01tam6

iTrader: (1)

I personally would ditch the synthetic oil for a couple thousand miles. Rings do tend to seat better/faster with a conventional oil. They do need some friction to seat. Just as honing with to fine of a hone can cause the same thing. Also on the heads are you running a dual spring? If so make sure the valve seals are the small diameter type. The factory size will get caught in the innerspring and pull it off the guide(you should be able to see this by pulling the valve cover and looking closely). I would also ditch the pcv for and evac system as recommended above or just run valve cover breathers. Hope this helps.

LoStOCeAnZ63

so you think i should switch back to normal oil ? i have a pcv valve and a breather ill get another breather i guess and ill check on the valve springs and get back to you

01tam6

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, if it was mine I would switch to a conventional. Also forgot to ask if the heads were ported? If they are ported extensively sometimes you may get a pin hole in one of the intake ports and it will pull oil from the lifter valley though the port and into the cylinder. Hope you get it figured out. I know things like that are frustrating!

Oldsmobility85

iTrader: (1)

Yeah that is good advice. I didn't know you were running synthetic motor oil. Maybe i missed that somewhere. Synthetic motor oil tends not to smoke very much if any at all and that could be why you aren't seeing any smoke if it is burning oil.

LoStOCeAnZ63

well if thats the case maybe i should switch oils i dont want to be smoking up the whole road haha

another thing is what can i do to get better gas milage im getting like 10-11 mpg right now city driving with a stock fuel pump 750 edlbrock 3500 stall converter and 373 gears

Oldsmobility85

iTrader: (1)

Probably need to do some reading up on how to tune that type of carb. They can be easily wasting fuel due to metering rod height jet size and idle air circuit operation. I am no expert but I have tinkered with a edelbrock or two. I think they have books to help assist you in tuning it.

LoStOCeAnZ63

i already tuned it for good gas milage and made it a little more rich then it said to go so i didnt lose all my power but it also said that you can only control the fuel when at idle and that it doesnt change anything while driving i watch a video on how to do it on youtube is there anything else i can do like carb spacer or what if i changed my carb to a quad jet for the street and then used my other one for like weekends track etc how much fuel could i save

LoStOCeAnZ63

ok so ive noticed that my coolant is brown and its a new motor (rebuilt to a 383) and new radiator so im thinking maybe oil is getting into the cooling system so maybe thats why its burning oil?

so what does this all mean ?

cracked head?
bad intake or head gasket?

Oldsmobility85

iTrader: (1)

You worry entirely too much! Your coolant is probably brown because of the block being iron. They Rust!

LoStOCeAnZ63

well its still burning oil i have about 1000 miles on it now so only guess is that the valve seals are bad or something ill have to do a leak down test

LoStOCeAnZ63

another problem ughh!!!! took my car out tonight my belt came off i didnt even realize that the temp gauge was so high it said 260-270 i pull off to the side of the freeway and there is steam coming from behind the pully on the water pump coolant i all over the place i put the belt back on (thank god i have a tool bag in the car) cars temp still kept going up as i was driving im guessing the water pump is done for and i most likely warped my heads

FML !


do you think my heads are going to be messed up now?