raceme@you'dlose.com

Octane boosters are typically just a marketing ploy. They don't do much if anything to the fuel. They use a different method to figure the octane rating so the numbers are bigger in Europe our 92 is your 95 but the quality of the gas is better over there so you may get away with it but high compression and boost is not easy to tune and one batch of bad gas could wreck your motor. I would really look at ways to get the compression down to a more managable level even if it meant buying a different set of pistons. Larger cams will bleed off some of the boost but it would still be a gamble and if you go too big on the cam the motor won't make the power.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

OK, I am going to TRY and stay CALM here.

I never said my engine is a crate engine. My almuminum heads came off of some 4X4 suburbans untill like 1994 and I think a few trucks. I consider a suburban a truck!

The heads and intake are out of the box, never ever said the engine was out of the box.

My point to you sir was that you don't have to sepnd a lot of money. If you only wanted 500ish HP a standard BBC crank and bottom end in great shape will handle it just fine with a good tune up and all.

You spent 3k on a bottom end, I am sure there is about 3k in my entire motor minus the carb.
I never said Garret was junk, is there other comanies I would go with? Yes but nothing against garret.

I know a thing or two about turbo cars and going fast along with a bunch of people on here that make me look like a HUGE novice, might be helpfull to you to not spaz out.

At the VERY least you will have to swap pistons or run race gas (would not risk a bad batch of pump gas)

Get on amazon.com and get a book called Maximum Boost.

Just because someone says its 4340 forged does not mean it is good quality. There is allways a good way and a bad way to machine something.
How do you not know that the material was crap to begin with and that it does not have internal cracks?
JUST BECAUSE ITS 4340 DOES NOT MEAN ITS GOOD 4340!

In reply to your mustang links I don't see anything about them saying they are using them in a higher compression boosted engine or even a boosted engine so your point is void.
If I was to build a BBC for 500ish hp with no power adders I would not be to worried about the pistions I would use either.


Please post pics after it blows up

indirocz28

iTrader: (7)

There,- I fixed it for you... Hope you got out the KY before you bent yourself over the table..- Because you got STUCK by horse!

hannes_slanec

@indirocz28


Sorry but I am not interested in your comment, useful hints only please.

Dont tell us you are the Impala SS427 specialist, you can teach me in no question. You are one of the guys that dont have girl, that is why the hanging around in the internet and go on other peoples nervs.
Would you say that your statement was worthy for that thread???

We are not angry that you got no idea about those things but please don´t disturb us. Thank you very much.

indirocz28

iTrader: (7)

LOL...
I do happen to have a girl my friend, a very nice one in fact- how I landed that one- I dont even know..(honestly), However- I can tell you that you are going in the wrong way about your engine..

your compression ratio is way to high.. - Especially for anything over about 7psi.. - Hell guys with properly tuned hondas running N/A 10:1 honda engine swaps with turbo kits are struggling to keep things together at 8-10psi..

I know you think you are getting a deal here, but the only thing that seems to be worth anything in your combination is the speed pro piston rings..

And for your information- Last time i checked, I was the only one with a cam only LT1 making over 430rwhp n/a here in indiana that still could be daily drivable- so dont tell me I dont know how to build a car..

I was checking into doing an LT1 396 single turbo engine.. The turbo i was looking at was an 80mm- and was setting about $2700 for it, + the piping & fab time, As well as getting a shortblock built with quality name brand components( like EAGLE, and Callies- stuff that has been proven to support over 1500hp). For just the bottom end I was looking at about $4500 ( with name brand proven quality products), and then you have to think about your heads and valve train...I was looking at another 2400 for the head setup I wanted..- Then another $2600 for a trans to handle it and $600 for a converter... ( and for an F-body)-> a 9" rear end looking at about another $2000...

If you are going to build a quality turbo engine, and do it right, and have it be reliable, plan on spending $8-$15,000.... Those cheap e-bay turbos usually come with some cheap junk for bearings- we've seen those before- MMMM, nothing like a turbo with shaft play and bad bearing b/c the owner was to cheap to purchase a quality part..

