Project: SBC Formula T/A!
Project: SBC Formula T/A! Hey everyone! I am about to acquire a T-top Formula Trans/AM with a blown LT1 and want to do a SBC swap. I have read both stickied topics on doing the swap but I still have a few questions over it.
If turning car into a street car, how would I be able to setup all my stock gauges and ignition system to run off the SBC? I understand the speedo will probably not work considering it is a electronic 4l60E transmission, but are aftermarket gauges my best bet?
Also, what all accessories from the LT1 engine can be swapped over to my SBC, can alternator and all the pumps be used or is a different system suggested. I understand the LT1 engine mounts only use 2 bolts to hook up to the SBC, would a BMR K-Member be recommended?
I am getting the car DIRT cheap, only con is it needs a headliner! Any thoughts, tips, or suggestions on this build will be highly appreciated.
If turning car into a street car, how would I be able to setup all my stock gauges and ignition system to run off the SBC? I understand the speedo will probably not work considering it is a electronic 4l60E transmission, but are aftermarket gauges my best bet?
Also, what all accessories from the LT1 engine can be swapped over to my SBC, can alternator and all the pumps be used or is a different system suggested. I understand the LT1 engine mounts only use 2 bolts to hook up to the SBC, would a BMR K-Member be recommended?
I am getting the car DIRT cheap, only con is it needs a headliner! Any thoughts, tips, or suggestions on this build will be highly appreciated.
ok, well to use the gauges the fuel and volt will work all on their own. The oil and water temp can be hooked up to autometer sensors and will work but I never did because I have gauges in the air vents. To make the speedo work I hooked up the two wires from the vss to the wires that go directly to the cluster(i think its yellow and purple). I got lucky and it was spot on reading the speed. The tach I was able to get it to work with the msd dist. but it was about 200 RPM too high. I had to use a diode in line with the signal wire to get the tach to go above 3K. I had an aftermarket tach off to the side so it being 200 RPM off wasnt a big deal. I just didnt want it dead.
For accesories on the engine I used the serpentine brackets and all accesories from my '90 Camaro. You just have to rearrange the pwr steering lines but it will work just fine. You will have to rewire your fans as your computer will not be turning them on anymore. Using the 2 bolt mounting method works just fine for a street car. I drove mine like a mad man and it worked perfectly.
How are you going to control the trans though? Im not sure if the trans will work normal by itself.
For accesories on the engine I used the serpentine brackets and all accesories from my '90 Camaro. You just have to rearrange the pwr steering lines but it will work just fine. You will have to rewire your fans as your computer will not be turning them on anymore. Using the 2 bolt mounting method works just fine for a street car. I drove mine like a mad man and it worked perfectly.
How are you going to control the trans though? Im not sure if the trans will work normal by itself.
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Joined: Feb 2006
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From: Catlettsburg, Ky
On an lt1 car, the oil, volt, fuel and temp sender are independent of the computer. I just recently wired up my '95 formula for an LQ4, using a '99 harness, and ran all the sensor wires straight to the guage cluster (through the blue and white connectors in the passenger side kick panel)
A sbc and an LT1 have the same threads in the block and head for the oil and temp sender, you could probably re use the same sending units and wiring.
A sbc and an LT1 have the same threads in the block and head for the oil and temp sender, you could probably re use the same sending units and wiring.
I am still unsure about this one, without all the electronics being available the 4l60e seems pretty useless, I may try to get my hands on a 700r4 just so I can get over drive.
If you want an auto trans with OD that doesn't rely on electronics, look into the TH200 4R. Can be built to hold over 1000 RWHP, and 450~ HP versions are all over ebay.
It also has a better gear spread than the 700R4
It also has a better gear spread than the 700R4
Thanks for the note, I am lucky considering my dad was a Master Tech for GM for 24 years, specializing on transmissions and rearends so I can get him to build me a pretty strong drivetrain.
Haha yeah I bet that is very nice. Get a stocker and a rebuild kit then, it will cost so much less than buying a built one. The housing is interchangeable with most blocks, as it was used on an olds diesel, the vette and the GN at the time.
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...d/viewall.html
http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles...d/viewall.html
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OP I'd go this route if dropping the 4l60E for non-electronic trans with OD. Best part is, you can use an aftermarket TH400 crossmember with torque arm mount for the swap.
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Verdad Gallardo I am bumping this thread since I am hopefully picking up the trans am this weekend!
camaroboricua, how did you manage to get all your lights,ignition, and other electronics working? Never done a swap like this before so not sure if I would lose power to my turn signals and other electronics
camaroboricua, how did you manage to get all your lights,ignition, and other electronics working? Never done a swap like this before so not sure if I would lose power to my turn signals and other electronics
The lighting and all other electronics are controlled by the bcm which means they will work just fine even after removing the computer. Only ones you have to worry about are your gauges like mentioned before and you should be good to go. I just finished helping to do a v6 to 383 gen 1 firebird also. :-)
Will do! It is a green T-Top, from what my buddy says it has paint peeling on the bumper and the headliner is the only cons about it, besides the blown lt but thats an easy fix!
Yup doesnt seem you have T-tops? I am not sure what year it is exactly but it looks very clean, checked it out last night but it was behind a gated fence so hopefully he gets back soon for me to take a better look. I think he is letting it go for around $300 because of the blown lt1, so I am all over it!
Dang!!!! for 300 id go buy it myself! Mine has t-tops also. Its just kinda hard to see in the sig pic. check out the vid in my sig. you can notice them there ....I think.....
its a steal on my part, specially if i wont have to buy much to get my sbc to fit in place of the lt1! im looking to get the best clearance without having to cut much out of the firewall
I may have some big clearance issues, my intake is a high rise intake we use on dirt track racing and it helps torque a lot! Would it be recommended to get a low rise for better clearance? Or should I just try to get a different hood?
dependability, I know alot about the 1st gen small blocks and I have a lot of parts for it. I just do not like the opti design on the lt1's, I have always been a 1st gen kind of guy