Issues... gotta love'em!
08-12-2008, 03:53 PM
#1
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Issues... gotta love'em! First let me apologize for making this so long. I tend to over-explain things lol.
Well, I make it a habbit of at least cranking up ole Betsy once a week and maybe take a cruise every other week. Gas prices doesn't make it cheap to go on cruises, go figure huh? Anyway, lately I'd crank the motor like normal and starts fine, keep it revved for a little bit until it idles by itself and let it warm up. Ok... at first (few months ago) I could actually drive around my small town for a little while before it started acting up wanting to die and have to limp home by keeping it revved and still wanting to die. The trips kept getting shorter and shorter every other weekend when I'd go drive it until finally yesterday I started out of the driveway and it died. Now... here's what I have been noticing but kept putting it off because I thought something was wrong with the gauge. First here's a picture.
I always have the hood popped and check things out while the motor warms up before I go drive it. I have the fuel pressure set at 6 psi and that seems to run fine normally and the gauge always shows 6 psi when it's warming up. But...... sometimes I would pull over when it started acting up while driving and see my fuel pressure gauge reading 0 as in no fuel pressure. So it's at zero but the motor is still running and I can plainly see gas in the site windows on the carb. I couldn't understand it but the motor was running anyway so I went home, parked it and pouted. Week goes by and I start it up again and wouldn't you know... 6 psi. So I'm thinking the gauge is just screwing with me at this point. OK so I go cruise and it starts stumbling again and the gauge reads 0 again. Parked it. Well this time (yesterday) I just cranked it up, read the gauge, 6 psi and actually raised the regulator to read 7 psi. Slowly but surely as minutes go by that needle slowly goes down to 0. OK so at this point I'm thinking it's either the gauge, fuel pressure regulator or the electric fuel pump. What do you think?
Well, I make it a habbit of at least cranking up ole Betsy once a week and maybe take a cruise every other week. Gas prices doesn't make it cheap to go on cruises, go figure huh? Anyway, lately I'd crank the motor like normal and starts fine, keep it revved for a little bit until it idles by itself and let it warm up. Ok... at first (few months ago) I could actually drive around my small town for a little while before it started acting up wanting to die and have to limp home by keeping it revved and still wanting to die. The trips kept getting shorter and shorter every other weekend when I'd go drive it until finally yesterday I started out of the driveway and it died. Now... here's what I have been noticing but kept putting it off because I thought something was wrong with the gauge. First here's a picture.
I always have the hood popped and check things out while the motor warms up before I go drive it. I have the fuel pressure set at 6 psi and that seems to run fine normally and the gauge always shows 6 psi when it's warming up. But...... sometimes I would pull over when it started acting up while driving and see my fuel pressure gauge reading 0 as in no fuel pressure. So it's at zero but the motor is still running and I can plainly see gas in the site windows on the carb. I couldn't understand it but the motor was running anyway so I went home, parked it and pouted. Week goes by and I start it up again and wouldn't you know... 6 psi. So I'm thinking the gauge is just screwing with me at this point. OK so I go cruise and it starts stumbling again and the gauge reads 0 again. Parked it. Well this time (yesterday) I just cranked it up, read the gauge, 6 psi and actually raised the regulator to read 7 psi. Slowly but surely as minutes go by that needle slowly goes down to 0. OK so at this point I'm thinking it's either the gauge, fuel pressure regulator or the electric fuel pump. What do you think?
08-12-2008, 06:56 PM
#2
Liquid filled gauge? If so its probably just getting heated up putting pressure on the face from heating the liquid and fubaring what you're reading.
Other than that how does it act when its trying to die when warmed up?
What do the plugs look like? Does it just try and idle too low and stall, or will it not stay running when you gas it just a bit?
That tiny air cleaner is killing you, put a nice huge one on it so it can breathe, not related really just some advice for you.
Whose carb is it, what size and how has it been modified/adjusted. When is the last time you cleaned it?
Other than that how does it act when its trying to die when warmed up?
