: (6)

I have a request, can you reproduce the HD ground wire kits that used to be available for TBSS's? Those worked well, but the guy doing them stopped a long time back. I think there is a good size market for them.

tech@WS6store

iTrader: (2)

Do you have a link?