How to make 600whp+ NA with a sbc?
03-02-2009, 08:13 PM
#42
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Yeah the car weighs 3000lbs with a aluminum headed sbc in it, it wont take much to make it fast. And the tranny is a Viper-spec so it will hold just fine, I think a BBC is the only way to go unless I do a FI SBC build.
03-03-2009, 12:47 AM
#44
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Uhh, you run bottom 10s@133, dont you think 10mph more trap speed could shave a second off? I said 140+, I trapped 130ish beforeand that got boring and only took about 550hp to do. 800-900hp should put me over 150 and I really dont care much about having lopsided ets, its a street car. I dont care if i run 11s@155mph, lol, Ill still be draggin ppl on the highway and thats the whole reason I have a third gen. I think Im going BBC though at this point. Theres really no feasible way to accomplish my goals with a SBC.
Sig. never changed..
I used to be 11.20/120 and 10.15/133, going to a short tire put me at 11.0/127+ N/A and 9.85/140+...3550lbs and a PG trans was really sensitive to gearing. It still doesn't leave very well, I know a few guys that go 9.40's at that speed but they are big tire/steep gear/3 speed cars. Goodluck
03-05-2009, 08:29 AM
#46
I am working on putting together a pumpgas 427 SBC, maybe 18° heads if I can find a good deal. I don't have to have a certain number out of it - just make the most power for what I can afford. So far I have a Dart Little M and a set of 6" Oliver rods that I bought from a local EZ Street racer. I'll be pretty happy with mid 600's FWHP on pumpgas, and then shoot 200 or so nitrous for good measure. I figure that with doing the assembly myself and buying used parts where possible (but not skimp on quality), I can build it for around $8k.
03-05-2009, 11:52 AM
#47
Well, i was making about 570 HP with a 383 and i had new rods and pistons, but everything else was used: About 3000$, but the used cam fucked up the cam bearings. SO, lesson is dont use a cam from Ebay that is used.
Dart block will be excellent for the power.
Dart block will be excellent for the power.
03-05-2009, 10:03 PM
#48
I already have a "budget" 406 in my Nova - Eagle 4340 crank, H-beam rods, Wiesco, splayed caps, solid roller, Brodix heads... I built it for just a little over $3,500 using a GM block. It is lasting well after 4 years (ran best of 6.40 @ 110 mph in my street Nova last fall), but I just want to step it up, and build a solid foundation for some boost in the future.
03-08-2009, 07:26 PM
#49
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Ding Ding Ding We have a Winner!!! Finally someone agrees with me!
I have hated those percentages that people have been using all along. They just dont work! Every combo is different. You can't say The only time there may be more power loss by increasing Hp is when the rpm range is increased. The higher things are spun the more friction. Thats the only time. Period.
Some moron will state 12% or whatever due to only one fact (transmission). I hate that *****. Maybe in some instances at some power levels it actually does compute to 12% or whatever but it is no true guideline in any way. Proof is when you put on a EWP, reduction pulleys, manual steering rack, and eliminate the smog pump. Do they think they added HP to the motor? No you are getting some of the lost HP back. An engine dyno reads the HP without all the frictional losses, thats all it makes and nothing more. Its your objective to get as close as possible to that # once everything is installed.
The way newer cars (after 1972) are measured is with all accessories installed but still on an engine dyno.
Any machine shop with an engine dyno measures without accessories.