What do the plugs look like? Does it just try and idle too low and stall, or will it not stay running when you gas it just a bit?
That tiny air cleaner is killing you, put a nice huge one on it so it can breathe, not related really just some advice for you.
Whose carb is it, what size and how has it been modified/adjusted. When is the last time you cleaned it?
08-12-2008, 08:41 PM
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Liquid filled gauge? If so its probably just getting heated up putting pressure on the face from heating the liquid and fubaring what you're reading.
Other than that how does it act when its trying to die when warmed up?
What do the plugs look like? Does it just try and idle too low and stall, or will it not stay running when you gas it just a bit?
That tiny air cleaner is killing you, put a nice huge one on it so it can breathe, not related really just some advice for you.
Whose carb is it, what size and how has it been modified/adjusted. When is the last time you cleaned it?
Other than that how does it act when its trying to die when warmed up?
What do the plugs look like? Does it just try and idle too low and stall, or will it not stay running when you gas it just a bit?
That tiny air cleaner is killing you, put a nice huge one on it so it can breathe, not related really just some advice for you.
Whose carb is it, what size and how has it been modified/adjusted. When is the last time you cleaned it?
Yep, liquid filled gauge. But man, holding 6 psi and then slowly going all the way down to 0 psi??
As far as what it's doing, like I can set the idle at 1k rpm when it's running and idling great and the fuel pressure is at 6 psi. Then I'll go drive it and it runs fine as long as you got the gas pedal down. I'll get a ways into town and then when I'm stopped at a redlight it'll want to idle down so low it wants to die so I have to idle it up with the pedal. Sometimes even that doesn't work. It'll just die. Then I gotta start it up again and rev it up and peel off back home racing the whole way and rolling through stop signs haha. If I get it to keep an idle when I pull in the driveway (mostly not) after coming back home, I'll look at the fp gauge and it's at 0.
Yes I know about the air filter. I have to try to find a good one that fits under the hood that doesn't have a drop down base. This one is fairly new though.
The spark plugs were just changed out to new ones before I went for that cruise yesterday and it still ran like poo. The old spark plugs were not caked with anything, definitely not running rich by the look of them. If anything they looked normal or maybe a little on the lean side as if it's not getting enough fuel?
This is a brand new Quickfuel 750 carb. Came with .74s in the primaries and .84s in the rear. This made the motor run a little rich. Always had smoke coming out of the exhaust and kept fowling spark plugs. The tips of the plugs were so black and looked like Conoco stations they were so caked with soot. So I changed the primaries to .68s I believe, hell they might be .72s but I'm pretty sure they are .68s. Anyway that cleared up the smoke in the exhaust and it quit fowling plugs.
This is the idle when it's idling like it should. Again, it does this all the time when I first crank it after sitting. Then it slowly goes downhill from there. This was pretty recent.
08-12-2008, 08:42 PM
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08-12-2008, 09:21 PM
#6
Yeah the heat heats up the liquid and gas in the gauge and makes it expand and can make it read zero seen it before. If you really had 0 psi your float level would be down considerably I would imagine as the needle and seat would basicly have to be open constantly to keep fuel in the bowl.
Have you noticed any signs of percolation from the vents etc?
Plug reading has to be done in two areas, way down in the plug at the bottom on the porcelin should be a halo of ash. That is your best indicator of fuel mixture. For heat range look at the grounding straps they should be discolored about half way down the strap. Properly running plugs that dont see much idle/cold start time should appear to be almost completely white except the ring down in them as noted earlier.
If it starts up and idles instantly cold with no choke its probably too rich when its hot, also idle mixture has got to be set in gear warmed up for best vacuum.
Seems really odd to me that it just will not idle warm. What does your electrical system to the pump look like? Are your gas lines far away from the headers and exhaust and other heat sources? If you pull the gas cap off of it while the gauge shows zero does the pressure on the gauge improve? When you have the idle rpm set and its running cold what happens if you push the throttle closed a bit with your hand does it slow down? If its warmed up what happens if you put the tip of a ball point pen in two of the idle air bleeds?
