Cedonulli

Bought a 95 bird convert with the smaller V6. Low power compared to the 3.6 but got it with 80,000 and new tires and wheels and the top works! I immediately lost the keys so its been setting THREE years in driveway. Just found the key code and had a new lock cyl and keys made. HOLY CATS that was something to pull wheel and change it all by my 70 year old self in a wheel chair, lol. I had only driven it about 10 miles from where I bought it to my home and all seemed to work except when I put the drivers window down it didnt come up. Then it did--then it didnt again. I didnt think much of that then. So now--- 1. Every time I connect the battery, the lights pop up--not on but up. The drivers window wont work., Small lights intermittently work then don't. Blinkers sometimes work then don't. Its like it has a ghost in it. It wont start but no anti theft lights come on--all looks normal on the dash. The fuel is three years old LOL so Im guessing thats why and am syphoning the fuel out to replace it. The boogers dont like syphon tubes. Why is the system acting all buggy? I know the newer ones can have a BCM bad but do these 95s?? Can they cause these electrical problems?

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

All of these are normal F-Body problems. For a car sitting for a long time, its not surprising that you will see them all at once. Your BCM is not the issue. There are many threads all over this site that you can search for and read up on these issues.

The window motors are notorious for failing. There is a thermal cutoff switch in the motor that goes bad often and this is how it behaves when that component goes bad. (The whole motor needs to be replaced.) Be sure to read up on the shbox method and look at the instructions on the shbox web site for replacing the window motor and you will save yourself a ton of agony and grief.

This is a sign of stripped gears in the headlight motors. You may want to fully test those out.

Common for a ground or switch problem.

The flasher is mechanical and probably bad. They don't like sitting. There are two separate flashers. One for the hazards and one for the turn signals.

If you aren't getting any clicking or cranking, you could have a bad relay. (Assuming you are getting normal power and accessories come up when you turn the key.)

NC01TA

^^^ Nailed it. These were simply the past owner's issues that went ignored. You bought those issues plus the 3 years of sitting did not help. If those issues were ignored I bet every fluid needs to be changed as well.
The good news out of this is that you should be good to go after laying out a little more money. A shop will probably be the best way to go in your situation with the stripped headlight gears being the priciest of the repairs (mostly labor).

Cedonulli

Thanks folks. Engine turns over but wont start---I did try starting fluid and it ALMOST caught several times. Im assuming I flooded it cranking so much. 'Almost starting' w fluid makes me feel that its 3 year old fuel, lol. At least in trying to kick over it means my stupid anti theft system isnt screwed up. It was 1/4 full of gas, tried to suck it out of tank but only got a tiny tube in it. We loaded up new gas to about half full, hoping it would dilute the bad and maybe start. Bad Idea I guess. Re lights, they go up w no bad gear noise. they just wont go down period, have to manually crank em down. Any power, including hooking up a disconnected battery, make em raise?? Ill look through the columns but actually have many spare entire light assemblies from wrecking yard birds. Seems to be electrical more than the gears. WOW that shbox site--wish Id known about that long ago---thanks.
Fun fact: I opened the air filter box and discovered it had been used as rat home. Paper element almost fully chewed away, small plastic bags, trash, papers, leaves, and hair all inside the box. Thank God we had not been able to start it or all that would have been sucked into intake. Thank God. As it is, I wonder if just cranking it drew anything in but we found nothing in the intake pipes between the airbox and the manifold. I made huge mistake letting this thing sit. Tires were new---now cracked and look probably flat spotted. Engine compartment looked new and now anything of soft metal like intake manifold turned white and rough. It had been covered though the entire time though. Pulleys rusted. Rotors rusted bad. I cost myself a ton of money. Was in wheel chair though and couldnt help some of it. Regarding what was said in answer about fluids---Im going to replace that 3 year oil too---never should have considered trying to start it on that. Thanks again guys.
OH! In ending this, I just realized it may not be starting due to bad fuel pump!!! Ive had to replace those dammmed things in my other birds.

RPM WS6

iTrader: (3)

That would be my guess. Leaving it sit for several years with only 1/4 tank (presumably E10 fuel), and with a fuel pump that was probably already old with a bunch of miles, usually results in this sort of problem. Even more so when the storage environment was obviously not dry (based on the rotor and engine bay rust & aluminum corrosion).

It's easy enough to check fuel pressure with the key on (pump primed), that would be my first test before doing anything else.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

This could also be a big part of your problem. The engine needs to breathe and you can't have any of this stuff in the combustion chamber. It may be worth taking the plugs out and having a look. You can get a desent scope/camera that will give you a view of your cylinders on Amazon for $20. Hooks right up to a cel phone.

wssix99

iTrader: (5)

There is a headlight module and this is the position it leaves us in when it detects an issue. You could unplug the motor and manually give it power, but that would be more effort than a manual crank.

Cedonulli

Ohh I had no idea---thanks much!

01WS6/tamu

iTrader: (37)

95's dont have a BCM everything on it is fairly old time gm stuff. windows are controlled by switch only door locks by keyless module if it has it, headlights when they act like that a lot of the time is a stripped drive gear in motor. Passlock is controlled by the passlock module. now just because the key cut works does not mean the resistor in the key is correct to allow it to start. Your best bet on that one is a locksmith they can look up the correct key cut and sometimes the resistor code. If resistor code is incorrect it will not allow fuel I do not remeber what the icon in the cluster for my 95 looked like to notify you of the passlock status during crank. I think it said security or theft if my memory is correct. Basics are check fuel pressure, check spark, use a noid light and see if it pulses during crank to verify if the pcm is or is not enabling the injectors.

That car is old school trouble tree and a test light and dvom for everything in it.