283 Distributor
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Utah
283 Distributor Thanks for the help on the PCV issue I think I have that one figured out. The next issue is the distributor and what are some of the options for that. In my boys jeep and on the 6 cylinder in my other 66 that I drive we have the HEI distributors. I am not sure how much I like those they work OK but I was reading one time that there is a better way to get rid of you points. Summit Racing has a solid-state ignition how good are they. Here is a link: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/pn...make/chevrolet
Thanks
Rocky
Thanks
Rocky
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
I agree with V8sten, just switch your points over to solid state electronics.
You didn't say whether your current distributor had a cast iron or aluminum body. The really early models (and all Corvettes through '73) have a cast iron body. Some have a connection for a cable tach drive while others don't. Thess distributors must be rebuilt to preclude future problem. The later model aluminum models have no provision for a tach drive; however, it wouldn't hurt to make sure everything is working properly, and re-set the end clearance.
One item to check is the upper and lower brass shaft bearings. On really high mileage Chevy distributors, this bearing can develop a goose egg wearing pattern that will affect you cylinder to cylinder timing. If they're worn out, it's a simple fix to drive out the old bearings and replace them with new ones. (The bearings must then be honed to fit your distributor shaft. You can have your local machine shop do it if need be.)
You didn't say whether your current distributor had a cast iron or aluminum body. The really early models (and all Corvettes through '73) have a cast iron body. Some have a connection for a cable tach drive while others don't. Thess distributors must be rebuilt to preclude future problem. The later model aluminum models have no provision for a tach drive; however, it wouldn't hurt to make sure everything is working properly, and re-set the end clearance.
One item to check is the upper and lower brass shaft bearings. On really high mileage Chevy distributors, this bearing can develop a goose egg wearing pattern that will affect you cylinder to cylinder timing. If they're worn out, it's a simple fix to drive out the old bearings and replace them with new ones. (The bearings must then be honed to fit your distributor shaft. You can have your local machine shop do it if need be.)
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Dec 2014
Posts: 11
Likes: 0
From: Utah
Hi beachcomer
I read the Wikipedia about PCV valves and it was really interesting I am going to put a new one on my boys jeep today. All these years I new you had to have it but I didn't know way. Well I knew it was for smog control but there is more to it then that.
On to the distributor: I think mine is aluminum but not sure so I am sending a picture.
Also oil came out of the vacuum advance canister, you know were the rubber hose attaches is there suppose to be oil in there.
Thanks
I read the Wikipedia about PCV valves and it was really interesting I am going to put a new one on my boys jeep today. All these years I new you had to have it but I didn't know way. Well I knew it was for smog control but there is more to it then that.
On to the distributor: I think mine is aluminum but not sure so I am sending a picture.
Also oil came out of the vacuum advance canister, you know were the rubber hose attaches is there suppose to be oil in there.
Thanks
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
What you have is the standard, single point, aluminum distributor that preceded the HEI. It's a good distributor and parts are available to convert it to a true electronic ignition. The unit shouldn't have any oil in the vacuum advance canister, so you'll need to check out how oil got in there. (If the internal seal is broken, oil can be sucked in from around the distributor shaft.)
With the cap off, you should be able to hook up a Mity-Vac or similar tool to the vacuum advance's nipple and apply about 8"-15" of vacuum to move the base plate. If the internal seal is gone, the distributor's base plate shouldn't move at all.
The canister is easily replaced as the actuation arm drops into a hole in the base plate while the unit itself is secured by two screws. Chevy made all kinds of vacuum canisters that actuated a various manifold vacuum points. You also can buy a tunable unit that allows you to measure your engine's vacuum from idle to cruise to choose a vacuum curve to suit your engine.
Hope this helps!
With the cap off, you should be able to hook up a Mity-Vac or similar tool to the vacuum advance's nipple and apply about 8"-15" of vacuum to move the base plate. If the internal seal is gone, the distributor's base plate shouldn't move at all.
The canister is easily replaced as the actuation arm drops into a hole in the base plate while the unit itself is secured by two screws. Chevy made all kinds of vacuum canisters that actuated a various manifold vacuum points. You also can buy a tunable unit that allows you to measure your engine's vacuum from idle to cruise to choose a vacuum curve to suit your engine.
Hope this helps!
Staging Lane
Joined: Sep 2012
Posts: 85
Likes: 0
From: Virginia Beach, VA
If you click on "tunable unit" in my message above yours, there's a link back to Jeg's for an Accel tunable vacuum canister. Also try Jeg's for small distributor parts such as shims, spacers, centrifugal advance kits, etc. If you need more than that, try Paragon Corvette Reproductions. They have parts to rebuild parts; however, they're expensive as they're Corvette reproduction items.
Since I'm familiar with Corvettes, most of my sources are Corvette reproduction dealers; however, Camaros, Chevelles, and other Chevy muscle cars used the aluminum distributor so there should be a source for those parts from someone like Year One I would think.
Since I'm familiar with Corvettes, most of my sources are Corvette reproduction dealers; however, Camaros, Chevelles, and other Chevy muscle cars used the aluminum distributor so there should be a source for those parts from someone like Year One I would think.
