427 SBC project
427 SBC project I've been working with the machine shop putting together some plans for a 427 SBC.
Going to have the shop do the balancing and clearancing. And then I will assemble.
Starting with a new Dart SHP block.
All forged internals. 11.5 to 1 compression.
Brodix dragon slayer heads.
Hydraulic roller cam. specs are still up in the air depending on if I go gas or e-85.
Lyons speed warrior dual plane intake. and Holley ultra 750 carb.
Hoping to make 650 hp naturally aspirated.
I been reading about some others have done it, so we will see.
I'm not apposed to upping the comp ratio and setting up for e-85 if we have to.
What do you think?
Anyone else done this?
Any advice?
Going to have the shop do the balancing and clearancing. And then I will assemble.
Starting with a new Dart SHP block.
All forged internals. 11.5 to 1 compression.
Brodix dragon slayer heads.
Hydraulic roller cam. specs are still up in the air depending on if I go gas or e-85.
Lyons speed warrior dual plane intake. and Holley ultra 750 carb.
Hoping to make 650 hp naturally aspirated.
I been reading about some others have done it, so we will see.
I'm not apposed to upping the comp ratio and setting up for e-85 if we have to.
What do you think?
Anyone else done this?
Any advice?
I have a 427 in my car, it's a bluepoint long block. Currently it's just as delivered minus I've swapped between a bowtie single plane for vortec style heads and now I'm on a conventional victor jr, has had a holley 750DP on top the whole time. I'm at 10.0:1 and all forged internals, makes 540 at the crank. Your plan sounds like a pretty decent little set up, 11.5 might be pushing the pump gas threshold a little bit depending on your dynamic CR and cam selection though. If this will be strictly a track car or just to the corner and back I'd probably more heavily consider e-85 and go all out. That way you can get a good supply of fuel and not have to check for ethanol content constantly if you're out trying to street drive it.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Yuma,AZ
I am new to the forum, I mostly do BBC and SBC stuff. The LS stuff is something i do sporadically, so I got on here to learn what I can.
I have done a few of these over the years. I have a 434 in my eng room being built with a Little M block right now.
Your combo is a bit compromised to get to 650hp, is it to fit a budget?
Or are you trying for a certain e.t.?
I have done a few of these over the years. I have a 434 in my eng room being built with a Little M block right now.
Your combo is a bit compromised to get to 650hp, is it to fit a budget?
Or are you trying for a certain e.t.?
Your combo is a bit compromised to get to 650hp, is it to fit a budget?
You know thats kind of what I've been thinkin.
Doing a small block fits my budget. But I've got a feeling I will be disappointed with the results.
Shop kind of blew me off too. I think they're more into LS stuff.
I'm currently running a forged bottom end LS3 block with a 4.1" crank (427). It put down 550/502 whp with a T-56 and 4.10 gears. The cam and heads that I'm currently running aren't crazy over the top (239/252 111 lsa, .620/.596 , PRC LS6 2.5) but does pretty good for now. It's 11.6-1 also.
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This is going into a 78 gen 2 camaro.
Open comp class is handicap sort of racing. You get 3 qualifiers and knock .2 from your best run and that becomes your "bracket" for elimination rounds.
When I say "disappointed" I mean I don't want to build a car that when I'm done I find myself feeling like its the car that is holding me back.
I want to build a car that leaves me feeling like its me that is holding the car back. In other words the car is capable of more than I'm giving it. That way as I learn and improve the car will improve with me.
I only have 20k to work with right now, and I can't spend it all on the motor. Idealy I would like to use 10k on the motor.
Not sure which direction I'm going to go right now. If I had another 10k it would really help.
Open comp class is handicap sort of racing. You get 3 qualifiers and knock .2 from your best run and that becomes your "bracket" for elimination rounds.
When I say "disappointed" I mean I don't want to build a car that when I'm done I find myself feeling like its the car that is holding me back.
I want to build a car that leaves me feeling like its me that is holding the car back. In other words the car is capable of more than I'm giving it. That way as I learn and improve the car will improve with me.
I only have 20k to work with right now, and I can't spend it all on the motor. Idealy I would like to use 10k on the motor.
Not sure which direction I'm going to go right now. If I had another 10k it would really help.
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Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Yuma,AZ
To a point I agree with biketopia. Depending on how experienced you are at tuning the chassis and converter. All that power can be a bad thing without hooking up.
But, the original 427 sbc idea could get you into 9 second territory with a well sorted light car and a real converter.
