zz17iroc

iTrader: (1)

By far the LS1 ecm is a better choice, the latest, and greatest ecm that factory has to offer. It also has a faster processor speed than my old 730 ecm for better injector control due to more injector drivers. In turn the LS1 ecm can control larger injectors better like the 48 to 110 lbrs. a lot better. But as you said before your cousin ran 11.83 @ 116 and I'm running in the low 11's @ 121 mph. As far as the 730 tunebility and parameters it does not have as many tables like on HPTuner and it's not as confusing either, but a lot of tables due the same thing but has a different name.

No, I made 461rwhp on motor and 586rwhp on 150 shot with low bottle pressure with my 383 that has a Accel Pro Ram single plane intake I've personally been 11.4X @ 121 mph with a 1.58 60 ft. and 10.3X @ 131 mph with a 1.54 60 ft. on a 150 shot hitting the spray in 2nd gear not out of the whole. I just got a progressive controller and hoping for a 9.9X pass when I up the shot.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

The block would have to have the little nubs in the lifter valley to hold the spider that hold the lifter retainers. Roller lifters cannot be used on flat tappet cams. It would be a waste to go over to a roller setup and use something a small as a 1985 tpi cam. If you must go that route and you want to stay in that range of cam. Just get a 350 TPI cam, they were roller or get a cam out of the 96-98 vortec truck also an LT1 cam.

To convert that block to roller would be a chunk of change and not worth it to me for a 305.

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (13)

I agree, just get a flat tappet cam and new lifters!

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

OK, thanks.

BTW, am looking for a re-manufactured set of 305 heads, 64cc or a little smaller (76-85), (4) bolt radial valve covers (not center bolt). Will pay $200 shipped & provide you with a set of cores assembled (w/ valves, guides, springs) shipped @ my expense. Have Paypal & a perfect trader rating. Posted in the appropriate WTB sales section. Wanted to note here as well. PM, call or text 937-242-5493. Location North East, Ohio.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

I'll dig around the garage and see what I can find. What I have is not re-man but it was in good working order when it came off the vehicle.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Thanks. However, we worked out the heads today. I do appreciate the effort.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Making progress. Am replacing the crank. It's not completely horrible, but, new are $150 or less & makes selecting replacement bearing size easier. Boy, those stock cast ridges behind the inlet of each TB blade are huge. Unbelievable some of the stuff cast into stock parts. Can see how grinding them down helps. Oh, & 2 bolt mains...really??? Wow, thought even a little 305 would use @ least 4 bolt mains. Maybe that's why the crank main journals were exponentially worse than the rod journals.

Sublime Dak

My current project is based off a 2 bolt block with splayed 4 bolt caps. It is stronger than the stock 4 bolt blocks. 2 bolt blocks have beefier main webs.You should check out Eagle cast cranks, they only run about $168 through Jegs.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Eagle/356/1035...oductId=755263

All american vehicles with 305's were 2 bolt. Some Canadian trucks got 4 bolt main 305's, but only for one or two years.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Thanks for the comments. Have been thinking about what you said regarding the splayed caps since reading this afternoon...If ever an argument could be made for ARP main cap bolts, a (2) bolt main would be the candidate. Basically, am thinking about a main cap bolt upgrade as opposed to a splayed cap. I just wonder if adding a couple thou to the main bearing clearance would be required. Have not yet looked up the main cap stock bolt torque specs, but, measured 90 Ft-# before removing the main caps. Can't imagine that ARP's would require any higher. Guess I'll be looking up the specs to see. Am thinking that the ARP's are a higher tensile & yield strength than the stockers & required more torque. We will see.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

I see that the mains had been over torqued according to the GM specs. Anyway, if we swap the bolts for 190K studs, this will add some clamping force to the area. So, that's what we are going to do to help the (2) bolt mains.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Just because it took 90ft lb to get the mains loosened doesn't mean that it was torqued to that spec. When tightening a bolt down if you stop in the middle of torqueing it down it takes 20-30 ft lbs more to get that same bolt moving again, same goes for removing it. I don't see the need for ARP hardware on a 305 for the little things you are doing to it. If you were putting an 88mm turbo in front of it, maybe but not for what you are doing. I'd just get new bolts from the parts store and be done with it.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

^^^

Yes, I know. Breakaway was 120 ft-# & I subtracted for an estimate. Am going to studs not so much for the higher yield stud, but more for the lack of twist or torquing within the block. The stud allows for just the vertical load to be transmitted into the block; not the vertical + torsional load that takes place when tightening a bolt into the tapped hole in the block. That's what was & is more appealing to me considering 2 bolt mains. Again ,the alarming thing was the difference between the condition of the rod journals compared to the main journals on the cam. Don't know for sure that it was 2 bolt main movement related, but the main journals were much worse.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

I think you are "over-thinking" this 305.

Sublime Dak

I agree. If it was me, I would wire wheel the main bolts, if no cracks are found, re-use them. Put new stock head bolts in it, and be done. You shouldn't have an issue re-using the stock main bolts in a little 305.

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

Maybe so, but none the less...

We got the studs for $29 & I struggle w/ the fact that all of my LS blocks all have 6 bolt mains. So, to see a block w/ 2 bolt mains simply freaks me out. Even if it is a little 305.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

Those motors have been coming like that since the sbc was introduced. 500hp builds have been done many times over on 2 bolt main blocks. So don't freak yourself out, you will not make enough power N/A to spin a bearing in that 2 bolt main block. Sounds like you are trying to use a bazooka to kill a fly, its not that serious.

Now if you putting the compression at 15.5:1 and putting on some 265cc 15* heads and a huge solid roller and plan on spinning it to 9600 rpms, then by all means 4 bolt splay it and use ARP hardware. I just don't see the need for ARP even if it was 29 bucks. 75 ftlbs is 75ft lbs no matter the fastener. Now if you are talking about bolt stretch, then thats different but I doubt you will stretch the stock bolts for what you are doing.

Sublime Dak

Seriously? lol Put it together and run it. 2 bolt blocks are easily good to 500hp. Stop worrying so much about an engine that will never be capable of reaching the two bolts limits anyways.

Kids today..

LS1-450

iTrader: (33)

I'm no kid. Thanks for the replies, all the same. It's not about reaching the limits of the bolts, it's about limiting the deflection of the cap, thereby reducing the clearance between the crank & the bearing. I understand that it's overkill & do appreciate the comments. Everything has been ordered w/the rod studs being the only "overkill". Should be a good little runner.

We ended up w/ close to 10:1 SCR w/a mild cam & LT headers. As noted, don't want to move so much air through it that it can't be tuned w/ fuel pressure & timing. Don't want to spend another few hundred on a new operating system.

Thanks again. Will complete the build maybe by the end of this coming weekend. Won't be installed & running 'till spring.

87silverbullet

iTrader: (11)

No matter what fasterner you put in there you still have the same bearing cap that was put there 25 years ago. You are talking about cap deflection but no matter the bolt it won't stop what you are trying to stop. You can use a titanium kryptonite impregnated bolt and it still won't stop what you are describing you are trying to stop because you are still using the same ol'cap.

If you used aftermarket billet mains then we are talking a different story since the cap is now made of a different material that is stronger.

In other words you are building a road race car with all the best suspension mods but then you put p155/60/r14 tires on the car.

Good luck with the build anyways man. If I ever need to build a house in an earthquake prone area I know who to contact. You will build it to withstand a 11.5 richter scale quake!