Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

sbc 400 head help

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Old Aug 14, 2011 | 12:17 AM
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Cool sbc 400 head help

I am building a sbc 400 0.060 over with 4 valve pistions the pistion sits .037 in the hole at TDC the cam is a comp cam 292h-10 .501 .501 and the duration @ .050 is 244 244 I am going to run a 1.6 rocker my question is can I run a 64cc head with this combo I am looking at the dart pro 1 heads 200cc with 2.02 1.6 valves and want to run pump gas.
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Old Aug 20, 2011 | 04:32 PM
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Dart Pro 1's typically require work to be a nice head. I would suggest the Trick Flow 195cc with a 62cc chamber: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/TFS-30400002/ or the AFR 195cc with the 65cc chamber: http://www.airflowresearch.com/index.php?cPath=24_29
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 04:10 AM
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Just be careful about the steam ports. The factory heads flow real well IMO. I built mine for torque but milled the heads .020 with stainless valves. I have a 9.6-1 ratio, factory 2bbl intake and carb. I get 420 lb of tq. You can always port and polish then mill the block. I think we have the same pistons
Attached Thumbnails sbc 400 head help-dscf5574.jpg   sbc 400 head help-400-head.jpg   sbc 400 head help-400sbc.jpg  

Last edited by 64nova_wagon; Aug 21, 2011 at 04:31 AM.
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Old Aug 21, 2011 | 02:02 PM
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If you have the engine still apart I would look at getting the block decked.

Even with a shim gasket your quench is going to be .055 or more. With a cam that big you need more compression IMO. The tighter your quench is the more compression you can run without the risk of detonation. The tighter quench helps control detonation.

With you running aluminum heads that enables you to run more compression also as does the size of the cam.

With too low of compression it's going to be lazy down low and you will have to run a lot of ignition advance to help burn the fuel/air mixture. Running a lot of advance isn't a bad thing but it's kind of a band aid for low compression/higher quench.

I think it's around 125 bucks or so to have the block decked depending on the machine shop. Make sure the machine shop knows what they are doing and see how they deck the block. There are several ways to do it. The best being it is measured digitally off the crank center line to make sure the block is square. A machine shop screwed my block up when they decked it. The heads were further apart in the back compared to the front. The heads also turned in a clockwise motion too. In short they fubared my 400 block and i spent thousands of dollars in different intakes, gaskets and time trying to figure it out. I finally took it apart and took it to a different machine shop where they found out what the problem was.
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Old Aug 26, 2011 | 08:59 PM
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As suggested previously, I would run a TFS or AFR head. I have the 195 Eliminator's on mine but would opt for a 210 or 220 if I were to do it over.

10-1 pump gas 406 with the cam listed in my sig threw down 365rwhp/405 rwtq on a mustang dyno with tiny 1 5/8 headers on it. Peak tq was ~4500 RPM.
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Old Aug 27, 2011 | 12:36 AM
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Originally Posted by Razor
As suggested previously, I would run a TFS or AFR head. I have the 195 Eliminator's on mine but would opt for a 210 or 220 if I were to do it over.

10-1 pump gas 406 with the cam listed in my sig threw down 365rwhp/405 rwtq on a mustang dyno with tiny 1 5/8 headers on it. Peak tq was ~4500 RPM.
Agreed. After talking to Tony Mamo about building another 406 he suggested the 210 or the new 220's. I had the 195's on a 406 I built a few yesrs ago but the machine shop decked my block wrong and ruined the block. In a hast I sold everything and now wish I wouldn't have.

I know the LS engines make more power but I have always wanted to build a 406 for my 3rd gen T/A.
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