454 is in 95 Z-28
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454 is in 95 Z-28
I got my 454 BBC in my 95 Z yesterday. Of course you can tell by the photo's I went in through the bottom. This payed off really well because I had to lift the car about 4-5 times to do some modifications on my firewall on the drivers side. It wasn't too bad. Only took me about 5 hours and that was having to make room for the bigger motor too. Putting an LT or LS-1 back in this way shouldn't take an hour or so.
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Yes thats the final resting place for the engine. It doesn't sit any further back than an LT or LS motor. The only bad thing is if I need to change the distribitur I'll have to drop the k- member, trans and motor.
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i dunno maybe its just the angle of the picture...or that it doesnt have the radiator or fans and im just seeing that big empty space in front of the motor. How much clearance do you have between the carb and the cowl?
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The space looks big because of the radiator and fan not being there. Once I get those in there and hook up all my hoses, gas lines and MSD it'll be a little more crowed.
I've got just enough room to get my carb in there. But I'm going to have to losen the six bolts holding the K-member on so that I can get it in there. The studs on my intake is what's making that difficult.
I've got just enough room to get my carb in there. But I'm going to have to losen the six bolts holding the K-member on so that I can get it in there. The studs on my intake is what's making that difficult.
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Yeah I figured space might be an issue, especially after I saw those studs. Looks like a pretty sweet project man. How much room do you ACTUALLY have in there with that big rat between the shock towers. I can imagine header installs/spark plug/wire changes to be a MAJOR pain in the tail. I guess its nothing a 12 pack of beer and a couple bloody knuckles cant handle.
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if you had been able to go efi, the 4 barrel t-bodies are about 1/2 the thickness of a carb. and definately pull the studs and put in bolts, or put the studs in after the carb if you must have them. and if you don't plan on spinning the motor past 6500rpm, i'd swap the intake for a lower profile Edelbrock Performer RPM standard or "air gap" dual plane manifold. that will net you a bit more clearance as well as more bottom end grunt if it's not a high winder. and don't they make a low profile dist. now? may be worth looking into if you have to drop the motor again. either way, congrats on getting it in there. that's further than most of us got with our bbc/sbc swaps! lol. keep us posted on further progress.
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Originally Posted by GrannySShifting
Why didn't you go with a crank trigger ignition system? No distributor to mess around with that is inaccessible while the motor is in the car.
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Thats kinda how my small block is, but I thought the carb on a big block sits more forward than a small block. Looks good, did you modify the air box or get rid of it completely.
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THe carb does sit back a little but I think it has a little to do with the way the intake is made.
As for the distributer I thought about a low profile one, but the one I've got is in perfect shape and I can make it fit so I figured why spend the money on that when I can put it else where and to better use.
As for the distributer I thought about a low profile one, but the one I've got is in perfect shape and I can make it fit so I figured why spend the money on that when I can put it else where and to better use.
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Im a big fan of Crank Triggers. Im gonna be running one as on my BBC build which is coming along slowly.
what modifications did you make to the firewall?? any pics??
What are you going to be running for Headers?
-john
what modifications did you make to the firewall?? any pics??
What are you going to be running for Headers?
-john
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I just had to beat in on the firewall right behind the drivers side head.
I'm trying to figure out the headers right now. I'm going to possibly try the Hooker 2455's one more time. I'm also trying to design a set of equal length headers on my AutoCad 2006. Designing and drawing them is the easy part making them fit and be equal length is the hard part.
I'm trying to figure out the headers right now. I'm going to possibly try the Hooker 2455's one more time. I'm also trying to design a set of equal length headers on my AutoCad 2006. Designing and drawing them is the easy part making them fit and be equal length is the hard part.
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I tried to install the Hooker 2455's this Thursday. They wouldn't fit in there. I've been told that they will work but theres some mods that needs to be done. I'm trying to figure out exactly what needs to be done to make them work. I just don't want to go cutting on a brand new set of headers and then be out a $150.