Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

Knock sensors on a BBC.

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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 02:18 AM
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Default Knock sensors on a BBC.

Hi all! Ever since I read about EFI Connections and its 502 ram jet powered by coils, I was obsessed with running a big block off a LS1 computer.


My main question is this. Because the LS1 knock sensors are in the valley.. would it be possible to weld 2 bungs to the lifter holder/tray in the BBC and run the wires out the back of the manifold covered by the RTV? Would it just leak?

I have found that you can just use the drain plugs for knock sensors on older blocks but I have wondered if this would leak or not for awhile. I have read it's a better way to detect knock.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 12:48 PM
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I want to take my questions a step farther.. I might need to find a BBC board.

I researched that the mark IV timing covers are used on Mark V/VI by drilling out the remaining holes. This allows you to use a double roller on the later blocks as they did not have timing covers that had the space needed for a double.

Now, what if you go in reverse? How does the above work but you cannot use a Mark VI timing cover on a Mark IV?

What is so different/special about the oil pans that allow one way and not the other.

Would it be possible to take the front half of a mark VI oil pan, and weld to to the back half of a Mark IV pan, then run a 2 piece rear main seal?

(Mark IV blocks are plentiful around here, Mark VI.. not so much, so I would like an alternative to buying a Mark VI crate)

This is where I wish I had the below car paid off so I could start buying things and making real estimates on what to do, but until February this is all I can do.


EDIT:

Well crap, should have read more.

Further research has revealed that the bolt patterns are in fact the same. However, the 10 bolt cover gm is alluding to using is the gen v 10 bolt cover. There is some apparent difference in the 1 piece oil pan gasket portion of the 1pc rear main seal timing covers. The gen v being a hybrid and having a deep cover and 10 bolt pattern for use with a double roller chain, mark iv cam and the 1pc style oil pan gasket section.
So there goes that. Anyone think of a way to fit a 1 piece main seal crank into a 2 piece block?

Last edited by Parasoth; Dec 23, 2010 at 12:53 PM.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 03:47 PM
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OK, going off of being able to use a two-piece main seal crank in a 1-piece block using an adapter. (http://www.jegs.com/p/Stefs/Stefs-2-...45619/10002/-1)

Would it then be possible to make a Mark IV into a 1-piece block?

An oil pan off a Mark VI, the two-piece to one-piece adapter, and a mark V timing cover?

Have I solved my problem or is this just day dreaming? If anyone can point me to a good forum for big blocks..
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 06:33 PM
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I think I have looked into this in the past but just to be sure I just did a quick search and couldn't come up with anything to convert from a two piece to a one piece rear main seal. It seems like everyone goes from one to two simply because the crankshafts are much more readily availabe for two piece rear main seals.
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Old Dec 23, 2010 | 07:11 PM
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Well let's go over some basic information.

I still think my idea will work of:

Mark IV block.
Mark V Oil pan.
Mark V Timing Cover
One Piece-Rear Main Seal.
2-piece rear crank to 1 piece rear crank adapter.

Basically doing a conversion in a conversion.
Mark V/VI is able to use the 2 piece rear main seal cranks because of the above adapter I linked too.

Well what if you convert the Mark IV block to accept a 1 piece rear main seal by my above methods, and then take it BACK to a two-piece rear main seal with the adapter.

This leaves the Mark IV as a One-piece rear main seal, that accepts 2-piece rear main cranks.

The only possible problem would be the timing cover. Being 10 holes on the older style and 6 holes on the newer style to accept the added sensors on the cover.

Someone smart chime in..


[EDIT]
More digging shows that some ford owners do this, but.. either have to have the block machined, or something on the crank machined off to adapt the one piece.

Last edited by Parasoth; Dec 23, 2010 at 07:22 PM.
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 01:14 AM
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Maybe I am misreading something, but are you just trying to convert a mark IV block to a one piece rear seal?
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Old Jan 20, 2011 | 01:27 AM
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This may help. I didn't write this, another guy did on one of the other forums.

Originally Posted by Another Forum
Take a look at this post from DRR. This guy has dealt a lot with the Gen VI.

AS far as I know Cloyes does not make a cover for a Gen VI. The Shafiroff cover is a nice piece as I have a friend with one of their crate engines.
__________________________________________________ ____________
MarkIV head Is a direct fit on the GenVI as well as the GenVI being able to use the GenV head as well as ANY aftermarket head such as Dart,Brodix,etc.

The GenV block is the oddball that requires special head gasket,mocking up,etc. or coolant WILL seep into lifter valley,
(Unless a GenV head is used)

Like luv2_4nk8 said-
Use a GenV Stamped steel cover on the GenVI block.,
you'll also have to drill either the cover,or the block as Only 4 bolt holes on your GenVI Block will line up with th GenV timing cover in undrilled form.,

if you drill and Tap the block (1/4-20 Tap ) there is Nothing to it,and Nothing to worry about drilling into (coolant,oil passage,etc.)

The Mark IV won't cover Won't work because of Diff. in timing cover to Pan seal.,

Other that that this WILL allow you to use ALL Matk IV Timing components,such as-
Cams,Cam Bolt Locking plate,Cam buttons,Double roller Chains,Timing Pointer's,etc.,etc.

(Timing cover gasket for a Mark IV Must be used if drilling and tapping of block is done),

or GenV Timing cover gasket MUST be used if cover is just drilled to fit block),

as the GenVI used a Rubber Seal in cover (for cover to Block sealing).,

The Dampner seal (Crank Hub) you'll need is Standard MarkIV,GenV,+ GenVI as they All take this SAME seal

I drilled and tapped my Block for use of Both the GenV,and GenVI cover,
(uses 10 Stainless steel hex-head bolts 1/4in. Long available at Any Hardware store)

Also like other post said they take a .300 Taller lifter (Same as Dart,Merlin Block,etc.),

If you Need pics.,
or Get stuck in a Bind contact me at-

rpreble@glasscity.net

Can walk you through it,along with sending Pics. of cover,Block,etc.,The Very Easy Mod's necessary.

It's a Very EASY task-
(that'll take less than 30 minutes to do,as cast Iron drills and taps Like Butter ),

you can also simply purchase a Timing Cover from Shaffiroff
(which Only uses the stock 6 Retaining cover to block bolts/bolt holes the GenVI came stock with),

If you cannot find a $10.00 GenV Stamped steel cover,or don't feel like messing with it

Go with the Aluminum Shafiroff cover.,
As it IS priced FAR LESS than Comp Cams Covers!,and even comes with a $25.00 pointer,etc. (as the Comp Cams Aluminum Timing IS a rip-off at $250.00+ for Cover alone!)

Located at Near bottom of this page-
Here you go- http://www.shafiroff.com/components.asp

Whichever you choose Will work
(I prefer the Modified GenV Steel Cover,over the aftermarket Aluminum covers),

for a Oil Pan just use ANY GeV or GenVI that suits your needs.,
I like the Milodon's

good luck,
other than that you Have a Siamesed Cy'l Big Bore Mark IV Block
(WILL Now accept ALL Mark IV Valvetrain,etc.),

If you use a aftermarket 2 piece rear seal adapter for the use of a 2 piece rear seal (Early Style Mark IV Crank),

simply fit it to block,
use the MarkIV crank,
along with the Use of ANY GenV,GenVI oil pan of your choice.-

Like this one if you have Chassis room - http://www.milodon.com/main.htm
Just scroll over to the left on Oil pans,then click on Drag race pans,then next page (pages) to see which one you like,or have use for

Part# 31191 (my choice),
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