Like the title says I'm looking for a 212/218 cam with lift in the .560-.580 range. I was sure that I had checked the sloppy mechanic stage 2 E1840P and already ordered it to find out it's a 228/230 :[

Because things are always on a budget I'm willing to go with the sloppy mechanics brand if they have something in that price range with high lift.

I wish I was more of a writer and can explain these things better, I hope somebody understands me.

 

This is going in my full size 6.0 1500 that tows my fifth wheel when it's time to escape hurricanes on the Texas coast but also drives me to school everyday 2 hours both ways. I had been running a 210/230 LS7 cam and the thing ripped for nearly a year before I got bored recently and threw in a TSP 218/224 and the truck felt like it lost all its power down low. After running it for a month I got bored and put the LS7 cam back in just to compare and it woke right back up in the low end and I know it could do better. I just want a bit more lift with not such a wide LSA and long exhaust duration without killing the bank.

I would like to get it back together as our main worries around here are flooding not even the hurricanes. Yeah I know I chose a good time to get into this mess. I just dont have the time to get online to all my favorite sites and write build blogs like its my main hobby I wish I had the time... I thought I would have the time to learn how to tune while going to school boy was I high. I should just quit everything and retire like the VA told me to but sometimes we just don't know how to quit lol

 

Not to be an ***; butt, It Is What It Is. The people that make those things don't give em away.

Either ya want it, or ya don't. Decide which you are.

That said, if you're not in a hurry, watch auction sites, Amazon return sites, the classifieds here, etc., and "hope" (the LEAST effective business plan in existence) that one shows up. Otherwise, It Is What It Is. Buy it or ... don't.

 

I get that much man. I'm not a naive crater hole full of question. I just know that you guys know where to get the stuff. I have scored a spotless set LS7 lifters for 60$ wit the trays because someone helped me when I asked. Even the 50# injectors I sourced for 50$ thanksto the guys on Hptuners. I know someone here jus might have that used cam I am looking for so thanks for the motivation I guess?

There are so many dam cams online when it comes to the cheap ones and some of them are great and you guys are the ones to ask before I jump into a hole that I shouldn't.


Like this one. I don't need the springs and seals. I would go for just the cam if I could with some reassurance

 

What would you put in a 2008 1500 4x4 6.0 4l70 stock converter with 4.10 rear to have the best jump off the line?

I might just go with another LS7 cam and search for some 1.8 rockers should have bought the ones Gatsma had for 150 lol

 

Best jump off the line with stock converter will be the stock cam......

For more performance passed 3000 or so I would do the Truck Norris cam or I have also had GREAT results with the lsxceleration 2.1 NSR cam. This is the cam I would go with if having to drive the truck a ton just to keep the valvetrain wear down.
The summit stage 2 drop in truck cam is also pretty much the same

the https://www.lsxceleration.com/lsxcel...xoCAmQQAvD_BwE

 

There is no way your going to tell me that a stock dod low lift (.420-.480?) cam will outperform a cam that has .100 more lift even with vvt and whats up with that trash link you posted. Marketing trash?

 

might look into the richard holdender low buck truck cam. i think he sells it for $179. search for it on youtube, then there's an email address to order it in the video

 

Just wasted 20 minutes of my day looking for the link on youtube or anything on google :-/

 

No aftermarket cam is gonna have MORE power than a near stock cam OFF IDLE, which is what you asked.

You seem very educated so pick your own crap and stop asking people who know nothing.

 

buy cheapest camshaft

no difference from brand name

why is engine dead

 

Summit 8728R1
212/218 with a 110 LSA. $320 when not on sale.

 

At what point in the power curve does the less advanced duration of the intake and exhaust start to trade off torque for horsepower with these less advanced stock cams with low lift?

When I got into tuning two years ago and went from a mail order tune that deleted all the torque limiting effects in my E38 ECM And also got the DOD turned off at the same time but retained the stock cam in my truck it had nowhere near the punch off the line compared to the 210/230 LS7 cam I speak so highly of I don't know the exact timing of my stock 6.0 cam but I know it was in the margin of 200-210 with lift in the .460'ish range, I haven't looked at that specific stock spec in quite some time so I cant be sure but there is no way that stock cam was faster than the ls7 cam with the same converter.

 

I had a really good laugh to myself right now thinking about all these threads with people wanting to do high speed timed cams with high stall converters and yet so much more attention than a guy that's trying to do something simple and not so Extra.

Maybe one of you guys has an LS6 cam you'd like to sell?!!!!

 

I have an LS1 cam I just pulled out that I probably don't need.

I have a friend who just pulled out a good used 218/224 cam I'm sure he'd be willing to sell.

 

Yes but with that 218/224 how can I expect to make low end torque with a stock converter? I am starting to get interested in a cam like the Torkinator that has low advertised timing close to stock and the higher lift I want I just don't know what to expect out of it, I can't find any dynos results to back up all the hype.

I know it is hard to make great improvements on low end torque especially when I don't want to lose the stock converter just yet. I think I might just get my 832 heads milled to the max and go 3/7 layers instead of my usual 4/7 but I have to get rid of my long exhaust duration no doubt.

I still have a good LS7 cam to put back in if need be. Hell I still have a new BTR S2V2 NSR I never installed, I just don't think the .480 lift will cut it compared to the .563 lift from the LS7/9 cam I have been running

 

I have money saved up for projects that I do on the side and even a transmission business that I started recently so I don't like spending my savings right now. But I have to ask about an idea that I had after seeing all of these rear-mounted turbo setups in cars. It would be so easy for me to mount a fat Garrett 600 two feet behind the y pipe crossover underneath my chassis of my truck. It would have a long charge runner and people have already done the math that it only takes a little bit longer to fill that extra volume of boost. It would be a tight fit running the charge pipe back to the intake but I'm sure I could manage it. With the right size turbo I could get the torque that I wanted at a lower RPM maybe???

 

Sure.

The cost of a cam, or more exactly the cost difference between mail-ordering one and waiting for one to "appear" at a discount from someone else's failed project or other intellectual malfunction, would completely disappear into the background noise of all that.

Let alone, the cost of starting up a business.

Sounds like there's some priority sorting-out that needs to go on here BEFORE abuncha poor-mouthing about a component that's CHEEEEEEP even for a BASIC modification plan, let alone abuncha "turbo".

 

Not sure why you couldn't find the holdner cam. Best deal around I'm aware of and very similar to the specs you mentioned. He doesn't use garbage cores and what he advertises is what you get. Unlike a lot of the amazon and ebay cheapo cams.

Email him at killerbe16@aol.com

 

Here's why most any cam besides stock will lose power off idle: Later IVC. Less trapped charge above the piston, not enough RPM to benefit from Heimholtz resonation. There is only one way to bring the power back up, and that's to raise your compression ratio. Of course there are limits to doing that, and trade offs ( like having to use higher octane fuel ), but it works. Pick the right cam and you'll start gaining power really low in the RPM range, but it's still generally above where a stock converter stalls, so it'll feel mushy down low.