Seems to me as though its either an air or electrical or ignition issue. So long as your fuel level in the bowl is pretty close to what it should be when the gauge reads pressure your idle should not be affected, even if the pressure is nearly nothing. Electrical components tend to have heat related issues, resistance goes up as things get hotter.
What does your vacuum show at idle, and what is the engine combo, cam compression and displacement.
Have you noticed any signs of percolation from the vents etc?
Plug reading has to be done in two areas, way down in the plug at the bottom on the porcelin should be a halo of ash. That is your best indicator of fuel mixture. For heat range look at the grounding straps they should be discolored about half way down the strap. Properly running plugs that dont see much idle/cold start time should appear to be almost completely white except the ring down in them as noted earlier.
If it starts up and idles instantly cold with no choke its probably too rich when its hot, also idle mixture has got to be set in gear warmed up for best vacuum.
Seems really odd to me that it just will not idle warm. What does your electrical system to the pump look like? Are your gas lines far away from the headers and exhaust and other heat sources? If you pull the gas cap off of it while the gauge shows zero does the pressure on the gauge improve? When you have the idle rpm set and its running cold what happens if you push the throttle closed a bit with your hand does it slow down? If its warmed up what happens if you put the tip of a ball point pen in two of the idle air bleeds?
Seems to me as though its either an air or electrical or ignition issue. So long as your fuel level in the bowl is pretty close to what it should be when the gauge reads pressure your idle should not be affected, even if the pressure is nearly nothing. Electrical components tend to have heat related issues, resistance goes up as things get hotter.
What does your vacuum show at idle, and what is the engine combo, cam compression and displacement.
08-12-2008, 09:51 PM
#7
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If you really had 0 psi your float level would be down considerably I would imagine as the needle and seat would basicly have to be open constantly to keep fuel in the bowl. - That's why I think the gauge is wrong. I can see the float level and gas through the site window while it's idling at 0 psi.
Have you noticed any signs of percolation from the vents etc? - What vents?
If it starts up and idles instantly cold with no choke its probably too rich when its hot. - It does not have a choke and it's mechanical secondaries. When it cranks up cold I have to sit there and keep it revved for a little bit or it will die. After I don't know 30 seconds maybe 45 seconds of revving it usually will idle by then.
Seems really odd to me that it just will not idle warm. - If I don't go drive it and just let it sit there idling it does fine.
What does your electrical system to the pump look like? - All new wires, done by myself and an electrical buddy of mine. Keep it mind this truck was just totally rebuilt from the ground up as of the last couple of years. Most of the mechanical and engine stuff wihin the last year.
Are your gas lines far away from the headers and exhaust and other heat sources? - Absolutely
If you pull the gas cap off of it while the gauge shows zero does the pressure on the gauge improve? - Never tried that
When you have the idle rpm set and its running cold what happens if you push the throttle closed a bit with your hand does it slow down? - Never tried that. What does this show?
If its warmed up what happens if you put the tip of a ball point pen in two of the idle air bleeds? - Never tried that. What does this show?
What does your vacuum show at idle, and what is the engine combo, cam compression and displacement. - Haven't put a vacuum gauge on it yet. I have been wanting to do that (I don't have one) as it would be apart of the "dialing it in" or final tuning so to speak since I did the motor swap from my 72 Nova that it came out of. I've been getting away with it running satisfactorily (sp?) since I did the swap. It's one of those things that hasn't been done yet put it that way. That and putting a timing light on it to get all that straight. That all still needs to be done.
