Small Block & Big Block Chevy Specific Mouse & Rat Motor Discussion & Conversions

Ideal operating temp??

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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 02:26 AM
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Default Ideal operating temp??

Hey guys, my car seems to run poor in the cold weather and I was curious if it could have something to do with my operating temp./plug temp. I run a 160 t-stat and a pretty cold plug, this setup worked great during the summer but not now. Is it beneficial to run a car hotter in the winter? Also the car seems to foul plugs really quick in the cold while cruising or idling, Im sure you guys have experienced these types of problems before. Any input would be great!
Thanks-Jeremy
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Old Oct 29, 2007 | 02:31 AM
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Well J, mine is doing ok for now, it runs like a champ. I think you should swap to a 180 stat anyways, i think my cars allways run better with a 180 anyways.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 01:50 AM
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Anybody??
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 02:36 AM
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Nobody...
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 04:29 PM
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I was hoping to get some insight on this, its hard to get answers in here though. If I posted in any other sections they would delete my thread because its not lsx related, oh well.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:43 PM
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Why are you running colder plugs? In my experience, the oil temp. is the key. My LS6 runs a 160F stat w/ 180F fan on temps & an oil cooler. Usually has 160-180 coolant temps & 190-210 oil temps above 75F. Plugs are standard temp.. If the LS6 were to be operated in >50F temps, I'd expect the oil to take longer to heat, but, would eventually reach 180F-190F & the coolant would be around 150-155F. Personally, unless my oil temp ran below 180F, I wouldn't worry about it in terms of operating clearances within the engine.

My 350 also has a 160 stat & has the fan/clutch arrangement. Coolant temps are 185-210F above 75F & oil temps are 200-220F. It doesn't run any worse in 50F weather & won't see freezing temps.. Although, I'd expect it to run just fine. IMO, it's mainly your plugs & if your cooling system has a more efficient electric fan, I'd go w/ a warmer stat wouldn't hurt.

In any case, once your oil temp reaches above 160-170F, the car should be running fine. W/ your set up, the oil may not be reaching 160-170F for 20 minutes or so. Maybe the destination has been reached before she's warmed up & ready to roll.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 08:50 PM
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^Thats an intersting point, I run a colder plug for n20 but I am not going to be spraying any more. I am probably going to change to a warmer plug and see what happens, I dont have a way of monitoring my oil temp though.
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:20 PM
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Is you timing locked in for N2O? If so, step to a hotter plug after you advance the timing, start there ya know?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by ZONES89RS
Is you timing locked in for N2O? If so, step to a hotter plug after you advance the timing, start there ya know?
No its not locked, what heat range would you suggest for a setup like mine?
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Old Oct 30, 2007 | 10:18 PM
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Try one step higher than normal, that is what i usually run for a N/A motor.
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Old Nov 5, 2007 | 10:21 PM
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what motor do you have, and what plug are you running?
I have the ngk master cross reference list, so I might be able to tell you the heat ranges you you could run.
if your plugs have a light black coating, they are dry fouled and are too cold a heat range so you need a hotter plug regardless of anything else.

is it better to run a car hotter in winter: yes. ideally you'd want to monitor oil temperature in addition to know the overall general running temperature of the engine. Oil temps usually run 20-30F hotter than coolant temps under sustained operation, but outside ambient air temps can have a big influence as to how much heat the motor can shed, from the block, heads, and oil pan. I don't know what temps are in forth worth, but if you're talking 30-60F then I would run a 180F thermostat over a 160 in a heartbeat. Not to mention, you want you're oil temps > 180F to burn off fuel and moisture otherwise you'll be brewing nitric acid (nitration).
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