Brody

iTrader: (3)

Well, my brother purchased a 1970's 240z with a 305 TPI swap. The car always ran rich and now no longer starts. Obviously its likely fuel/spark. It's not a battery/starter issue.

I apologize that some of the details will be sketchy here. I'm a TPI novice and most of the diagnosis was over the phone.

Ran the little inline spark tester, and the coil is putting out spark. All 8 wires out of the distributor are getting spark. Plugs are new.

You can hear the fuel pump with the key in the on position. I thought I smelled fuel while turning it over with a plug out, but not 100% sure.

I couldn't get a part # off the ECU. His keys don't have the VATS chip, which I believe makes it an 85-89 ECU. Under his distributor he has an Accel 35362 Performance control Module.

Questions:
Where can I find the ECU/Engine part numbers so we know what was swapped in?
What is the likely culprit for this issue?
Where is the best place to ask TPI questions?

Thanks!

jmd

iTrader: (4)

the 86-89 interior ECM is a `165 and is smaller / has a differently located PROM window / fits where an early 80s ECM fits so you'll be able to tell it apart from a `730 90-92 interior ECM just by googling pics of each. There's also a `727 underhood ECM.

But, if the swap has a Bosch MAF, it is probably 86-89. If it has a MAP mounted to the plenum and no MAF, it's probably 90-92.

VATS was present before 89 so that's not a good tip-off and it can be deleted w/ resistors or in the PROM.

Hang a FP gauge on the rail.
thirdgen.org has a lot of TPI traffic.

j_tizzle_84

iTrader: (6)

just made the swap from a tpi car to ls1 not to long ago. need to know if it is a speed density or mass airflow system. best place to start is checking the fuel pressure. check that it builds pressure and holds pressure without a sudden drop when you turn the key off. if that is ok the i would check for injector pulse. there is 2 ways to do this get niod light from parts store or disconnect the injector connector and check for power on one wire. the wire that doesn't have power is signal wire. hook test light to positive battery terminal and probe signal wire while someone cranks the motor over and see if it flashes. do this and report back. swapped cars can be a nightmare. my buddy had same swap in 80 280zx thing was electrical nightmare.

Brody

iTrader: (3)

Sorry for the delay on getting back to you, but those posts were certainly VERY helpful!

Looks like we have 1990-1992 ECU, with no MAF.

What sort of fuel pressure should I be seeing?

I have an Actron CP7819 injector tester, so I should be able to check those.

indyboom

iTrader: (11)

You should have like 45-55 psi. Is the harness a factory or stand alone. If the pcm is delete its no issue. Are you sure the cam or t chain didnt die? Have the cap off and crank it. See if rotor moves. If you have fuel and spark id imagine your injectors are firing. If its 89 and uo you shouldnt have a 9th injector for cold start.

Tx91z28

pull a plug wire off, hold it close to the block/head (ground) and have someone crank the car, if it arcs to the head/block you have spark at the plugs and its a fuel issue.

if you have spark check fuel pressure (40-55psi), if thats good then your injectors aren't firing. when your cranking it, is the "security" light on on the dash? that is an indicator of a VATS issue. go on thirdgen.org to bypass vats.

also, you SHOULD* be able to hear/feel the injectors clicking when your cranking the motor.

also you said it was running rich, check your plugs to make sure they aren't gummed up