Here's the specs:
• 383
• 4 Bolt Main
• Forged Alum Flat Top Pistons
• Forged 5.7 Rods
• Lunati Hydraulic Cam 246 Duration / 520 Lift
• Camel Hump Heads
• Comp Cams Valve Locks w/ Lash Cap Recess
• Comp Cams Steel Retainers
• Comp Cams Double Valve Springs w/ Damper
- Diameter 1.430", 2 Spring
- Seat Load: 132# @ 1.750"
- Open Load: 280# @ 1.250"
- Coil Bind: 1.150"
- Rate(Lbs./In.): 296#
• Stainless steel valves undercut
- 202 Intake
- 160 Exhaust
• Victor Jr. Intake Manifold w/ Air Gap
- Port Matched
• Quickfuel 750 Double Pumper Carburator w/ 2" Spacer
• Double Roller Timing Chain
• Mallory fuel filter canister type w/ replaceable filter
• Jegs Pro Starter 4.41:1 gear reduction 1.9HP w/ Push Button Start
• MSD Pro Billet Distributor
• MSD 6AL Ignition
• MSD Blaster 3 Coil
• MSD Adjustable Timing Control
• MSD 8.5mm Super Conductor Plug Wires
• Painless Wiring
Here's what it does when it's running right. This was earlier before the summer after the motor swap was complete.
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08-13-2008, 03:02 AM
#8
Vents on top of the carb from the fuel bowls. If the bowls get hot enough it will sometimes boil the fuel out of the vents.
Ok, you throttling it up at cold startup is richening it by way of the transfer slots until it gets heat in the manifold.
What I meant by the wiring is, is it by relay, oil pressure switch for emergency pump shutoff etc. What components and layout did you have there. Kind of goes toward knowing if its a voltage problem to the pump, when voltage drops resistance is increased and makes the brushes in the pump get hot which is hard on it.
Pulling gas cap off shows if you're drawing vacuum against the tank if the vent on it is inadequite or stopped up. Seen this a staggering amount of times on racecars, they fall on thier faces at the end of 2nd and all through third, but thats a small fuel cell.
Pushing closed on the throttles at idle shows that you're really resting on the curb idle screw and not experiencing some sort of deflection from king kong return springs everyone likes to run.
Putting the tip of a ball point pen in the air bleeds will make it take more fuel at idle when its having trouble. It will show if the issue is due to being lean.
Need to get a vac gauge on it, and set the timing your issues at idle when warm could be related to the tuneup there. It can all be set by ear but you can get it a ton closer with instramentation.
Just to clarify, this problem is only at idle? or is it now when you're cruising also kind of unclear from your first post.
Ok, you throttling it up at cold startup is richening it by way of the transfer slots until it gets heat in the manifold.
What I meant by the wiring is, is it by relay, oil pressure switch for emergency pump shutoff etc. What components and layout did you have there. Kind of goes toward knowing if its a voltage problem to the pump, when voltage drops resistance is increased and makes the brushes in the pump get hot which is hard on it.
Pulling gas cap off shows if you're drawing vacuum against the tank if the vent on it is inadequite or stopped up. Seen this a staggering amount of times on racecars, they fall on thier faces at the end of 2nd and all through third, but thats a small fuel cell.
Pushing closed on the throttles at idle shows that you're really resting on the curb idle screw and not experiencing some sort of deflection from king kong return springs everyone likes to run.
Putting the tip of a ball point pen in the air bleeds will make it take more fuel at idle when its having trouble. It will show if the issue is due to being lean.
Need to get a vac gauge on it, and set the timing your issues at idle when warm could be related to the tuneup there. It can all be set by ear but you can get it a ton closer with instramentation.
Just to clarify, this problem is only at idle? or is it now when you're cruising also kind of unclear from your first post.
08-13-2008, 08:28 AM
#9
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Vents on top of the carb from the fuel bowls. If the bowls get hot enough it will sometimes boil the fuel out of the vents.
Ok, you throttling it up at cold startup is richening it by way of the transfer slots until it gets heat in the manifold.
What I meant by the wiring is, is it by relay, oil pressure switch for emergency pump shutoff etc. What components and layout did you have there. Kind of goes toward knowing if its a voltage problem to the pump, when voltage drops resistance is increased and makes the brushes in the pump get hot which is hard on it.
Pulling gas cap off shows if you're drawing vacuum against the tank if the vent on it is inadequite or stopped up. Seen this a staggering amount of times on racecars, they fall on thier faces at the end of 2nd and all through third, but thats a small fuel cell.