The LS shines in engine management, and great potential from the stock parts. The engine management system is what allows you to run boost so easily. A iron 5.3, better yet a 6.0 forged pistons and decent rods and go for it on a reasonable budget.
I have and ls2 in my sand rail built like that, I added trickflow non cnc heads when I rebuilt it a few years ago. It has a gm hot cam because it was in when I bought it, still put down 940 whp at 15psi on race gas through a sequential tranny.
It is the most pain free fast motor i have ever owned. I rebuilt it as pm, it was really fine anyway. Idles pretty smooth and hassle free. I check springs every season but no issues...
But, the original 427 sbc idea could get you into 9 second territory with a well sorted light car and a real converter.
The LS shines in engine management, and great potential from the stock parts. The engine management system is what allows you to run boost so easily. A iron 5.3, better yet a 6.0 forged pistons and decent rods and go for it on a reasonable budget.
I have and ls2 in my sand rail built like that, I added trickflow non cnc heads when I rebuilt it a few years ago. It has a gm hot cam because it was in when I bought it, still put down 940 whp at 15psi on race gas through a sequential tranny.
It is the most pain free fast motor i have ever owned. I rebuilt it as pm, it was really fine anyway. Idles pretty smooth and hassle free. I check springs every season but no issues...
I say that and I spent a bunch of money and put a carbed small block in my 4th gen. I already set it up for that, but hindsight being 20/20 and what not I probably should of bit the bullet, changed platforms and gone LS, would of probably been the same or even less money in the end.
I found this on line. Kind of curious. This is definitely in my budget. Anyone here deal with Skip White Performance?
I priced out parts for a similar build and the parts alone were almost 9K. And still have to put it together.
GM performance crate ZZ572/720R cost like 15K.
https://www.racingjunk.com/BBC-compl...&np_offset=4#2
I was thinking for that price even if I wasn't happy with the heads and cam I could try something else down the road. But for now I could do something like this and have it up and running next spring.
I priced out parts for a similar build and the parts alone were almost 9K. And still have to put it together.
GM performance crate ZZ572/720R cost like 15K.
https://www.racingjunk.com/BBC-compl...&np_offset=4#2
I was thinking for that price even if I wasn't happy with the heads and cam I could try something else down the road. But for now I could do something like this and have it up and running next spring.
Teching In
Joined: Jul 2019
Posts: 5
Likes: 1
From: Yuma,AZ
I have ordered parts from them and they were fine and as described, but this is a different thing altogether.
You are correct in that is a lot of parts for the money, I read through it. I would pay to have it Dyno'd for that $350...best money ever spent.
I would have them dyno it past peak hp at least 500 rpm.
6500 rpm is around 4667 fpm piston speed avg, doable with arp 200 bolts drag racing.
The bbc has a heavy valvetrain, so they put lazy lobes on it to keep it in check. I get that, but the rpm after you shift is what you are concerned with.
They cut the dyno short on RPM's for a reason, might be because they lost control of the valvetrain shortly thereafter and they would not want to warranty that.
Ask them, maybe they can upgrade to a tool steel retainer or a better spring etc.
That "no converter" talk is incorrect if you want to race it. Even if its a street strip put a 4l80 behind it with a high end lock up converter, stalled at a number at peak torque or higher to begin with, gears depending on the tire but figure 6500 rpm at the stripe locked up and hold on....
The oil level thing is sound advice on any engine. It adds some credibility to the ad i guess...
The car would need a full cage, subframe connectors, a very decent rear suspension etc. Also a Dominator and fuel system to feed it....
You are correct in that is a lot of parts for the money, I read through it. I would pay to have it Dyno'd for that $350...best money ever spent.
I would have them dyno it past peak hp at least 500 rpm.
6500 rpm is around 4667 fpm piston speed avg, doable with arp 200 bolts drag racing.
The bbc has a heavy valvetrain, so they put lazy lobes on it to keep it in check. I get that, but the rpm after you shift is what you are concerned with.
They cut the dyno short on RPM's for a reason, might be because they lost control of the valvetrain shortly thereafter and they would not want to warranty that.
Ask them, maybe they can upgrade to a tool steel retainer or a better spring etc.
That "no converter" talk is incorrect if you want to race it. Even if its a street strip put a 4l80 behind it with a high end lock up converter, stalled at a number at peak torque or higher to begin with, gears depending on the tire but figure 6500 rpm at the stripe locked up and hold on....
The oil level thing is sound advice on any engine. It adds some credibility to the ad i guess...
The car would need a full cage, subframe connectors, a very decent rear suspension etc. Also a Dominator and fuel system to feed it....