black84z28

if i was you i would make it work with some good ole fabbing. i'd hate to do a project and have a weak link such as a t5. they can be ok but they really are turd in the area for strength. i'd wanna make a t56 fit

Doc Hawk

When you are paying for my build, I'll approve the mods!

A T56 fits fine with the required mods. The required mods cost thousands and limit clutch and flywheel options. I would rather spends thousands in different areas and not suffer the limited options.

black84z28

just rather not see you come back with this idea later because you went thru a few t5s. had a friend do this with an issue of 4l60e falling apart on him and finally he went to a t56.

i don't see how fabbing your own trans tunnel and **** costs thousands?

slingshot928

I would use the factory shortblock, with forged pistons, stock rods, stock crank. Use the factory 202 double hump heads, I forgot what cc they are, but you can deck them to increase the compression. Put 2.02 / 1.60 valves in them, and then throw on a performer or victor jr intake and a holley 750 street avenger carb...my buddy has that set up with a nice cam and it runs great...otherwise if you want to spend the money then buy some aluminum heads.

Doc Hawk

Slingshot, I guess I should have mentioned that I bought these aluminum heads. It was a total no-brainer. They came with dual valve springs and the 1.6:1 roller rockers. $500 for the whole kit.

Doc Hawk

Been in a 240Z lately to see where the trans tunnel is, and what it would do to the whole car to widen it by 1"? Reaching behind your back to shift is also a no-go. Then there's the height, which would wreck the entire stock dash and console...

Your idea of "easy, just fab the tunnel" doesn't make sense financially, timewise, asthetically, or functionally. The real answer is to just buy the right **** for the conversion so it all works right. I ain't gonna do either, so I ain't using a T56.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

If it doesnt work out in the end, a TKO500/600 would be your friend.

black84z28

i have seen some people fab up some nice *** stuff. the guy who painted my car is doing a resto mod of a 69 charger with a whole viper set up including independent rear motor and trans and basically everything salvagable about the car. if you are trying to do something cheap. cheap and good just doesn't mix. if you have the brain power it can be done. if you don't wanna do your project right...why even waste the time. im just trying to help...no need to be a dick about it...

Doc Hawk

Not bashing on you black, sorry if it reads that way. All I am saying is, when a known solution exists and it works, it's usually easier and to go with that engineered solution rather than try to engineer a new one. The point of the build would go from the overall swap to a new way to put a T56 into an S30, and that is not the build I am working on.

To build a car well and on budget, it is best to establish a concept and goals, and stick to it. Every time an option comes along - and many will come along - you weigh the options against the build concept and goals. If you consistently choose the options that are in keeping with your build, you win.

Reinventing the wheel on SBC transmission swaps into Datsuns is not in my build concept. I am building a quality SBC swap into a good 240Z on a tight budget. Budget doesn't have to mean cheap, and there is a very wide spectrum between cheap and "I'll pay whatever, I want the best."

slingshot928

You should be able to achieve 400 hp in a small block very easily...just make sure those edelbrock heads have big valves in them in order to perform...some of edelbrocks stuff does not perform very well.

Doc Hawk

They are pretty top-shelf. Specs:

• High-quench chamber
• Ports are .200" taller than standard small-block Chevy heads
• 64cc combustion chambers produce 10.2:1 compression with flat-top pistons in 350-inch engines
• 200cc Intake Runner
• 2.02" Intake and 1.60" Exhaust Valves

Flow numbers @ 28" H2O:
Valve Lift .100" .200" .300" .400" .500" .600" .700"
Intake 67 122 175 223 252 259 265
Exhaust 57 110 153 182 196 204 207

Crazy.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Those flow numbers should net 450 with the right valve train and compression.

NemeSS

iTrader: (127)

those are some pretty strong heads, flow just a bit more than a stock ls2 head.
those heads will support up to and above 500bhp n/a with the correct scr and dcr.

Doc Hawk

With the previously recommended cam specs (thanks Zone), Comp Cams' desktop dyno says 620 HP on my setup. I know that is silly overrated, so I'm very anxious to see what it will really put down.

ZONES89RS

iTrader: (25)

Let us know how it works out!

black84z28

that would awesome if those programs were actually accurate.

Doc Hawk

I went with the Professional Products Crosswind (RPM Air Gap copy) aluminum intake, polished version for $200. It is very pretty. Bought my gaskets and flat top pistons; almost ready to give it to the shop.

I still need to select my hydraulic roller cam - getting lots of varied input. I have 1.6 roller rockers that I want to use; would that alter the cam recommendation you guys made?

quick77

230-240@.050 108-110 LC, You need to take your heads to your builder BEFORE you order a cam,reason being to check spring installed height/valve legnth ,all this will tell you how much lift you can run without making changes , keep in mind that your probably going to need heavier pressure springs on even a mild hyd. roller. you could special order a cam with the right lobe lift to use your 1.6 rockers and stay within the spring installed height limit, and go with that amount of lift.........Comp cams may be able to set this up as a 4-7 firing order swap also, i do not think that will add h/p at this motors level, but it should run smoother..............on the tranny thing, why not consider an automatic, 350 turbo, or in something that light a powerglide..........if your still running the stock rear, things will live alot longer