Vortec build...wanting a bigger cam now..
#21
#22
Yeah the block is out of a 1989 chevy pickup. Id go roller for sure if the price doesnt get too crazy compared to a similar cam in flat tappet form. If i stayed flat tappet could i use the lifters/springs i already have? The lifters are Comp part #812-16 and springs Comp # 981-16. I know i would need roller lifters for a roller cam, but could i keep those springs if i went with that Voodoo roller cam that was suggested?
And just to clear something up, the 15* we're talking about, is the angle of the valves?
And just to clear something up, the 15* we're talking about, is the angle of the valves?
#23
Well, if you replace a flat tappet cam, you need new lifters anyways. Rollers are re usable, but not flat tappets. You can convert to roller for about 250-300$ or so, with used lifter parts and a cheap roller cam. I found a new roller cam for 150$ that is 230/230 @.050 and olmost .500 lift. Not a bad cam for a budget.
Yes.
Yes.
#24
the vortech heads are some torque monsters, especially with a 383. with your setup i agree with what zones is saying. no personal experience but most builds have cams usually 230 or less. i just saw a build with a roller cam i think was only like a 196/206 or so and it made huge tq as well. if funds permit a hydraulic roller cam with 220-230 duration with .500-.520 should work great for you. and then if it still isn't enough hit it with alittle n2o.
#27
Here's another question i just thought of: Do i have to replace the cam bearings? Or can i get away with the ones i have since they have only 2000 miles on them? I'm doing the swap with the engine in the bay and i heard that replacing cam bearings with the crank in is extremely difficult...
#29
Here is a thought since you already have the intake for the vortec head bolt pattern. Get the big port bowtie vortec's for the motor and get that cam that was stated in here earlier. The port volume is 210cc I think that way you can run nitrous and run the bigger cam and not worry about if you are out of the efficiency of your heads.
#30
Yeah i would but cant afford to buy new heads right now. Unfortunately im on a college budget and im stretching it with the new cam, carb, torque conv, gears, etc.
I plan on starting a project that i go all out on and can take my time buying parts as i get the money. Ill still have my TA to have fun with, and ill kinda just build the new engine as i can afford more for it. Then find a car to put it in probably. This car will just be somethin to tide me over till i can build a car with some serious power.
I should just quit modding this one and start saving, but im not really satisfied with the current setup, and i want to squeez a little more out of it before i do. Plus, you all know how it goes with modding. Hard to stop once you start...
I plan on starting a project that i go all out on and can take my time buying parts as i get the money. Ill still have my TA to have fun with, and ill kinda just build the new engine as i can afford more for it. Then find a car to put it in probably. This car will just be somethin to tide me over till i can build a car with some serious power.
I should just quit modding this one and start saving, but im not really satisfied with the current setup, and i want to squeez a little more out of it before i do. Plus, you all know how it goes with modding. Hard to stop once you start...
#32
#33
#35
go with the 233/241. The 230/237 is a roller cam. I say the 233/241. Some will tell you its too much, BUT its NOT! You can never have too much cam. Go to Speedtalk.com and ask if more duration is gonna hurt power with vortecs...ask Joe Sherman or anybody else.