Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

427 help

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Old May 31, 2006 | 04:05 PM
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Default 427 help

I am runing a 427 in a 4500 (with driver) 73 blazer. it is a 69 block with the heads that would of came with it stock. the story is that it is out of a vett I do know thats it a 2 bolt main so i know its not to special. anyway I have the large oval, closed chamber heads on it. when I re-did the motor I did it right, with it balcened, heads and block decked, line bored, etc. it put 219 int. and 188 exh. valves. it has 10.1 now with all comp cam valve train and pro magnem roller rockers, I have big headers and an old edelbrock performer 2.0(from the 80's with capped off egr). the cam is comp cam 515 520 lift and 224 and 230 duration at .50. anyway it runs ok now 13.8 103 (3.73 gears and 2200-2400 stall) off the 125 shot. but you know you always want more. I was thinking of going with a comp cam with 574 578 lift and 240 246 duation at .50 (when I did the motor I set the heads up to go 600 lift) and going with an air gap intake. do you think my heads can support that cam (I know I could go bigger but I like the power band on that cam 2300-6500) what do you think my 1/4 improvment will be?
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 12:54 PM
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Anyone????????????????
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Old Jun 1, 2006 | 06:52 PM
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It depends on what your compression ratio is. And thats with everything cc'd, not guessed at. Usually going with a cam made for higher rpm requires longer duration, longer duration requires more compression.
You should read up on dynamic compression, then pick a combination that will give you around 8:1 to 8.5:1 dynamic compression.

I'm building a 468 right now. First I chose the rpm range I wanted, then the cam that will get it there, then the pistons that will give it enough dynamic compression to run there. What it's ending up at is 11.1:1 static compression and 8.2:1 dynamic.

This engine is going to replace a 427 based 438 that was running 11.4:1 SCR with a big solid cam to give it 7.6:1 DCR. This engine would run 11's on pump gas and rev close to 8000 rpm.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 01:11 AM
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how to you calculate dynamic compression?I know i have 10:1 static right now. thanks for the great info!
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 05:56 AM
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I downloaded the DCR calculator HERE.
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Old Jun 2, 2006 | 09:14 PM
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Originally Posted by orangefun
how to you calculate dynamic compression?I know i have 10:1 static right now. thanks for the great info!
your static # is your # you get from doing a compression test a 10 to 1 motor can have 150 lbs to almost 200 lbs depends on cam duration, the more duration the cam has the time it takes to compress the mixture is lessened hence a smaller # way back before all kinds of can grinds were available we use to advance the cam check the compression # at its highest # install the cam their i guess some of the old timers will remember 3/4 cams hahahaahah what it ment to some was 3 or 4 deg advance would give you the best off the line snap street racing but it took away from the top end in every respect a bigger cam will give a performance motor a boost ( always ) the heads u have are in the 265 cc range with those bigger valves installed and closed cham heads u must have a small dome piston if your motor is 10/1 compression i think they the pistons were 215 cc i might be incorrect their but close you must deg the new cam in and check the valve to piston clearence ( must ) those old style pistons were not fitted for the new cams we have today it lists 427 but only because it will fit with work in most cases , the valve pockets were than and are now to shallow and some of those pistons the closed heads had was a 206 valve , so check the pocket with clay lots of guys bent all kinds of things than and will now so check check everything take your time write it all down and ask what else if you think you have covered it all their are some good info out their but not for the most part in one book crane has lots of great info on line so does comp cams copy all of it and read it isky and howards cams have great info in their cats dont go buy the comic books 700 hp stock rambler block you know the real people selling good stuff will and do help good luck jz
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 06:51 AM
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Yea check piston to valve clearance too. The piston below is a forged 427 piston. Had good clearance with a .595 lift cam, then I put in a .567/.590 with a long duration and didn't check. It had .000 clearance on the intake. This happened about 500 miles after installing the cam, going down the highway at 5000 rpm. It also bent the rod, put a hole in the head, cracked the cylinder wall. I had the block sleeved, and used an 'in the head' piston fly cutter when I built it back up.

