Stick with the smaller carb.

Might call Jerry Cottrell at Schneider race cams.

Pretty sharp guy who's been around forever.

Good luck

 

so does any body knows the number for the vortec heads, thanks

 

i found a set of vortec heads on ebay http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=110178285338 is that is any good. thasnk

 

This set of heads would be a better choice. I bought a set for a motor I am putting together for my uncle's truck, and they look almost like a ProTopline head only cast in aluminum. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Small...QQcmdZViewItem or if you want a smaller intake runner http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Small...QQcmdZViewItem

 

i just bought a set of 210cc Pro Comp Aluminum Heads from ebay, so i got the heads, I havent got them but i alreday pay for them, now i just need to find your help with the camp, and intake, carb, i wanna bad 383, not a turble liek teh one i alredy have, thnks

 

The cam I would run (unless you go custom grind) is a Comp Cams part # 12-246-3. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Comp-...QQcmdZViewItem

The intake manifold that I would run is a Professional Products air gap style intake. You could go with Edlebrock but there is not going to be any real differance in HP. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Cross...QQcmdZViewItem

Unless your holley 750 DP is not rebuildable it should be just about perfect for the application at hand.

The last thing that would be very helpfull is where your engine deck height is at for the correct head gasket for your quench. To measure this you will need a dial indicator and a stand to hold it. You need to measure the distance from where your cylinder heads bolt down to the block to the flat on the top of your piston's (remember that you will need to check for piston rock). You will want to rock the piston with your thumb, take your smallest reading and your largest reading. Then subtract the largest from the smallest and then divide that nuber by two. Now that you have those numbers you need to carefully slide the dial indicator over to your cylinder head surface (remember to manually pull the dial indicator up so that it doesn't move when you go from the piston to the block). Now then take the measurement differance between your cylinder head surface and subtract that number from your largest reading off of your piston surface. Now take that number and add the amount that you got from your piston rock (largest reading minus the smallest reading, divided by two) to get your final sum of how far your piston sets above/below the cylinder head surface. More than likely your piston is going to set below the deck surface and I recommend Mr. Gasket Co.'s part # 1134. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...4&autoview=sku

 

Jegs sells vortec heads for 500 a pair assemblied i believe

 

Hold on, is that a mis-print or does your cam really have a 60 degree split in the duration.

 

It's a mis-print.

 

I had the same problem with a 400sb I had built a while back. I had a comp xtreme energy 262/270 cam with the 882 heads. The motor never really ran like I thought it should. It was ok off the line, but around 4k it ran out of steam.

After talking with some people, I decided to do a head and cam swap. I swapped in a set of Summit racing heads:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku

I stepped the cam up to a comp xtreme energy 284/296:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...3&autoview=sku

Just that made it feel like a whole new motor. It pulled hard from 2k to 6500.

 

Yeah the 882's do hold the motor back quite a bit. The ProComp heads have better flow number's than the Summit cast iron heads and will dissipate heat quicker as well (more pump gas freindly). If he changed his stall converter to a 3000-3500 stall, that 12-250-3 cam would work quite well for him.

 

alright guys tahnk youll for your help, i will let youll knwo how it does after i get it done, by teh way im also upgrading my stall to a 3800 tci. thank youll