Pushing closed on the throttles at idle shows that you're really resting on the curb idle screw and not experiencing some sort of deflection from king kong return springs everyone likes to run.
Putting the tip of a ball point pen in the air bleeds will make it take more fuel at idle when its having trouble. It will show if the issue is due to being lean.
Need to get a vac gauge on it, and set the timing your issues at idle when warm could be related to the tuneup there. It can all be set by ear but you can get it a ton closer with instramentation.
Just to clarify, this problem is only at idle? or is it now when you're cruising also kind of unclear from your first post.
Ok, you throttling it up at cold startup is richening it by way of the transfer slots until it gets heat in the manifold.
What I meant by the wiring is, is it by relay, oil pressure switch for emergency pump shutoff etc. What components and layout did you have there. Kind of goes toward knowing if its a voltage problem to the pump, when voltage drops resistance is increased and makes the brushes in the pump get hot which is hard on it.
Pulling gas cap off shows if you're drawing vacuum against the tank if the vent on it is inadequite or stopped up. Seen this a staggering amount of times on racecars, they fall on thier faces at the end of 2nd and all through third, but thats a small fuel cell.
Pushing closed on the throttles at idle shows that you're really resting on the curb idle screw and not experiencing some sort of deflection from king kong return springs everyone likes to run.
Putting the tip of a ball point pen in the air bleeds will make it take more fuel at idle when its having trouble. It will show if the issue is due to being lean.
Need to get a vac gauge on it, and set the timing your issues at idle when warm could be related to the tuneup there. It can all be set by ear but you can get it a ton closer with instramentation.
Just to clarify, this problem is only at idle? or is it now when you're cruising also kind of unclear from your first post.
The fuel pump is wired into the fuse box to come on when the key is turned to "on" and it has a relay inline. Just goes down the frame rail to the back where there's 2 wires, power and ground.
I have a 16 gallon fuel cell with a 3/8" braided vent line coming out.
I basically have the 4 idle screws set at 1 1/4 turns from base. I haven't yet figured out where exactly it needs to be to run right yet. Sometimes I play with those mixture screws and get it running great like one time as seen in that last video of me running the truck. Then it'll sit until the next weekend and everything changes it seems. Like it doesn't stay set where I had it.
Hard to describe exactly when the acting up starts and ends. Not to mention this has been going on for a while in very spaced out incriments because I don't jack with it everyday or every week sometimes. In the first post I described it as only acting up after it's been driven for a while around town. That was earlier in the year. As months went by the driving got shorter because the acting up started sooner. All while having a great idle. Then fast forward to a couple days ago and I start it up, great idle, warms up, no acting up, put it in gear and start to drive out the driveway and it wants to stumble. I got out and checked the fuel pressure while still idling and the fuel pressure gauge is at 0 psi. I say eff it and I go ride around the neighborhood. Ran fine as long as the pedal was down but if I were to stop at a stop sign and let it idle it would die. Start it up... drive home in limp mode. Park it, let it sit for a hour or so. I turned the key to "on" which turns the fuel pump on and check the gauge.. 6 psi.
08-13-2008, 10:26 AM
#10
Put another gauge on it so we can see if thats what pressure is really doing. Thats really the first thing to do here since thats where alot of questioning comes from here.
Sounds like if its not that whatever is wrong is slowly dying. The good news is when it finally goes caput, the truck wont run and you'll have to get it right before it'll run again, that is also the bad news.
Sounds like if its not that whatever is wrong is slowly dying. The good news is when it finally goes caput, the truck wont run and you'll have to get it right before it'll run again, that is also the bad news
.
08-14-2008, 09:14 AM
#11
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I would also put a different air cleaner on there. Seriously, if you think you are fighting a lean condition but then stab it and it runs, it is probably not the cause. However, after you get the new guage on and it shows a bad pump, you will replace it and then have the problem of running rich because it is NOW getting the proper fuel.
