Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

low oil pressure when accelerating

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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 06:26 PM
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Default low oil pressure when accelerating

brand new home built 500 hp 383 with 1500 miles over the last 8-10 months. haven drove it in a few months. went for a drive yesterday and when I accelerate my oil pressure wll go up for like 40 to maybe 45 and then start dropping to 35 and 30 and maybe more but i just coasted it home so the pressure stayed high. normally the pressure should increase until i shift but now it does this. what can the problem be?
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 08:47 PM
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Mine did the same ****, the cam bearings went bad due to the cam. Dont know if you were using a new cam or what. I used a cam i got off Ebay, used. So, it bit me in the ***.
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 09:22 PM
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sounds like an internal problem definately, i would rip it back down to make sure you dont damage anything
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Old Jan 23, 2009 | 09:43 PM
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Yep, tear it down.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 08:41 PM
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any other ideas before i tear it down.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 08:52 PM
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a mechanical OP gauge.
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Old Jan 26, 2009 | 09:34 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdcustoms
any other ideas before i tear it down.
The oil pump pick up assembly or just the end fell off. Or, it's too close to the pan.

Does it do the same thing in park/neutral when revved?

I'd put money on it.

Loose bearings cause low pressure at idle--not your problem.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 11:11 AM
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what would the difference be between park and neutral??
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:02 PM
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Nothing really.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdcustoms
what would the difference be between park and neutral??
The fact that I don't tell you to try it in park and you come back with "but I have a manual transmission"

Park= automatic only
Neutral= automatic or manual

But I don't just say neutral because I think if you have an automatic it's best to keep it in park for safty reasons.

My original intention was to not have to type all that out explaining something so obvious.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 02:18 PM
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When it does this when you are accelerating, does it do it more when you accelerate under wide open throttle? If so, it is due to the oil pan. The oil is climbing the back of the pan and the oil pump pickup has no oil around it so it is picking up only air. To fix this, you need a larger capacity oil pan, 7 quarts, that has trap doors to keep the oil close to the oil pump pickup and an "anti climbing" wall welded onto the indside of the back wall of the oil pan. If the engine is doing this under a mild acceleration as well, two things come to mind.

1. The oil pump pickup depth is not correct in the oil pan. This should be 3/8" of an inch from the bottom of the pan.

2. There is a pressure relief valve spring and a plunger in the oil pump that disengages when a certain oil pressure is reached and it oscillates back and forth to maintain that pressure. However, sometimes the plunger sticks in this bore causing you to loose oil pressure. I know this because my 406 did the same thing with two different melling pumps. One was an m-select top of the line pump, and the other was a M55A pump. The plungers in both pumps were sticking in the bores.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 04:01 PM
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I agree with 69ss but if you were loosing oil pressure due to the pump acting upp you should be able to see it in park/neutral. If its because of the pan which most likely I would assume it is you will only notice it on the road.

Loose bearings will cause low oil pressure at idle. I would only take the pan off at this time. What kind of pan is it?? If you want to be comfortable change the oil pump when you are down there but if it was a mechanical failure you would have seen it by now just my thoughts though.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:00 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
The fact that I don't tell you to try it in park and you come back with "but I have a manual transmission"

Park= automatic only
Neutral= automatic or manual

But I don't just say neutral because I think if you have an automatic it's best to keep it in park for safty reasons.

My original intention was to not have to type all that out explaining something so obvious.
lol ease up cowboy...exactly my question was, whats the difference between park and neutral. everyone knows that there the same, thats y i didnt understand ur statement and i asked? anyways it also does the same in park
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:08 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdcustoms
anyways it also does the same in park
oil pump pickup.
Is that eased up enough.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:12 PM
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thank you, it has a 7 qt oil pan and has a m-select hv55 oil pump. also the pan and pick up tube were bought to be correct, never measured it but they were bought to work together with each other. so if my plunger is sticking in the bore, what is the fix for that?? this is some information that is finally starting to make some logical sense.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:17 PM
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Originally Posted by 9000th01ss
oil pump pickup.
Is that eased up enough.
lol, yea thats eased up enough.. but i believe that the oil pickup is still attached because if it was not, then at start up it would not have proper pressure. if the pick up was on the bottom of the pan, then at start up it would be sucking air all the time.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdcustoms
thank you, it has a 7 qt oil pan and has a m-select hv55 oil pump. also the pan and pick up tube were bought to be correct, never measured it but they were bought to work together with each other. so if my plunger is sticking in the bore, what is the fix for that?? this is some information that is finally starting to make some logical sense.
You have to measure the pickup clearance. Its critical! 99.99% of the time, they have to be adjusted. When the engine builder setup my pump/pickup for my 7 quart pan, he used a piece of thin plastic, and some soft clay. He put the plastic on the oil pump pickup, then the clay on top of that then put the pan on it, and pressed it down until the pan was bottomed out on the oil pan gasket. Different oil pan gaskets will cause more variation in this height as well so you have to be sure to use the exact oil pan gasket on your engine during test fitting that you will use when the engine is assembled. He then removed it and measured the thickness with a set of dial calipers. He took it on and off 4 times, each time moving the pickup slightly to get the 3/8" clearance. The pickup was then tack welded to the pump.

Fixing the oil pump requires dropping the oil pan, pulling the pump off the motor, dissasembling the pump and honing out the hole that contains the spring/plunger assembly to be slightly larger, then putting it back together again.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:36 PM
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Originally Posted by bigdcustoms
lol, yea thats eased up enough.. but i believe that the oil pickup is still attached because if it was not, then at start up it would not have proper pressure. if the pick up was on the bottom of the pan, then at start up it would be sucking air all the time.
Not really. I had just the end fall off once, so it was just a tube sucking from the bottom of the pan. It had good oil pressure, but it dropped when held at high rpm. (like 3,000 -4,000)

My only guess is that it was funneling the oil, like draining a bath tub, you get that funnel of water that sucks air.

I just dropped the pan, replaced the pickup, and the problem was solved.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 07:44 PM
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Actually Look at where the pickup is and look at the hole in the pump. Not much higher. I've pulled apart a stock engine that had good oil pressure with the whole pickup laying in the bottom of the pan.

Last edited by 9000th01ss; Mar 18, 2009 at 12:18 AM.
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Old Jan 27, 2009 | 08:25 PM
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yep yep seems like a pretty quick fix. i guess it could also be pick up still. we will find out in a few days. glad to know that its is in the oil pan.
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