The other ones I love are when cheap quality ( no name) rod bolts come loose or break and imbed the valve in the top of the piston and then mar the hell out of the crank shaft journal..

Take your time, and do alot of research. Talk to the manufacturers of the parts. Hell for all we know, your 4340 crank could be some second rate chunk out of eagles factory that is maybe bent or something just a tiny bit but eagle's standards are higher than the junk some people build..

I had things set up to around the tune of $10,000 if i was going to build my car right and make around 800rwhp or so on 12psi, have it be streetable, and reliable..


good luck

hannes_slanec

That are very interesting facts. Did you here that eagle is also made in china?
Anyway, eagle is not such a good brand, is also on the lower price-level but I also think that that stuff is ok but it is not hi end stuff.


What you say is correct but I why the hell do you compare a honda with a blueprinted 540 BBC. I would run a lot of pressure.

Is like you compare Arnold Schwarzenegger with David Hasselhoff (please no politic comments). I know anything about Arnold, the goods and the bads, after all he came from my country.

Today I was talking to my friend who got american cars since 20 years. He got a Cougar XR7 that got a a compression of 11:1 and he could run it on the austrian pumpgas. That brought me to the idea that, with a thicker gasket and low pressure the idea could still work if I stay always under 11:1. He also drove a Chevelle 350 with 9,0:1 and ron it with a blower and the engine did not knock.

But anyway for now I have to finish the first steps, about the turbos I will think later.
I made a lot of research in the web and I did not find any traces that the parts in my shortblock are junk. Cat is known as the best material for racers with the budget in mind and I found an article of the Chevy Hi-Performance magazine where the magazine made a test (454 vs 496 vs 540) and they had some well-known companies in a interview for there opinion. That have been companies like Smeding performance, Dart, Merlin, Donovan, World Products, GMPP, Westech Performance...
Chevy Hi-Performance mag. wrote:

Shawn Mendenhall of Probe Industries gave us a quick education on big-block pistons.

So, for my opinion, if a mag like Chevy HiPo trust in Probe, I can too.

I never said I got the best money can buy, I just say that my engine is ok to me.


Guys, slowly I have enough from talking about my short block, that is not the topic.
Please lets stay where we began.


Thanks for all opinions

Hannes

indirocz28

iTrader: (7)

If you retard the timing enough you can 12.5:1 compression..
I wasnt comparing a Honda to your engine iwas just stating that they have trouble staying togtether even with good tuning and what not.. You could go with a layered steel headgasket and then go with a larger combustion chamber and figure out your displacement and cp ratio.. If you boost it you will also want to only run premium and start off with the timing a few degrees retarded for good measure.. To control the timing you can get a cranecams or an msd box that will retard timing so many degrees per lbs of boost.. Cranes goes 0-20 and msd's I think is 0-15 in like 3 degree increments..

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

indirocz28 DOES have a girlfriend, a VERY hot one who also has brains and a killer personality, I would try to hook up with her if him and I were both not allready taken!



Just because a magazine talkes about pistons or a shop does it does not mean anything. I know of a few magazines out there that are full of garbage.

Like I said, we have local big power engine builders that use nothing but eagle and will not touch CAT with a 10 foot pole.


So who cares were the crank is made, a lot of US aircraft maintenance is done in asian countries including production, still good maintenance, probably better really. So whats your point?

The only thing we are saying is slow down and ask around don't trust what you read, even us.

Power adder engines are picky, if you don't know what you are doing it will blow up in a hurry or run like a fat old dog.

Lots of good info on this site and a lot of old timers that are really FAST.
Indirocz28 probably has the fasted LT1 in Indiana that not gutted and stock CUI. I had one of the faster ones that was just mild bolt-ons and had people swearing I was spraying every race when I never did.