Chris
Chris
08-15-2008, 02:25 AM
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omg what the hell are you guys talking about .. boiling gas out bowl vent ? heated gas inside a liquid filled gauge.. get the hell outta town .. im sorry but u guys are outta ur mind ... holy heck .. ok after reading thru the tons of paragraphs sounds like a vacuum leak to me . . but if u gauge is at 0 and it still runs at idle ur fuel pump is acting up or the regulator or you have some restriction to the fuel pump or after it.
check for vacuum leaks when it gets hot .and
when your gauge is reading zero shut the truck off . undo the fuel line and put it in a gas jug and turn the fuel pump on it should be gushing fuel.... what fuel pump do u have ? u might have to check the regulator just the same ... omg i cant beleive all that crap that kid had u answer .. wow
check for vacuum leaks when it gets hot .and
when your gauge is reading zero shut the truck off . undo the fuel line and put it in a gas jug and turn the fuel pump on it should be gushing fuel.... what fuel pump do u have ? u might have to check the regulator just the same ... omg i cant beleive all that crap that kid had u answer .. wow
Last edited by xdamxincx; 08-15-2008 at 02:37 AM.
08-15-2008, 01:20 PM
#14
I cant believe you have never seen gas percolate out of a vent tube, or had one vapor lock, aluminum intakes with carbs mounted directly too them are very good at that. Most especially when they have billet baseplates and billet metering blocks, hell i think the quick fuel carb even has billet bowls. So its a relevent question.
I have seen race cars have blocked or jacked up tank vents and do exactly what he is describing.
I have seent he liquid filled gauges underhood go straight to zero when they get hot hot as well.
I'm glad you're very mature xdamxincx and can express your disagreement in an adult way. BTW, the ball point pen in the iab's would have shown it to be a vacuum leak, that is why I asked that rather than have him chase underneath the hood all week with a can of carb cleaner while jiggling hoses.
BTW, just because a fuel pump will crank out fuel with no pressure against it at all doesnt mean it will do anything when it sees pressure. Never seen one where the brushes were just half worn out, or the rotor had just a little too much clearance on?!
Hope you get it worked out Dave, i'll leave it to the professionals from now on and check myself into the nut hatch.
I have seen race cars have blocked or jacked up tank vents and do exactly what he is describing.
I have seent he liquid filled gauges underhood go straight to zero when they get hot hot as well.
I'm glad you're very mature xdamxincx and can express your disagreement in an adult way. BTW, the ball point pen in the iab's would have shown it to be a vacuum leak, that is why I asked that rather than have him chase underneath the hood all week with a can of carb cleaner while jiggling hoses.
BTW, just because a fuel pump will crank out fuel with no pressure against it at all doesnt mean it will do anything when it sees pressure. Never seen one where the brushes were just half worn out, or the rotor had just a little too much clearance on?!
Hope you get it worked out Dave, i'll leave it to the professionals from now on and check myself into the nut hatch.
08-15-2008, 02:10 PM
#15
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I fired it up yesterday after work. Did the typical revving it up to warm the motor enough to keep an idle. Took maybe 45 seconds. Popped the hood, the fuel pressure gauge read almost 8 psi. Remember I bumped it up to 7 psi that last time I drove it and it eventually went down to 0 psi. So I'm checking things out, pull the air cleaner off and watched and manually revved it a little. By this time I'm at 180 degrees temp. In park, I started adjusting the 4 corner idle screws to see what I could do. Apparently I made it worse cause then I started getting some popping from the exhaust. Not so much back firing because those are pretty damn loud. These were more like a subtle pop but very audible. I played with those screws for at least 5 minutes while the motor was idling and never could clear it back up even putting them 1 1/4 turns from base where it was. Nothing was bubbling from the vent tubes. I'm not sure where you're talking about to put the ball point pen so I didn't do that. By this time the gauge is reading about 5 psi. I pulled off the gas cap and it didn't change anything. Fed up... I turned it off and went and eat supper.
