Interesting Story That Needs Expert Help
Interesting Story That Needs Expert Help I'll get to the point quickly, I promise.
My best friends father was restoring a late 70s Z28 Camaro back when we were in 5th grade. Tragically, he died in the middle of the project. My friend still has the vehicle, which was literally gutted, and is wanting to either continue the restoration in his fathers footsteps, or pull the engine/trans to add to another car.
Here is my question:
This engine has not turned over since 1993. From what we know, it was professionally blueprinted, built, dynoed, etc back then. We have a receipt for the work done to it.
What would you do before trying to crank it over? I have not inspected anything yet as far as popping heads off, seeing if oil was in it, etc. It literally is left just how his dad left it when he died. The setup has been stored indoors since '93.
Also, any way to identify age/vintage of the engine. I am 95% sure it is a normal 350 chevy that was built for a drag setup in the early 90s. HP I'm guessing was probably around 350ish...
The point is my buddy isn't as much of a car guy as I am, but I am going to work him through this so we can kind of honor his dad and remember him. I think it'd be awesome to have him continue where his Dad left off. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
My best friends father was restoring a late 70s Z28 Camaro back when we were in 5th grade. Tragically, he died in the middle of the project. My friend still has the vehicle, which was literally gutted, and is wanting to either continue the restoration in his fathers footsteps, or pull the engine/trans to add to another car.
Here is my question:
This engine has not turned over since 1993. From what we know, it was professionally blueprinted, built, dynoed, etc back then. We have a receipt for the work done to it.
What would you do before trying to crank it over? I have not inspected anything yet as far as popping heads off, seeing if oil was in it, etc. It literally is left just how his dad left it when he died. The setup has been stored indoors since '93.
Also, any way to identify age/vintage of the engine. I am 95% sure it is a normal 350 chevy that was built for a drag setup in the early 90s. HP I'm guessing was probably around 350ish...
The point is my buddy isn't as much of a car guy as I am, but I am going to work him through this so we can kind of honor his dad and remember him. I think it'd be awesome to have him continue where his Dad left off. Any help or ideas would be appreciated. Thanks!
Pull the spark plugs, spark some WD 40 in the cylinders. Pull the distributor and primp the oil pump. See if it will spin over. If it spins over, put it back together and see if you cna get it to start.
That is awesome to hear. I'm hoping we have the same luck.
The whole thing is kind of shrouded in mystery because we were both too young to remember where he left off and his death was very sudden, so it's not like he left notes..
The whole thing is kind of shrouded in mystery because we were both too young to remember where he left off and his death was very sudden, so it's not like he left notes..
Only thing that could cause damage is rust on the cylinder walls. You might be able to peek through the plug hole with a good light and see. Other than that, priming and WD-40 or marvel mystery as already mentioned and it should light right up.
Ok thanks for the tip. I know the last time I saw it sitting in the corner of the garage, I noticed the intake manifold wasn't bolted on correctly. The heads though looked solidly on there.
Tonight will reveal more... I'll post some progress as we go along. We are going to move it to his new garage so he can get started messing around.
Tonight will reveal more... I'll post some progress as we go along. We are going to move it to his new garage so he can get started messing around.
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Car was moved out of the resting spot. The wheels actually turn and I did some digging into the engine.
It is a small block, weiand intake, holley carb sitting on top, not bolted down, no plugs in, one long tube installed, starter is on it and tranny is bolted up.
Any ideas on how/where to get the serial # off the engine to figure out the vintage of the engine? Next step is to move the car to my friends new house, then pull the engine and get it running on an engine stand. I'm kind of excited to hear the thing actually run.
It is a small block, weiand intake, holley carb sitting on top, not bolted down, no plugs in, one long tube installed, starter is on it and tranny is bolted up.
Any ideas on how/where to get the serial # off the engine to figure out the vintage of the engine? Next step is to move the car to my friends new house, then pull the engine and get it running on an engine stand. I'm kind of excited to hear the thing actually run.
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Verdad Gallardo Car was moved out of the resting spot. The wheels actually turn and I did some digging into the engine.
It is a small block, weiand intake, holley carb sitting on top, not bolted down, no plugs in, one long tube installed, starter is on it and tranny is bolted up.
Any ideas on how/where to get the serial # off the engine to figure out the vintage of the engine? Next step is to move the car to my friends new house, then pull the engine and get it running on an engine stand. I'm kind of excited to hear the thing actually run.
It is a small block, weiand intake, holley carb sitting on top, not bolted down, no plugs in, one long tube installed, starter is on it and tranny is bolted up.
Any ideas on how/where to get the serial # off the engine to figure out the vintage of the engine? Next step is to move the car to my friends new house, then pull the engine and get it running on an engine stand. I'm kind of excited to hear the thing actually run.
Get the codes on the location of the arrows...if you give me those numbers I can decode what you have
Ok good information - thanks for that tip. I will see whats what and post the results.
I believe the next step is to move the car to the new garage, then start on pulling the engine/trans.
