I've had my turbo daily beater put together for about a year and a half now.
It does great, I can post some pics if people are curious but it's a super basic setup
I'm curious what others see for EGT and when yall start to worry

Ebay cast log manifold that mounts the turbo passenger side up front right off the manifold
Made my own crossover
VS 66/73 Billet .91 T4 journal bearing turbo
BTR 206/212 .553/.553 112+0
Walbro 450 in the stock bucket
ID1000 injectors
3" VS intercooler
3.73 gears
Built 6l80e with "ZL1" factory higher stall twin clutch converter
blah blah blah

I've towed open trailers with everything from my camaro to Hummers

I've always had an EGT gauge on it but never have stressed too much over it.
When pulling long grades trying to maintain 70mph loaded
I'll sometimes see 1550-1600 degrees sustained for 60-90 seconds

I have close to 45k miles on this setup and I change plugs about every 15k
They've never really shown any signs of being near meltdown
I have a catch can and so far the engine isn't puking its guts into it

I have a BIG aftermarket trans cooler and engine oil cooler
Factory Rad
180 thermostat
Trans and coolant temps always stay normal, no issues

I saw some other forum discussion on EGT and it got me thinking if maybe I'm being a little too nonchalant about my EGT and I'm actually super close to nipping an exhaust valve
Or if what I'm seeing is fine and I can keep abusing this deal

I do have a methanol injection kit on the truck
Only ever used it on the dyno
Never really worried about using it when towing but I could sure set it up if need be

 

There's a gent on here with a LS turbo tow rig and for the life of me I can't remember his name but hopefully he'll chime in.
For me I can't speak to EGT's but I'd be using that methanol kit when towing.
I've got a kit on my car and even with twin M15 nozzles fire hosing meth into my intake, it barely uses any methanol.
Hell, even using windshield washer fluid would be beneficial.
$20 worth of WW Fluid or a $70.00 pail of M1 is cheap insurance against popping a ring land.

 

Yea I have the meth kit tied into the Windshield washer reservoir so...I even have the low warning

I've just never had any issue so I haven't really used it

I should also mention the EGT probe is PRE turbo if that makes a difference for anybody with experience

 

You may not even need it.
I'll tag a couple guys who may know.
@GMCGreg @Mavn

 

I haven't towed with mine so no first hand experience with it . I have thought about it though. Haven't read anything about egts for a long time but I seem to recall about 1400 being the high limit- could be wrong about that . - 30° washer fluid is about 30% methanol and cheap , for what you're doing I would use that . The water can absorb a lot of heat in the CC and should show a good reduction in egt . You've run this combination for a while and haven't melted down yet so maybe you are good but I would definitely try spraying on a long grade and see what happens with the egt , can vary nozzle sizes to balance a safe egt with a volume that does require refilling every hill or get a larger tank if needed . I'm spraying 1000cc/ min but it uses that much in 3 10 sec passes or a bit more , if I went up a long grade the tank would be empty in 90 sec . Good long term benefit is it'll clean all carbon deposits off pistons and chambers and reduce chance of pre ignition caused by them . If you do experiment with it let us know how it works

 

EGT location makes a huge diff. unfortunatly because of that you really don't know where your sweet spot it. ON my old buick GN I knew if I creeped up in to the 1700 range i'd be doign head gaskets. It was pre turbo as well. But on another setup where I har the EGT in a singel runner I'd never see over 1400*. Also lots of things can vary the readings from setup to setup. they can pick up noise if run close to other wiring, temperature of wire and where its run can change readings etc. So really they are prety specific to the setup in my experiance. if you log them and blow a HG... You found your "do not cross" line.

 

Found this little snippet, sounds like you aren't running too terribly hot and your AFR/Timing may be right where they need to be.
I'd still add a little WW fluid at peak boost for those long grades just for a little insurance.It is not uncommon for gasoline engines to have EGT's between 1400-1650 degress at WOT.. I run a dyno for a living and 1600+ is common for newer engines at WOT above 4000 rpms. The manifolds will start glowing red around 1400 degrees, at 1650 degrees they are cherry red, at 1900 degrees they are transparent red!. The EGT's will vary with the air/fuel and timing. Next time you are behind a gas pickup towing a trailer up a decent grade at night, look at the pavement under the truck, you might be amazed.

 

Did I miss it, how much boost are you running? Cooler boost, drop some backpressure, etc would help. If you beat the **** out of it maybe piston jets, etc. I think you are doing pretty good as is though lol.

What fuel are you running?

 

Fresh plugs, pull the grade loaded, read the plugs??
The "economy" version of a dyno pull.

 

I don't like to see over 1650 at the valves. Have taken a bunch of sbes to 1600-1650 but never as long as you are, at least with a sensor logging. I would expect your combo to make torque early so it is probably normal. If rear plugs read good and timing is at MBT at least through peak torque I wouldn't worry much. You could have timing slightly retarded from MBT in that area but usually it takes quite a bit to make a difference so even then it wouldn't be much.