Aster Bracket Group Purchase
Back by popular demand, we are going to have another group purchase for the Aster Bracket. The above link directs you to the Aster Bracket on my website, and there is an option at the bottom of the page for this group purchase. I will be filling in the names below as the orders come in.
Thanks. Bob
1. Joe C - I8UR4RD
2. Ricardo S - TNTramair
3. Shannon Y
4. Tony T
5. H.S.
6. Greg M
7. Don H
8. Joe C
9. WS6 SRT8
10. 2002gt
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website

Last edited by Bob@BruteSpeed; Sep 17, 2012 at 08:48 AM.
The bracket assembly includes the following pieces:
New main bracket
Three billet pulleys (1 8 rib tensioner pulley, 1 2.75" idler, and 1 1.75" idler)
New AC Delco tensioner
Stand offs between the motor and bracket
5 Socket head cap screws to mount the head unit to the bracket.
2 Socket cap screws to mount the tensioner to the bracket.
1 Socket cap screw to mount the main idler pulley to the bracket.
3 Metric hex head bolts to mount bracket to standoffs.
2 Threaded rods for mounting the bracket to the alternator bolt holes (Like the standard ATI bracket)
Shim to sit behind the head unit pulley to ensure alignment.
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website

ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website

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ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website

The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
New gm parts and gm parts direct have you covered. i I just happened to come across one. you should be looking to spend about $200 on a new one.
You can use a large 3 jaw pulley puller to do the job yourself, but you just have to take it slow and reposition the jaws from time to time to try and keep from warping the pulley much. Just make sure you don't pull the pulley too far forward.
There is another option that will save you from having to pull the pulley though it will be more expensive. I have been told someone makes spacers that will being the pump in line with the main drive, you just need to also get a corvette tensioner to mount to the pump. I have not yet looked into how much this costs though. I think they said it was Wegner that makes them.
You can use a large 3 jaw pulley puller to do the job yourself, but you just have to take it slow and reposition the jaws from time to time to try and keep from warping the pulley much. Just make sure you don't pull the pulley too far forward.
There is another option that will save you from having to pull the pulley though it will be more expensive. I have been told someone makes spacers that will being the pump in line with the main drive, you just need to also get a corvette tensioner to mount to the pump. I have not yet looked into how much this costs though. I think they said it was Wegner that makes them.
oh ok. it needs to be PULLED out (not pressed in) 11/32nd's. I totally read that wrong then. Now i just need to wait till next month and get my fuel system and 3.4 pulley and find out my belt length. Got my br7ef's at .026 last nite and they are in the heads now. I laughed at how easy it was with the motor out.
I use a 2 foot long pipe between the jaws to hold it steady and provide leverage and a pipe over the socket when pulling. The hardest part is getting it to initially break loose, so I do 7 or 8 90 degree turns then loosen it up, reposition the jaws, and do it again. Repeat until it begins pulling forward. I use a micrometer to measure the depth from the pulley to the top of the shaft and try and stop close to .25" deep (for a total of about 3/8" pulled since it starts with the shaft a bit forward of the pulley).
It did take a bit of effort to get it moving, but wasnt that bad really. I did put some tension on it then stop and tap the top of the puller with a hammer for a bit though.

Makes a huge difference at the front though. My crank pulley is a F-Body offset.

it looks more than it is, it's only about 4.5-5mm though ( 195thou )
It did take a bit of effort to get it moving, but wasnt that bad really. I did put some tension on it then stop and tap the top of the puller with a hammer for a bit though.

Makes a huge difference at the front though. My crank pulley is a F-Body offset.

it looks more than it is, it's only about 4.5-5mm though ( 195thou )

That was FAST! I sent you a tracking number last night for the race valve, thanks! Bob
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website