Last edited by 8a8mfh; Jan 10, 2008 at 07:37 PM.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 08:32 AM
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[QUOTE=8a8mfh]Yea check piston to valve clearance too. The piston below is a forged 427 piston. Had good clearance with a .595 lift cam, then I put in a .567/.590 with a long duration and didn't check. It had .000 clearance on the intake. This happened about 500 miles after installing the cam, going down the highway at 5000 rpm. It also bent the rod, put a hole in the head, cracked the cylinder wall. I had the block sleeved, and used an 'in the head' piston fly cutter when I built it back up.[/QUOTE

The method we use is with the deg wheel is while turning it in a clockwise direction at 4* to 15* dependes on your cam the valve will be at its closest to the piston the intake is going away from the piston --- but the exhaust is coming twards the piston .100 is the spec jz
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 10:33 AM
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Thats what my engine was doing, as the piston went down the intake would open quick and hit it for only about 1 degree. And that picture is the result. It ran great up to the point the valve head broke off. I'd rather it just slammed the valves and bent them all than to have this happen.
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 07:58 PM
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Thats what my engine was doing, as the piston went down the intake would open quick and hit it for only about 1 degree. And that picture is the result. It ran great up to the point the valve head broke off. I'd rather it just slammed the valves and bent them all than to have this happen.

stock valves brake off all the time stainless will some times only bend you understand how to check it now jz
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Old Jun 3, 2006 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by johnjzjz
stock valves brake off all the time stainless will some times only bend you understand how to check it now jz
Well these were stainless valves. But you got my attention now. I'm building a 468 right now and was planning on using the stock valves in the 781 heads for now.
I'm going to use stronger springs with a comp cams .595 lift solid cam. The stock valves should be alright as long as there is no contact right?
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Old Jun 4, 2006 | 06:35 AM
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Originally Posted by 8a8mfh
Well these were stainless valves. But you got my attention now. I'm building a 468 right now and was planning on using the stock valves in the 781 heads for now.
I'm going to use stronger springs with a comp cams .595 lift solid cam. The stock valves should be alright as long as there is no contact right?
ok its a heat thing the stock valve is speced out for a short lift long miles not big lift high spring pressure super fast valve -- guide movement big lift more travel in guide more heat more u need a stainless valve, and a bronze insert in the guide and a plastic type PC Seal not that rubber crap they leak and cause the valve -- guide to scrach each other to death note the oil that passses pickes up carbon from chambers their is no more lead to lube it and more alky in our fuel at the pump so wear is up and reliablity is gone 781 - 049 heads is a good older idea but the seats are not and can not give you what you want as well as they came with a 206 valve many were converted to0 219 intake years back when it was cheep to do its cheeper to buy a ( world ) iron head with all of it in their x the guides seals put in the PC type and bolt them on sell the others on e bay i think they have the correct installed hight and the retainer to seal travel hight but you must check all of these things anyway cp products - howards cams same company has a deal from time to time on new take offs iron gen 6 heads give them a call good deals at times ok i have to run we are going to eliglish town for div points today hope weather holds ttperformance rented us thier dyno this past thursday the red super street/gas nove is my sons see link to it jz
https://ls1tech.com/forums/eastern-members/517917-super-comp-super-street-bbc-cars-shop-today-pics-vids.html
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Old Jun 6, 2006 | 02:32 AM
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Thanks for all the feed back, I will be sure to check all these things, and I will let you know the outcome!
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Old Jun 7, 2006 | 03:16 AM
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I have a cam recomendation for you. Comp Cams #11-568-4. Its a nitrousHP cam that has .575/.595 lift. We put it in an 396 with ported and polished closed chamber heads with 10.5:1 compression and it was amazing. Big lopey idle, incredible throtle response and it pulled all the way to 7000 in an otherwise stock 396.
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