Hey guys, new to the chevy's
Recently picked up an 07 (classic) silverado 1500 with L33 for a good deal with a lifter tick
It is meant to sit most of the time unless i have to pick up something for home renovations or maybe save my but by towing my toy car incase something goes south (basically emergency car) - so it wont be abused and i dont really need any additional power

Long and behold i pulled the driver head and one of the lifters basically wiped the cam (bearing is good thank god)
I want to replace the cam, lifters and put everything back together

L33 cam is discontinued as i researched, so that brought me here
What are my options as cam goes? - i just want to toss it in basically and be done without tune or new springs

1 - Will Lm7 cam just bolt right in without swapping anything?
2 - I heard LQ9 or LQ4 cams might work but not sure if i need different springs or tune?
3 - Is there oe like aftermarket replacement options that wouldnt require a tune or springs

Or maybe there are some other avenues you guys will suggest?

Thank you so much in advance

 

1. Yes
2. Yes, you NEED springs no matter what no matter what cam you use, they MAKE A DIFFERENCE, even if you use the original cam; same for a tune; you can do without either butt you will pay a price of some sort
3. Yes, many of the "truck torque" cams w intake duration in the low 200° range are like that, see #1 & #2

 

Thank you for the info

If i go aftermarket and want to stay as close as possible to oem feel

What cam/springs kit would you suggest ?

 

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From TSP, BTR, CamMotion, Vinci, Summit, and so on. There's DOZENS of em out there that are "close to OEM" in many ways.

For springs, new "LS6" at a minimum; or PAC 1218.

 

I suggest this cam:

https://briantooleyracing.com/btr-ge...hoCAncQAvD_BwE

 

Disregard, wrong info.

 

There is no afm, its an 07 classic gmt 800

 

Raven, choose internet info wisely. There are guys out there…or bots…that simply sling info out, without experience or research. Truth is this…you want a camshaft with low 200’s intake and exhaust duration, or you’ll end up having to change all sorts of stuff and tune it to make it run. I’m not a fan of BTR camshafts, but the specs of the camshaft that abs threw up in that link are about what you’re after. Might as well buy springs for whatever cam you end up with, as a package deal. The BTR Delphi lifters are solid. Don’t buy a cheap lifter…you’ll be doing this again in a year if you do. GM lifter trays are a must…don’t buy any other tray but GM. You’ll need headgaskets, headbolts, bla, bla, bla. Keep us posted here please. Threads like this help others learn. I’ll add to this discussion that although a tune is something that your not interested in, the Oem tune is generic and you stand to gain performance AND mileage with a good tuner, even in stock form.

 

I think all of the advice in here is solid and pretty uniform in the theme regarding cam size. And I recognize all of the posters. No bots here.

This is optional, but since since you have the heads off already, a head upgrade is a great way to add performance across the board without affecting driveability. And you have already done the work to remove heads, so it is a no brainer to me. I have to reread your post to see what heads you have and i cannot from this reply page I'm on, but you could easily mill .030 off a set of heads and get compression benefits in the whole power band. 243s would be a good choice to get the most airflow (250ish cfms). With a small 200ish intake duration cam, there should be no ptv clearance concerns. Of course you could also get cnc heads but I doubt they would be worth the money for the cam size you are looking for.

 

What about this guy?

https://www.michiganmotorsports.com/...-12561721-cam/

Although, I'd be tempted to run this. Very similar specs to the Melling MTC7, which they say works with a stock computer(whatever that means).

https://sdparts.com/i-22100614-sdpc-...0-525-115.html

 

/\/\ he’s already got 243 heads. Any of the OE truck cams are very similar and will do. Personally I would put ls6 springs while you’re in there.

 

I second the PAC 1218s. PAC or PSI BOTH make great springs, but I prefer PAC. Theres a guy on here that works@PAC. @TurboBuickv6?

 

Thank you all so much for the suggestions, truck is still apart, i have ordered the cam from michigan motorsports , original gm springs ( GM GENUINE 12706568
) and MELLING JB2079 lifters
Stuff should arrive with all the gaskets on thursday - i just want to stay as close to the stock as possible (i know that cam might cost me a little power) but i think in l33 the main power gains over lm7 were from compression and pistons

Thank you again , i will keep this thread updated - let me know if any of the stuff i ordered is a bad quality product From research ive done they should be technically oem like

http://michiganmotorsports.com/camsh...Ugu_4Q8usYaZrD

 

i came in too late. But btr has some really solid V3 truck cams out now. There appears to really be no drawbacks to this little tiny one.
https://share.google/YsUSTrVftE9wiwvAx

 

that's the one I suggested on 3/14. definitely would have been an awesome way to go and only required ls6 springs. Other people were suggesting pac 1218 springs which made no sense to me as they are for cams with nearly .600 lift. OP didn't want that.