If I posted a pic of the automatic transmission would you guys be able to help ID it? Thanks so much!
I believe the next step is to move the car to the new garage, then start on pulling the engine/trans.
If I posted a pic of the automatic transmission would you guys be able to help ID it? Thanks so much!
before you rotate the crank, i would pull the distributor and use an oil priming tool and an electric drill and prime the oiling system. that way the crank bearings get flooded with oil before it moves. then pull the spark plugs, and i would squirt some fogging oil into each cylinder then rotate the crank by hand and make sure it rotates smoothly. then you can put the distributor back in, crank it over via starter and measure cranking compression on each cylinder so you know.
you need to check if it has a roller camshaft or a flat tappet cam.
if the thing has a flat tappet cam and it's brand new, then you need to break that in properly on first start up and might need an oil with extra zddp break in additive. so i wouldn't go cranking it over a lot prior to startup, who knows if the cam lobes were coated in a grease paste for break in that's still on there, or if liquid assembly lube was used which i don't know after 20 years if it would still protect as well. you said it was professionally built and blueprinted, so when that has happened what casting numbers that are on the block and head doesn't necessarily tell you what your compression is, what octane gas you need to run, and so on. you need the receipts and documents from the builder for what was done to the engine. and there's no way of knowing valve spring pressures unless it's documented from the builder, or you go and measure it. that will be one of the most important things to know since engine oil today is API bla bla which has far less additives in it and is meant for roller camshafts and not flat tappets. if the motor was truly built and has heavy springs you're likely to run into cam lobe and lifter wear unless you use modified engine oil.
you need to check if it has a roller camshaft or a flat tappet cam.
if the thing has a flat tappet cam and it's brand new, then you need to break that in properly on first start up and might need an oil with extra zddp break in additive. so i wouldn't go cranking it over a lot prior to startup, who knows if the cam lobes were coated in a grease paste for break in that's still on there, or if liquid assembly lube was used which i don't know after 20 years if it would still protect as well. you said it was professionally built and blueprinted, so when that has happened what casting numbers that are on the block and head doesn't necessarily tell you what your compression is, what octane gas you need to run, and so on. you need the receipts and documents from the builder for what was done to the engine. and there's no way of knowing valve spring pressures unless it's documented from the builder, or you go and measure it. that will be one of the most important things to know since engine oil today is API bla bla which has far less additives in it and is meant for roller camshafts and not flat tappets. if the motor was truly built and has heavy springs you're likely to run into cam lobe and lifter wear unless you use modified engine oil.
Last edited by 1 FMF; Nov 27, 2013 at 06:57 PM.
Lots of great info there ^^^^^^^^
to add to that once you are able to turn the motor over by hand. take the valve covers off and rotate the engine, by hand, while a friend primes the oil pump. this will get the oil everywhere it needs to be , you will notice as it get easier to turn. now the reason the valve covers are off, do not stop until all of the rocker arms are showing oil travel. this will prime the lifters that have been stored with the valves open. if you notice a valve not opening you may have a collapsed lifter and that will need to be replaced.
to add to that once you are able to turn the motor over by hand. take the valve covers off and rotate the engine, by hand, while a friend primes the oil pump. this will get the oil everywhere it needs to be , you will notice as it get easier to turn. now the reason the valve covers are off, do not stop until all of the rocker arms are showing oil travel. this will prime the lifters that have been stored with the valves open. if you notice a valve not opening you may have a collapsed lifter and that will need to be replaced.
Ok thanks so much for those tips as well. Like I said it is still sitting in the vehicle right now. We will know more once we pull the engine and see what's going on.
The valve covers aren't bolted on and the plugs aren't installed either. I think we are going to pull the heads and check the cylinder walls, etc.
Should be interesting, not really knowing how/what the engine was built like. I'm hoping for my buddy he will be able to hear it run and maybe install it in another car and drive it just to say he drove his Dad's engine. That would be ideal... News to follow in the coming months
Thanks!
The valve covers aren't bolted on and the plugs aren't installed either. I think we are going to pull the heads and check the cylinder walls, etc.
Should be interesting, not really knowing how/what the engine was built like. I'm hoping for my buddy he will be able to hear it run and maybe install it in another car and drive it just to say he drove his Dad's engine. That would be ideal... News to follow in the coming months
Thanks! Quick update, and I'll post some pics next -
Car was successfully moved to my friends new garage/house. We rented a Uhaul car hauler and pulled it with my Trailblazer SS.
The next step is to start the process of engine/trans removal. There isn't much of the front end installed on the car so it shouldn't be too difficult to pull the entire assembly out as one.
I'll post some pics and my next update soon.
Car was successfully moved to my friends new garage/house. We rented a Uhaul car hauler and pulled it with my Trailblazer SS.
The next step is to start the process of engine/trans removal. There isn't much of the front end installed on the car so it shouldn't be too difficult to pull the entire assembly out as one.
I'll post some pics and my next update soon.