Call around or e-mails one of the sponsors on here and ask them about CAT and Probe products with boost.
There is even an LS1 shop on here in Ausie. Its LS1 Turbo over on the right. http://www.ls1turbo.com.au/

Good luck and if it holds together then more power to ya.

indirocz28

iTrader: (7)

well at the moment it is all gutted waiting for its cage and trans...

raceme@you'dlose.com

The OP is in Austria not Australia. He doesn't seem to want to listen to anyone. It seems he has all ready made up his mind to build a 540 CI timebomb.

SG94Z

Hey I don't want to break your ball here but they are rite about the quality of cat it is bottom of the bucket eagle is junk to in my view if you are building big you can not go rong with callies, oliver, howards, JE /SRP, dyers, BME, crower,lunati. ect they have very strict standers for the quality of steel they use and state of the art heat treating processes.How ever if you are keeping it under 700 horse NA. you will be fine with what you are useing.

hannes_slanec

That is just what I say the whole time, although it will be a little more than 700hp but not much.

To one of the previous posters, it is not write that I dont want to listen to anyone here, I just stated before that thread is not about my engine parts and its quality.

It is nice to see that at least some of you know the difference of Austira and Australia.

Thanks Hannes

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Some of us are rather busy and try to spend a few moments a day trying to help out others and miss the small things from time to time.......

Again it will be SUPER hard trying to get 700hp to hook on 20 inch wheels.
You will be forced to run only street tires on them (non sticky) and that will make it even worse). I honestly see you burning rubber untill like 100mph.

Back to what this was all about the turbos you want will choke your engine like no other.
With turbo sizing its all about exhaust diameter and down pipe diameter and turbo sizing.

Really good flowing heads and intake will allow you to run lower boost numbers but still get higher boost hp numbers. This will help you with the compression problem you now have.

Again can't say it enough, non-quality parts leads to non-quality results.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

I would not say eagle is junk dependding on what you want. Am I going to use Eagle in a 2,000HP build? no, under 1,000-1,200? Sure.

SG94Z

I would not use it in any thang more than 800-950 hp I don't trust it over 1000 hp the crank is one thing but thier rods won't take it.

JUICED96Z

iTrader: (2)

Agreed.

BoutTime99Z28

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YfbtBpP2_1M&feature=user
said it cost 40k and took a while.....

studlybilly

I'm currently building a 503 (496 bored .030) TT with a pair of 57 trim T04E's. I'm running a ZZ502 cam and will be turning up to 5000rpms max. I have been steadily trying to research this motor as much as possible. Beneficial facts I have come across so far are: 1. Cranks are cast nodular iron, the marine motors have steel cranks and some early truck motors had steel cranks (until chevy realized cast was sufficient), 2. Rods are forged steel, 3. Pistons are cast hyper.'s. The most relative thread I've come across in terms of power and reliability consisted of a guy who built a 555 with a 502 block and 496 crank (IIRC). His motor dynoed 850hp on the 496 cast crank and he claimed to never have any issues. My first goal was to go all forged internals and shoot for 1000+hp (the T04E's would start choking around 1000hp if that), but reliability came into question with the application (mud truck). So I'm currently doing a build based around 850hp/1050lbft, if I am not satisfied then I will step things up a bit. Currently, I'm just going forged flat top pistons and just getting the stock crank and rods toleranced etc. Obviously a forged crank would add some insurance.

As far as forged quality, CAT is junk, period. I know plenty of local race guys who have given it a shot and it was purely junk. From rockers, to cranks, total junk. Some machine shops wont even warranty a performance motor if they assemble it with CAT. You basically need a 4.375 stroke crank and use common 6.700 rods (another build I read up on) if you intend to upgrade the rods.

studlybilly

Well here is more thorough information:

Connecting Rods: Forged Steel 1141 SAE (shot-peened and magnafluxed, with 9-mm diameter connectin rod bolts)

The cranks were forged steel in marine H.O. applications and I originally read somewhere that chevy put a few in production chassis trucks before realizing that cast was ample for the needs.