Need help. Converting 327 to 383 striker
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I have a 1968 Chevelle that has a 327 in it with doubled humped heads that are ported, aluminum rolling rockers, bored .30 over, aluminum intake, and a 4 barrel Holley carb. I was wanting to make it faster and more powerful by turning it into a 383 stroker. I have a power glide transmission with a 2800 stall converter and a 10 bolt rear end with 3.73 gear ratio. What kind of camshaft, carb, pistons and rods, stall converter would anyone recommend?
Last edited by schaefer24; 07-03-2013 at 02:54 PM.
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Well with your typical stroker crankshaft (3.75 in stroke) you're not gonna get 383 ci out of a 327 ci block bored .030 over. You're starting with less cubes than your normal 350.
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Also you will need to make sure your current block is a large journal and not a small. You can still do it with a small journal block you just are not gonna have as many options on the crank
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Ok. Yes I have a large journal. Will I need to take my block to get machined or will I be able to grind the block a little bit for the crank to clear? I was also wondering what kind of camshaft I should get to match everything, and carb?
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I'd spend the 150 buck and have a machine shop clearance the block for you. You'll be able to use your current rods but new 383 pistons will be a needed do to wrist pin location on the 327 slugs.
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I built a 383 myself not too long ago. I used a scat rotating assembly with hyperteuitec pistons. My crank is the series 9000 and 4340 I beam rods. The biggest problem with a stroker is the rod to cam clearance. You have to be careful with rod selection and even then they will need to be clearenced. Most people will advise that you use a small base circle cam, which only helps the problem. As far as cams go a roller is better but depends on the budget. I originally used a hydraulic flat tappet lunati voodoo cam with about 500 lift and 230 @ .050 lift. now I got a roller with 230 @ .050 lift and .575 peak lift. Your heads will have to be setup up for your cam. I had a shop machine my block and balance everything and then I assembled it. I'm happy with the scat kit, I had this motor in a dirt car for a season and then put it in my street strip car.
As far as carbs and intake go, a 750 double pumper and edelebrock air gap intake are hard to beat.
As far as carbs and intake go, a 750 double pumper and edelebrock air gap intake are hard to beat.
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I know that I'm kinda late to this discussion; however, because there are three (3) different type of piston/rod combinations for the 383 (i.e., with the stock 400 5.565" rod; stock Chevy 5.7" rod, and aftermarket 6" rods), you may want to get a complete rotating assembly rather than just buy the parts separately. That way you'll know for sure that your pistons have the correct compression height for the rods that you're using.
One other item, be sure to mock up the rotating assembly in the block with the cam you're going to use to make sure that there isn't any interference between the block, rods, and cam. Even using "matched" rotating assemblies I've seen interference problems crop up during this type of check.
Good luck with your 383 build!
One other item, be sure to mock up the rotating assembly in the block with the cam you're going to use to make sure that there isn't any interference between the block, rods, and cam. Even using "matched" rotating assemblies I've seen interference problems crop up during this type of check.
Good luck with your 383 build!
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Last edited by mr.beachcomber; 08-09-2013 at 08:33 AM. Reason: Deleted an errrant "smilie" I inadvertently added to the original post!
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buy 350 rods already redone with good bolts AND clearance & balanced way cheaper than you can get yours done . also they will have bigger/stronger bolts than your 327 rods. even though you are not ruining the block you should consider finding a good 67-77 350 block(thickwall) to start with. your large journal 327 was a 2 year only engine that may be worth good $ to someone. crossy
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