327 crank question
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
327 crank question I am building a 327 and have run into a problem. I think.
I am replacing a 305 in a 84 t/a and the 305 had a single long bolt which held the balancer onto the crankshaft. The 327 crank has no provision for this. There are no threads or even room for threads. This motor being internally balanced has no balancer, but does have a plate which is keyed to the crank. The pulley bolts to this plate. My concern is about what holds this plate into the crank. The key will keep it from spinning, but what will keep it from shaking off the front of the motor?
Thanks!
I am replacing a 305 in a 84 t/a and the 305 had a single long bolt which held the balancer onto the crankshaft. The 327 crank has no provision for this. There are no threads or even room for threads. This motor being internally balanced has no balancer, but does have a plate which is keyed to the crank. The pulley bolts to this plate. My concern is about what holds this plate into the crank. The key will keep it from spinning, but what will keep it from shaking off the front of the motor?
Thanks!
Ken SS is correct. I've built several of these years ago and never had a problem. If I could give some advice don't go crazy on your cam selection, dual plane intake, 500-650 cfm carb, and you'll be suprised with the performance and economy. I got 17 mpg with my 283 and 15-16 with my 327 and nice street engines, 3.36:1 gear ratio.
Thread Starter
Registered User
Joined: Jul 2008
Posts: 2
Likes: 0
thanks a ton, It has been hard to find straight answer on this topic..
so I wont have any problems with not using a balancer as well? Im trying to spend as little as possible and afaik it ran great without one..
so I wont have any problems with not using a balancer as well? Im trying to spend as little as possible and afaik it ran great without one..
When it falls off and destroys your radiator, maybe even your hood who knows what the hell you've got and leaves you with a towing bill, thats if you shut it off before it overheats and cracks the block or heads, adding a bolt is cheap insurance.
OK let the million excuses not to begin....NOW:
OK let the million excuses not to begin....NOW:
I argree 10000000% on have a machine shop drill&tap the hole, cheap and money well spent. I've owned them in years past and never really felt secure about it, even though I did rev a coupe of them deeeeep into the 8000rpm realm I never had a failure......
I think one of the main reasons they never came off was the lack of an elastomer band as with later 2 piece versions. They are just a hub....
Its just piece of mind and cheap insurance, DO IT DO IT!
I think one of the main reasons they never came off was the lack of an elastomer band as with later 2 piece versions. They are just a hub....
Its just piece of mind and cheap insurance, DO IT DO IT!