08-18-2008, 06:16 PM
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I cant believe you have never seen gas percolate out of a vent tube, or had one vapor lock, aluminum intakes with carbs mounted directly too them are very good at that. Most especially when they have billet baseplates and billet metering blocks, hell i think the quick fuel carb even has billet bowls. So its a relevent question.
I have seen race cars have blocked or jacked up tank vents and do exactly what he is describing.
I have seent he liquid filled gauges underhood go straight to zero when they get hot hot as well.
I'm glad you're very mature xdamxincx and can express your disagreement in an adult way. BTW, the ball point pen in the iab's would have shown it to be a vacuum leak, that is why I asked that rather than have him chase underneath the hood all week with a can of carb cleaner while jiggling hoses.
BTW, just because a fuel pump will crank out fuel with no pressure against it at all doesnt mean it will do anything when it sees pressure. Never seen one where the brushes were just half worn out, or the rotor had just a little too much clearance on?!
Hope you get it worked out Dave, i'll leave it to the professionals from now on and check myself into the nut hatch.
I have seen race cars have blocked or jacked up tank vents and do exactly what he is describing.
I have seent he liquid filled gauges underhood go straight to zero when they get hot hot as well.
I'm glad you're very mature xdamxincx and can express your disagreement in an adult way. BTW, the ball point pen in the iab's would have shown it to be a vacuum leak, that is why I asked that rather than have him chase underneath the hood all week with a can of carb cleaner while jiggling hoses.
BTW, just because a fuel pump will crank out fuel with no pressure against it at all doesnt mean it will do anything when it sees pressure. Never seen one where the brushes were just half worn out, or the rotor had just a little too much clearance on?!
Hope you get it worked out Dave, i'll leave it to the professionals from now on and check myself into the nut hatch.
08-18-2008, 06:21 PM
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Nah man you're helping so stick around haha.
I fired it up yesterday after work. Did the typical revving it up to warm the motor enough to keep an idle. Took maybe 45 seconds. Popped the hood, the fuel pressure gauge read almost 8 psi. Remember I bumped it up to 7 psi that last time I drove it and it eventually went down to 0 psi. So I'm checking things out, pull the air cleaner off and watched and manually revved it a little. By this time I'm at 180 degrees temp. In park, I started adjusting the 4 corner idle screws to see what I could do. Apparently I made it worse cause then I started getting some popping from the exhaust. Not so much back firing because those are pretty damn loud. These were more like a subtle pop but very audible. I played with those screws for at least 5 minutes while the motor was idling and never could clear it back up even putting them 1 1/4 turns from base where it was. Nothing was bubbling from the vent tubes. I'm not sure where you're talking about to put the ball point pen so I didn't do that. By this time the gauge is reading about 5 psi. I pulled off the gas cap and it didn't change anything. Fed up... I turned it off and went and eat supper.
I fired it up yesterday after work. Did the typical revving it up to warm the motor enough to keep an idle. Took maybe 45 seconds. Popped the hood, the fuel pressure gauge read almost 8 psi. Remember I bumped it up to 7 psi that last time I drove it and it eventually went down to 0 psi. So I'm checking things out, pull the air cleaner off and watched and manually revved it a little. By this time I'm at 180 degrees temp. In park, I started adjusting the 4 corner idle screws to see what I could do. Apparently I made it worse cause then I started getting some popping from the exhaust. Not so much back firing because those are pretty damn loud. These were more like a subtle pop but very audible. I played with those screws for at least 5 minutes while the motor was idling and never could clear it back up even putting them 1 1/4 turns from base where it was. Nothing was bubbling from the vent tubes. I'm not sure where you're talking about to put the ball point pen so I didn't do that. By this time the gauge is reading about 5 psi. I pulled off the gas cap and it didn't change anything. Fed up... I turned it off and went and eat supper.
y would you start messing with the idle mixture screws ?
08-18-2008, 08:54 PM
#18
On The Tree
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Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Sulphur, Louisiana
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at this point i'm about to just offer someone some bbq and ice cold beer to come spend an afternoon to tune this thing lol.
Last edited by SulphurDave; 08-18-2008 at 09:00 PM.
