So far I'm thinking ported heads + a bigger cam.

What will I need with the cam valvetrain wise?

Just trying to price it

Thanks everyone for helping

 

I could tell you want you need to get 500hp but it wont do any good with a stock converter and 3.08 gears, If you want a real 500 hp then you need at least a 3500 stall and 4.10 or 3.73 gears. I am guessing your car is around 3600lbs or so. You need screw in studs in the heads and roller rockers so you dont break the stock stuff.

 

Car has either 3:73 or 3:08s im not sure, and has a 2500 stall converter

Rocker studs are 7/16 ARPs

 

Take a look at the jan 09 issues of popular hot rodding.they do a buildup of a motor very similar to yours although they have afr heads.big cubes want compression and carb.650 plus horse.i think you should hit the 500 mark fairly easy.

 

The 2500 convertor may be plenty...depending on the internal design. When you see a stall rating for a converter, it is a general (not specific) number. That same converter may stall to 3500 behind a big block with 550ft-lbs of torque. As for the gears, 3.73:1 will probably be overkill. 3.08's might be a little too high, but a good compromise for a street car. I had a friend who ran low 12's with a trans am that had a stroked 455 in it. He had 3.23's. That thing would almost pull the front tires (with slicks)! I wouldn't worry too much about the gears and converter for now. Build the engine...run the car...and then see where you are at. Your biggest problem will be traction. I would spend money on some suspension parts (if your budget allows). Don't know what your car is, so I can't make any specific recommendations about suspension.

 

car is a 1970 Camaro

I was planning on working on suspension and getting some nittos but after dynoing wanted to work on getting closer to 500rwhp first rather than the 330/390

 

Dont spray it without Head STUDS!! you will lift the heads with anything more than a 100shot.

If you are going to port your heads then mill them as well! They are already off anyways, and it wont cost much for a machine shop to mill them down.

If I were you I would Mill/Port your heads, get a healthy hydraulic roller (Daily driving a solid roller sucks, valve lash adjustments FTL), and look at your carb/intake combo that is where you decide if you want your power in the midrange (rpm air gap) or up high (single plane victor jr.)

If you have the extra coin then just buy a set of cnc aluminum BBC heads (Dart, RHS, AFR) I am sure your 66' 427 heads would bring some dough on ebay or something!

Either way, GOOD LUCK! I love 70' Camaros almost as much as I love my x66 69' Camaro!!!

 

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

 

Why would he lift he heads with 100 shot any thing will take 100 shot, I hit mine wiith 250 all the time with stock head bolts.

 

Who cares how much hp it has what do you want it to run in the 1/4 or do you just want to go around saying you have 500rwhp and run 12s not being an ***, just wondering what you really want.

 

Well I do want it to do well at the track, I want to run a good time there and do well on the street digs/rolls.

I don't want it to be a dyno queen, I just thought it was very underpowered for a BBC

 

What cam do you have now? do you have more info on it? duration @50 and lift advertised duration? I wouldnt even worry about the dyno, just run it, tune it by time slips. All you need is good converter, gears and traction.

 

That's a big DUH on my part! I should have realized it was 1970 Camaro by looking at your posts a little more closely. For decent traction at the track (but still useable on the street), I would get a set of Caltack bars, remove the front sway bar (at the track), a cheap set of skinny front tires and some Hoosier Quicktime Pro's for the rear. Get some shims for your leafspring pads so you can drop your pinion angle to -2 degrees. Forget the Nittos. You'll have a real hard time hooking with those and a big block. I'd also stay away from drag shocks since you want to drive it. Light, skinny front tires and no sway bar will really help with the weight transfer.

 

Head info according to Mortec


3872702....65-66...oval..CLOSED..396, 427, 98cc chamber

 

.....ok, go ahead and spray "any motor" with nitrous and tell me what happens. We are trying to give him decent build info...not "How to Blow Your Motor in 10 Seconds" He obviously Daily Drives it, so why would he chance nitrous on STOCK **** that he ISNT EVEN SURE is or is not there. If he wants to spray it at least tear it down an see what is really in the bottom end. Forged Pistons and ARP rod bolts w/ ARP head studs will make the motor safe to 250-300 shot. Along with a safe tune but that should be a given..

He also said he thinks he has hypereutectic pistons....which are **** for nitrous use.

 

Well you said lifting the head, thats not going to happen but i agree the hyper pistions are not so good, but they should take 100 shot no problem if you can tun and have any brains at all. I have never blown up any engine with nitrous and i am 42 years old and have been doing this for 25 years. He doesn need to figure out what he has though.

 

This was the recommendation from comp cams

http://www.compcams.com/Cam_Specs/Ca...?csid=445&sb=2

And tomorrow I plan on calling a friends shop to see how much to get my heads milled/ported

 

If you plan on dropping $800-1000 on a cam kit then that cam will work fine, but you need to get a set of $400+ retrofit hyd roller lifters to use that camshaft. Just go with a hyd flat tappet cam like the 292 Magnum it makes GREAT power and will sound MEAN at idle. It gives a very nice and broad torque curve and will pull VERY HARD until 6500rpm with the right heads, dont over think it and stick with a proven combo the works and that cam flat works.

Porting and milling the heads will help, but you just cant make huge power with oval closed chambers to be honest. I'd say 500-550hp is really pushing it with low compression, remeber you cant flat mill a ton off of them but you can raise the comp a little, angle milling is an option but make sure the shop knows whatr their doing before the cut your heads. You can also run a steel shim type head gasket to get another .25 point or so and every bit is going to help in you quest for power with you mill. You can make a TON of torque with ovals and they are very good for the street, just dont expect too much from them as far as high RPM power. They get asthmatic above 6000 RPM and just cant move the air you need to rev it up..... My .36 cents hope it helps

BTW A 250 hit of juice is NOTHING for even a stock big block when tuned properly, dont listen to those who dont know!

 

My old BBC was a 468 with stock rods (including rod bolts) and crank with forged pistons and it loved a 300 shot....

Car was also shifted at 7000 (rectangular heads)

Head bolts were aftermarket but not ARP or anything, everything lived for at least 10,000 miles no problems.

BBC's are NOT SBC's. They will take a beating, even the stock main caps are HUGE, you could throw one and cause serious bodily injury to someone.....


Oval port head BBC heads suck when it comes to making some good power.

 

You sure about that? A bunch of us that are on or have been on a 300 shot with no head studs..... no problems at all.