How many stick guys are in here and guys that switched over to auto
12-16-2010, 08:13 PM
#21
I was a M6 guy. I switched to an auto and then switched back.
I ran 9.94@138 with a bone stock T56, and a McLeod street twin. Back in those days,the car dynoed at 850rwhp and 949rwtq, through that trans.
Needless to say,it broke. I got the viper output shaft upgrade, steel shift forks, billet keys, synchros. It wasn't too bad. I had to get it cleaned up a few times in about 5 years. I broke alot of stuff, but not toomuch T56 stuff.
I went to a slipper clutch and it made that car launch so soft (almost like an auto), it was sweet. Even though I never got too much time to get the car figured out with the clutch it was great. And you could drive it on the street too. Even if I had to tighten the clutch up a bit, it was a 10 minute job. But obviously a slipper clutch has a much shorter life span then a regular street clutch. The best that I could muster was a 9.87@140 NA on a 1.48 60' with the new setup.
Keep shifting.
Roman
I ran 9.94@138 with a bone stock T56, and a McLeod street twin. Back in those days,the car dynoed at 850rwhp and 949rwtq, through that trans.
Needless to say,it broke. I got the viper output shaft upgrade, steel shift forks, billet keys, synchros. It wasn't too bad. I had to get it cleaned up a few times in about 5 years. I broke alot of stuff, but not toomuch T56 stuff.
I went to a slipper clutch and it made that car launch so soft (almost like an auto), it was sweet. Even though I never got too much time to get the car figured out with the clutch it was great. And you could drive it on the street too. Even if I had to tighten the clutch up a bit, it was a 10 minute job. But obviously a slipper clutch has a much shorter life span then a regular street clutch. The best that I could muster was a 9.87@140 NA on a 1.48 60' with the new setup.
Keep shifting.
Roman
12-25-2010, 12:22 AM
#22
I've ran a 9.64@143 - 1.43 60' (best 60' was 1.39) at a raceweight of 3475lbs. I'm running a Textralia Exo Skel twin disc and it loves it. Knock on wood I've never broken a single part on this car so far from stock other than some clutches and hydraulics here and there which to me is normal wear and tear. The tranny only has steel 3-4 fork, bronze pads, carbon blockers etc. The only major upgrade it didn't have was the viper output shaft. The motor setup is a 11.6:1 403 with a 150 shot. I usually side step the clutch on the launch control no lower than 6000rpm and spray out of the hole. I can play with the progressive controller to soften the hit if traction becomes an issue which is most of the time honestly.
One of the video's of multiple 9.6x passes are in my sig. Just look through my other video's to see more.
I also drive this car to the track over 100 miles away, swap the tires and unload the tools and jack and make passes! It's a true street car that still averages over 20mpg on the interstate!
One of the video's of multiple 9.6x passes are in my sig. Just look through my other video's to see more.
I also drive this car to the track over 100 miles away, swap the tires and unload the tools and jack and make passes! It's a true street car that still averages over 20mpg on the interstate!
12-25-2010, 12:48 AM
#23
On The Tree
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: houston, tx
Posts: 133
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I've ran a 9.64@143 - 1.43 60' (best 60' was 1.39) at a raceweight of 3475lbs. I'm running a Textralia Exo Skel twin disc and it loves it. Knock on wood I've never broken a single part on this car so far from stock other than some clutches and hydraulics here and there which to me is normal wear and tear. The tranny only has steel 3-4 fork, bronze pads, carbon blockers etc. The only major upgrade it didn't have was the viper output shaft. The motor setup is a 11.6:1 403 with a 150 shot. I usually side step the clutch on the launch control no lower than 6000rpm and spray out of the hole. I can play with the progressive controller to soften the hit if traction becomes an issue which is most of the time honestly.
One of the video's of multiple 9.6x passes are in my sig. Just look through my other video's to see more.
I also drive this car to the track over 100 miles away, swap the tires and unload the tools and jack and make passes! It's a true street car that still averages over 20mpg on the interstate!
One of the video's of multiple 9.6x passes are in my sig. Just look through my other video's to see more.
I also drive this car to the track over 100 miles away, swap the tires and unload the tools and jack and make passes! It's a true street car that still averages over 20mpg on the interstate!
12-26-2010, 01:04 PM
#25
Yes you are correct. I'm running the FJO mini controller and unfortunately it doesn't have a ramp reset switch like some other progressives do. I had i set pretty aggressive launching at 50% for .3 and then going 100% at .4. That little bit really softens the hit and does so between each gear also where the ramp resets. On my fastest pass I had no progressive in it and it was all over the track in every gear but when faster.
I'd recommend the NX Maximizer 3 or some other progressive controller that has a ramp reset setting to not allow the ramp to reset for 20 seconds once the ramp starts. If the WOT signal is lost the ramp will stop and resume where it left off when the WOT signal is seen again. I'm doing away with nitrous this winter for boost otherwise I'd already have a different progressive on order.
I'd recommend the NX Maximizer 3 or some other progressive controller that has a ramp reset setting to not allow the ramp to reset for 20 seconds once the ramp starts. If the WOT signal is lost the ramp will stop and resume where it left off when the WOT signal is seen again. I'm doing away with nitrous this winter for boost otherwise I'd already have a different progressive on order.
