RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Can you guys post up some photos of your BBC setup's in your 4th gen and the car weight and weight distribution, trying to figure out if I'll need to set the engine back or not.

MADMAN

iTrader: (4)

??????????????? Why would you move the motor back.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Though the weight distribution would be bad with a big inch BBC. Also with the weight being taken out of the car I thought it would be light in the ***.

NINET3Z

There are a few BBC 4th Gens going 7's without the engine set back. I wouldn't mess with it for a street car, unless you just want to do it for fun.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

Too late I already cut out the fire wall I don't care if it is super fast, I just want a bad *** pro street looking setup I can drive everyday of the week, plus putting the smash for a quick 300 ft at a stop light on some ricer would be great every now and then =)

Going pump gas this time with big motor and good cylinder head, it's 900+ hp or bust N/A. I wasn't thinking anything crazy, looks like I can go from 0-6" on how I am doing the firewall and going to tie in the cage and mid plate mounts. I am going with a lexan front window so I can notch it out for carb clearance.

Under the hood I am doing a wide fire wall, not just a set back section in the middle so access should be super easy with the rear of the shock towers cut out.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

More pics, man. Sounds awesome.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I'll try to get some later I haven't had time to do much been getting stuff ready to ship out I sold and doing other stuff. Tomorrow I will have a good amount of time so I will try to get some more work done then take pics.

What's up with your car where is your updates?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Me? I don't want to take things too far off the topic, but I haven't done much since getting it running. I'm waiting on a used rack + pinion as mines leaking. I'm still trying to figure out what I want to do for a radiator and condensor. I could go with a 40" x 12" in the center or twin 15"x18" units under the headlights. I want to get rid of the stock radiator mounts completely, that whole header panel, too. I'm trying to figure out the best way to rebuild the front with tubing.



I also plan to tub the front wheel wells so I'm making sure I take everything into account.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

It's a web site, we type stuff on here, you can write whatever you want to in my thread. I have a power steering rack and pinion, I'll sell it to you cheap, unless you already got a deal on one. I'm going manual and it isn't like I need the one I got now lol, I sold my rims, so I won't even have tires on it.

Let me know....

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I already bought it. Should be here tomorrow.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I think some moly or aluminum tubing bent to match the shape of the nose, tucked and hidden that is fiber glassed to the nose skin would be cool. Stock body work, but hidden frame and you ditch all the extra radiator braces and stuff.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

LOL figures...

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I only have a wire feed MIG so those 2 are out. I'll be use steel tubing. I plan to reinforce the springmounts real good as I probably won't have room for tubing along the outer edge. I plan to tuck real fat tires so I'm going to need a lot of room for them. I may even add an X brace over the engine. I want the front end real tight for handling purposes.

I know of only one guy to tub his front wheels, but I've never seen anyone do what I plan to do so I just need to think everything through real well.

To support the nose I plan to run some tubing right along the front. That's mainly in case someone leans on it. I'll be using a fiberglass nose so it will be fairly stiff as is.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

If you use a fiber glass nose you'll still have to glass and mount up a structure, you can weld aluminum with a mig. How much room do you need to notch the front for clearance?

Are you using dropped spindles and an air bag set up?

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Those noses don't need any support. The guy making them and his customers don't use any, but you have to be carefull about people leaning on them. They seem to hold up fine, but I wanted to add a little support for insurance.

When you saw notch the front, do you mean the wheel tubs for tire clearance? I think about 2". I want to bring the wells right up to the hood if possible.

Bags and drop spindles are the plan. I've already worked out the bag part, but I'm still working on the spindle idea.

Do you still have your power steering pump? I may need one.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

I threw that in the trash a while back lol. The glass front you'll have to still make a frame, you need something to attach it to the body with in the front, then they usually have a couple fasteners hold it on the bottom in the back of the tire by the door.

Look at vfn's site they have diagrams. Ever consider a custom spindle? I am sure they can go more than 2".

Ever consider cutting off the stock shock towers and making custom upper and lower a-arms? The longer you make the arms the less it will change the geometry when you raise and lower it., then you could mount an air bag and shock setup out of the way and have full clearance to the hood above the tire, that thing would sit on the ground big time.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

Below on some pics of the style of support bar I want to make as well as the E-1 front end. Since I don't need an intercooler I was thinking of mounting the radiator and condenser in the nose to make it look decent. Another option was to use a grill behind the openings.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

The E-1 is handmade and is a bolt on piece using the factory mounting points. It's not a thin racing shell and it runs $400.

2" will have the k-member on the ground. I don't need any lower.

Who makes custom spindles? (I can't afford $2K for billet units.)

I have thought about moving the upper A-arm lower so I can use a cheap drop spindle from a different auto, but since I want to push this thing to 180+ I'm hesitant to try that. It's actually the difference in arm length that alters the camber curve. If the upper and lower arm are the same legnth and parallel, then the camber will stay the same at different ride heights. You also have to consider toe, caster and ackerman angles. To prevent bumpsteer your inner tie rod pivots need to line up with the lower A-arm pivot points so it's not as simple as it seems.

RAGENZ28

iTrader: (5)

All that is done on road race stuff, you can do it! Look at my car, it's cut up big time, might as well go all out since your car will be down anyways.

JasonWW

iTrader: (2)

I know a lot of racers over on the FRRAX forum and no one has done this kind of major surgery to their car. I once suggested removing the outer triangle support piece on the outside of the fender and they all booed me. No support at all. Bunch of chickens.