1976 nova





steel gm crank
x rods
speed pro forged dome tops
roller rockers
Xtreme Energy XS282S Mechanical Flat Tappet Camshaft
Lift: .520''/.540''
Duration: 282/290
RPM Range: 2400-6800
some kind of cheap heads i think 194s maybe 305 heads but they are ported
victor jr intake
holley classic 750 double pumper
blackjack headers
3 inch into super 44s and dumped before the 12 bolt rearend
jegs stall
built to the max 350 turbo out of a prostreet car i traded for... manual valve body
12 bolt with 4.56 posi
b&m zgate shifter
serpentine belt pulleys
solid motor mounts
holley fuel pump
cant think of anything else
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I got a new set of heads today... they are old style dart iron eagle 202s
they should boost my power a little
my heads i got on the motor now i swear are either 305 heads or 882s
cause they dont make any real power
slvr98camaro - do you think i should run msd or something?... the reason im posting on here is to get advise and things to improve my hp and tq
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The MSD distributors are certainly a nicer piece than he stock HEI, but if it's not in the budget the HEI is fine with a good module and a re-curve. As far as the MSD box goes, it'll certainly help the engine run and idle a bit better, but I don't know how much you'd gain by adding one, if anything.
What about the vacum advance?
you dont know how much i appreciate this
What about the vacum advance?
you dont know how much i appreciate this
There are several different vaccum advance units that GM has used over the years, each with it's own characteristics. Without knowing what you've got and how much vaccum your engine is making, it's hard to say if you should use it or not. You can remove the whole thing and just use the mechanical advance mechanism in the distributor if you don't want to play with the vaccum unit. However, if you are driving this thing on the street, the vaccum advance will help out the idle a bit and may make it more pleasant to drive. If you do want to run it, but don't want to keep changing units to find which one works the best, you can buy an adjustable unit and play with it until you get it right. As far as the re-curve, Mr. Gasket 929G should cover that and I would recommend the MSD HEI module #83645. The MSD module is nice because it incorporates a rev limiter which I would always recommend.
On to the cooling problem. A cooler thermostat may help a little, but I don't think it's your cure. There are a few things to look at before we start making changes. I see you've got an electric fan. Is it wired properly to pull air and are the blades oriented correctly? Is it thermostaically controlled or manually controlled? You're running a serpentine set-up with what looks like a short water pump. It seems like the pump, based on what I can see of the belt routing, is turning the same direction as the engine. I believe only the Corvette used the short pump and if the pump was meant for a serpentine system, it may be a reverse rotation pump. After making sure everything is turning in the right direction you can try a new radiator cap with a higher pressure rating that will raise the boiling point of the coolant some more, but will expose any weak points in your cooling system. In all honesty, in the end, I think a higher capacity radiator is in order. I don't think the stock 2 core is going to keep up no matter what you do.
The next day im off i will try the timing...
And as soon as i get my next check ill pick up the 6al box... should i get the 6al or another one? is there a new one?
Thanks everyone for the help...
The next day im off i will try the timing...
And as soon as i get my next check ill pick up the 6al box... should i get the 6al or another one? is there a new one?
Thanks everyone for the help...
As far as the MSD box goes, I would use one of their new digital boxes or if you want to lock out the mechanical advance in the distributor, use the
6AL-2 (I think) that allows you to program your ignition curve via laptop and do away with all of the springs, weights, and vaccum canisters.
Todays my day off and my little girls bday so after i spend time with her im installing my radiator... first i have to chop up my core support where it was a six cylinder car...
Did you verify that the fan is wired and oriented correctly? Does it move enough air to cool the engine? With the cap off can you see coolant flowing through the cores?
Air could be trapped in the system. It will work out over time (and temps will come down), but there are two generally accepted ways to speed the process. The first one is to jack up the front of the car to raise the filler neck on the radiator higher up in the system. This will accelerate the movement of air pockets through the system, but it may still take a few days to get all of the air out. The second is to fill the coolng system and run the car with the cap off to prevent pressure from building up. Let it run until it reaches operating temperature. As air in the system is released the coolant level will go down. Keep adding coolant until the level remains constant or bubbles stop coming out of the system. Once this is done you should be ok.
Oh, and hook up that PCV valve to manifold vaccum or into the bottom of the air cleaner if it has that provision. It has nothing to do with cooling, but it should be hooked up to prevent pressure build up in the crankcase. It's not really doing anything the way it is. If you're against hooking it up, run a second breather.
mine started as a v6 3 on the tree. this is what it looks like now:

if ya got any questions feel free. ive been through it all with this car.


