How much HP from my 355?
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Curb weight on a '70 Chevelle is 3400 lbs with fluids. I had a similar 355 that made 263hp/310tq at the wheels. It won't be a record breaker but will be a fun ride with a 3.42 or 3.55 gear and peak torque down in the 3500 RPM range. 3.73 gets old at 70mph and above on the highway. An M22 has too high of a first gear (2.20) to run anything under a 3.42 at the bare minimum and be able to move out in first.
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I haven't figured out the whole gearing thing yet so bear with me but are you saying I should avoid the 3.73s? The only reason I was even looking at them is because the M22 I have was set up for a 3.73 rear gear. From what I have figured out, that is regarding the speedo gears in the trans. If I leave the 2.73s in the car, what would I do to fix the speedo gears?
I wouldn't leave the 2.73 in. Your first gear in the M22 would have you slipping the clutch a lot to get going. A 3.73 is fine and is typically the minimum gear someone would run with an M22 due to its 2.20 first gear. The gear set can be upgraded though to a lower (higher numberically) first to be able to run the M22 with less rear and cruise at a lower RPM. If you plan on taking trips at highway speed it gets old running 4k at 80mph.
Regarding the speedo issue, typically for every 5% off in speed you are you would change the driven gear on the speedo cable by 1 tooth. So if you had like a 22 tooth driven gear and read 77 when you were doing 70, you'd change the gear out to a 24 tooth. Going up drops indicated speed, going down increases.
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I wouldn't leave the 2.73 in. Your first gear in the M22 would have you slipping the clutch a lot to get going. A 3.73 is fine and is typically the minimum gear someone would run with an M22 due to its 2.20 first gear. The gear set can be upgraded though to a lower (higher numberically) first to be able to run the M22 with less rear and cruise at a lower RPM. If you plan on taking trips at highway speed it gets old running 4k at 80mph.
Regarding the speedo issue, typically for every 5% off in speed you are you would change the driven gear on the speedo cable by 1 tooth. So if you had like a 22 tooth driven gear and read 77 when you were doing 70, you'd change the gear out to a 24 tooth. Going up drops indicated speed, going down increases.
Regarding the speedo issue, typically for every 5% off in speed you are you would change the driven gear on the speedo cable by 1 tooth. So if you had like a 22 tooth driven gear and read 77 when you were doing 70, you'd change the gear out to a 24 tooth. Going up drops indicated speed, going down increases.
I'll figure out the speedo when I drive it. I still don't know exactly what wheels and tires I am going to run so that would change it as well.
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An M22Z gearset would make the 2.73 feel about like a 3.73 in first gear and retain nice cruising in fourth gear. If your highway speed is 70mph or so it is livable with a 3.73 just not fun for long. I've run an M20 with a 3.42, 3.73, and a 4.10. They all got old on the highway which is why I went to a TKO.
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That's the dilemma of a non-OD four speed. Hard to set up a car for everything with one. The M21 and M22 close ratios were designed to run with lower rear gears in an era of a 55mph speed limit without regards to fuel economy or driver comfort. An M20 wide ratio has a deeper first gear at 2.52.
An M22Z gearset would make the 2.73 feel about like a 3.73 in first gear and retain nice cruising in fourth gear. If your highway speed is 70mph or so it is livable with a 3.73 just not fun for long. I've run an M20 with a 3.42, 3.73, and a 4.10. They all got old on the highway which is why I went to a TKO.
An M22Z gearset would make the 2.73 feel about like a 3.73 in first gear and retain nice cruising in fourth gear. If your highway speed is 70mph or so it is livable with a 3.73 just not fun for long. I've run an M20 with a 3.42, 3.73, and a 4.10. They all got old on the highway which is why I went to a TKO.
I was going to go with a TKO 5 speed but decided against it. I only do a few miles a day on the freeway and a lot of it is stop and go so maybe it won't be that bad.
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Yeah, it's not bad for short periods. I set my car up to run highway speed and do some distance so the OD was needed, also added cruise control. Did 400 miles last weekend driving down to and around Atlanta. It was a 4 speed 3.73 for 16 of the 20 years I've owned it though.
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Yeah, it's not bad for short periods. I set my car up to run highway speed and do some distance so the OD was needed, also added cruise control. Did 400 miles last weekend driving down to and around Atlanta. It was a 4 speed 3.73 for 16 of the 20 years I've owned it though.
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That's the dilemma of a non-OD four speed. Hard to set up a car for everything with one. The M21 and M22 close ratios were designed to run with lower rear gears in an era of a 55mph speed limit without regards to fuel economy or driver comfort. An M20 wide ratio has a deeper first gear at 2.52.
An M22Z gearset would make the 2.73 feel about like a 3.73 in first gear and retain nice cruising in fourth gear. If your highway speed is 70mph or so it is livable with a 3.73 just not fun for long. I've run an M20 with a 3.42, 3.73, and a 4.10. They all got old on the highway which is why I went to a TKO.
An M22Z gearset would make the 2.73 feel about like a 3.73 in first gear and retain nice cruising in fourth gear. If your highway speed is 70mph or so it is livable with a 3.73 just not fun for long. I've run an M20 with a 3.42, 3.73, and a 4.10. They all got old on the highway which is why I went to a TKO.
I've also found that with 3.73 gears and the final 1 to 1 ratio trannies, it means close to 3000rpms at 60mph with a 25 inch tire. A stock 5 quart oil pan and hi volume oil pump will scavenge all the oil from the pan causing zero oil pressure while cruising at highway speed. Plan on a 7 quart pan or regular oil pump.
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I was thinking of going with the Nittto NT555 295/45 R18 for my rear tire which is around 28", same as the tires that are on my car now. At 60 MPH, that means my drive shaft will be turning about 2,675 RPM. Unless I made a math error, that doesn't seem too bad.
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I'm very impressed. I like the Black and red stripes. Different from the usual red with black stripes. I've always believed the late 60's early 70's Chevelle should have a 4speed and deep gears. Ever consider a 434 smallblock and a Dominator series carb? LOL About a 1050cfm should fit the bill.
Brian
Brian
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I'm very impressed. I like the Black and red stripes. Different from the usual red with black stripes. I've always believed the late 60's early 70's Chevelle should have a 4speed and deep gears. Ever consider a 434 smallblock and a Dominator series carb? LOL About a 1050cfm should fit the bill.
Brian
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If I was to do it all over and had the money, I would do an LS swap.
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I built a 355 for my 96 Camaro this is a gen 1 motor alm head 584/584 230/238 110 cam 10.5 pistons scat bottom end 750 proform carb it made 444hp 460ftlbs on spray iam right at 600
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Well yours is built up more than mine. How does it run? Would it work on the street or is it a 1/4 mile only car?
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