Timing Question
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12 Second Club
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From: Hamilton, New Jersey
Timing Question Alright guys I'm wondering something and I hope you can help. I finally got my motor back up and running in my car (355 sbc, all forged internals). I was told to drive it 500 miles before I could put it on the dyno to WOT test it. Well I drove it the first 300 miles, and never checked the timing because the guy who helped me get it running said it was good and I didn't have a light. Also, the car started up and ran great (part throttle around town driving). Well the other day I got a hold of a timing light, and the timing was wayyyyyyyyyyyyy too high. Like, 35 initial 55 total high. So I back it down to 35 total, and drove it last 200 miles. Today, I had it on the dyno and we got it dialed in really good. Idle/part/full throttle was all clean and the A/F was dead on at 12.9 at WOT. My question is this---did driving those 300 miles (no heavy load) with the high timing hurt the motor? It performed beautifully today and the guys at the shop said it was great.
Obviously there's nothing I can do at this point, I'm just wondering. Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can chime in on this. Thanks!
Obviously there's nothing I can do at this point, I'm just wondering. Sorry for the long post, but I hope someone can chime in on this. Thanks!
With no power adders your really not gonna be able to hurt a naturally asperated motor without constant abuse. Its fine dude.
On a lighter note how did it do on the dyno? Good as you expected or no?
On a lighter note how did it do on the dyno? Good as you expected or no?
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Thread Starter
12 Second Club
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 182
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From: Hamilton, New Jersey
Well here's the rundown-
84 Monte Carlo SS 3550 with me in it
-Drive it pretty much everyday! (weather permitting)
-Originally a ZZ4 Crate Motor, Holley 750 DP, RPM Air-Gap manifold, mild comp cam, bored .030, all forged internals
-Stock TH350C trans with a 3400 Yank converter (not right for the combo)
-3.90s with a 26" M/T DR
60's are the main problem now- best I can do is 1.80. Tried flashing the converter, stalling it up, nothing can get better than that.
Made peak torque at around 4500, max hp at around 6000. It only flashes to about 3000, slogs through the rpms, then wakes up around 4500. Best results shifting at 6200.
84 Monte Carlo SS 3550 with me in it
-Drive it pretty much everyday! (weather permitting)
-Originally a ZZ4 Crate Motor, Holley 750 DP, RPM Air-Gap manifold, mild comp cam, bored .030, all forged internals
-Stock TH350C trans with a 3400 Yank converter (not right for the combo)
-3.90s with a 26" M/T DR
60's are the main problem now- best I can do is 1.80. Tried flashing the converter, stalling it up, nothing can get better than that.
Made peak torque at around 4500, max hp at around 6000. It only flashes to about 3000, slogs through the rpms, then wakes up around 4500. Best results shifting at 6200.
the extra timing probably helped with break-in. the advanced timing resulted in higher cylinder pressures which is what seats the piston rings. Normally, with correct timing you run the motor hard and put a load on it to get the needed cylinder pressure to seat the rings. As long as you didn't have massive detonation that you could hear then your fine. minor detonation/pinging every now and then is not necessarily a bad thing, it doesn't cause damage provided you manage it
Thats great dude. You need to pull that converter and get it restalled to 4000. My 85 cutlass used to ****** the left front with a iron headed 383 with 3400 converter, 700r4 trans, 3.42 gears and rotten 28" et drags on a concrete bridge. It would cut mid to high 1.5 60's all day. You will get it right.
Ahh **** bro. So sorry to hear that. Your still posting so it could have been a whole lot worse. Go after her insurance company (assuming she has any) and you will have some extra play money then.
