Aster Bracket Group Purchase
#1
Aster Bracket Group Purchase
http://shop.brutespeed.com/Aster-Aut...er-Bracket.htm
Back by popular demand, we are going to have another group purchase for the Aster Bracket. The above link directs you to the Aster Bracket on my website, and there is an option at the bottom of the page for this group purchase. I will be filling in the names below as the orders come in.
Thanks. Bob
1. Joe C - I8UR4RD
2. Ricardo S - TNTramair
3. Shannon Y
4. Tony T
5. H.S.
6. Greg M
7. Don H
8. Joe C
9. WS6 SRT8
10. 2002gt
Back by popular demand, we are going to have another group purchase for the Aster Bracket. The above link directs you to the Aster Bracket on my website, and there is an option at the bottom of the page for this group purchase. I will be filling in the names below as the orders come in.
Thanks. Bob
1. Joe C - I8UR4RD
2. Ricardo S - TNTramair
3. Shannon Y
4. Tony T
5. H.S.
6. Greg M
7. Don H
8. Joe C
9. WS6 SRT8
10. 2002gt
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
Last edited by Bob@BruteSpeed; 09-17-2012 at 08:48 AM.
#3
The bracket assembly includes the following pieces:
New main bracket
Three billet pulleys (1 8 rib tensioner pulley, 1 2.75" idler, and 1 1.75" idler)
New AC Delco tensioner
Stand offs between the motor and bracket
5 Socket head cap screws to mount the head unit to the bracket.
2 Socket cap screws to mount the tensioner to the bracket.
1 Socket cap screw to mount the main idler pulley to the bracket.
3 Metric hex head bolts to mount bracket to standoffs.
2 Threaded rods for mounting the bracket to the alternator bolt holes (Like the standard ATI bracket)
Shim to sit behind the head unit pulley to ensure alignment.
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#7
Thanks, but we don't see the water pump by itself. We don't make any money off of it, but since it is required for the bracket we offer it to help out. The GM Corvette 2005 LS2 part number 89018052 water pump is the one to use. The pulley needs to be pressed forward 11/32 of an inch, which is easy to do with a puller. Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
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#8
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
#12
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
You can use a large 3 jaw pulley puller to do the job yourself, but you just have to take it slow and reposition the jaws from time to time to try and keep from warping the pulley much. Just make sure you don't pull the pulley too far forward.
There is another option that will save you from having to pull the pulley though it will be more expensive. I have been told someone makes spacers that will being the pump in line with the main drive, you just need to also get a corvette tensioner to mount to the pump. I have not yet looked into how much this costs though. I think they said it was Wegner that makes them.
#13
TECH Addict
iTrader: (16)
I get the pumps complete for just under $200 shipped and have been selling them as part of the bracket sale for $200. I don't make anything off it and am actually losing money by the time I've pulled the pulley, and have been considering raising the price a little on them.
You can use a large 3 jaw pulley puller to do the job yourself, but you just have to take it slow and reposition the jaws from time to time to try and keep from warping the pulley much. Just make sure you don't pull the pulley too far forward.
There is another option that will save you from having to pull the pulley though it will be more expensive. I have been told someone makes spacers that will being the pump in line with the main drive, you just need to also get a corvette tensioner to mount to the pump. I have not yet looked into how much this costs though. I think they said it was Wegner that makes them.
You can use a large 3 jaw pulley puller to do the job yourself, but you just have to take it slow and reposition the jaws from time to time to try and keep from warping the pulley much. Just make sure you don't pull the pulley too far forward.
There is another option that will save you from having to pull the pulley though it will be more expensive. I have been told someone makes spacers that will being the pump in line with the main drive, you just need to also get a corvette tensioner to mount to the pump. I have not yet looked into how much this costs though. I think they said it was Wegner that makes them.
oh ok. it needs to be PULLED out (not pressed in) 11/32nd's. I totally read that wrong then. Now i just need to wait till next month and get my fuel system and 3.4 pulley and find out my belt length. Got my br7ef's at .026 last nite and they are in the heads now. I laughed at how easy it was with the motor out.
#15
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
I use a 2 foot long pipe between the jaws to hold it steady and provide leverage and a pipe over the socket when pulling. The hardest part is getting it to initially break loose, so I do 7 or 8 90 degree turns then loosen it up, reposition the jaws, and do it again. Repeat until it begins pulling forward. I use a micrometer to measure the depth from the pulley to the top of the shaft and try and stop close to .25" deep (for a total of about 3/8" pulled since it starts with the shaft a bit forward of the pulley).
#16
TECH Regular
iTrader: (9)
oh ok. it needs to be PULLED out (not pressed in) 11/32nd's. I totally read that wrong then. Now i just need to wait till next month and get my fuel system and 3.4 pulley and find out my belt length. Got my br7ef's at .026 last nite and they are in the heads now. I laughed at how easy it was with the motor out.
#17
TECH Addict
iTrader: (16)
No, not applying the heat. My torch would liquefy the pulley most likely. No, I am just putting my 3 jaw on, and finding something long enough to give me leverage, and apparently I need to find a micrometer somewhere and measure it. I certainly do not want to flex it so I will take my time. I am a pretty slow paced guy anyways when it come to these things. Took me a month to put the procharger on by itself.
#18
9 Second Club
New pump arrived today via SDPC !! Superb service from them, I only ordered it on Friday morning.
It did take a bit of effort to get it moving, but wasnt that bad really. I did put some tension on it then stop and tap the top of the puller with a hammer for a bit though.
Makes a huge difference at the front though. My crank pulley is a F-Body offset.
it looks more than it is, it's only about 4.5-5mm though ( 195thou )
It did take a bit of effort to get it moving, but wasnt that bad really. I did put some tension on it then stop and tap the top of the puller with a hammer for a bit though.
Makes a huge difference at the front though. My crank pulley is a F-Body offset.
it looks more than it is, it's only about 4.5-5mm though ( 195thou )
#19
New pump arrived today via SDPC !! Superb service from them, I only ordered it on Friday morning.
It did take a bit of effort to get it moving, but wasnt that bad really. I did put some tension on it then stop and tap the top of the puller with a hammer for a bit though.
Makes a huge difference at the front though. My crank pulley is a F-Body offset.
it looks more than it is, it's only about 4.5-5mm though ( 195thou )
It did take a bit of effort to get it moving, but wasnt that bad really. I did put some tension on it then stop and tap the top of the puller with a hammer for a bit though.
Makes a huge difference at the front though. My crank pulley is a F-Body offset.
it looks more than it is, it's only about 4.5-5mm though ( 195thou )
That was FAST! I sent you a tracking number last night for the race valve, thanks! Bob
__________________
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website
ATI ProCharger and Moser Sales 260 672-2076
PM's disabled, please e-mail me
E-mail: brutespeed@gmail.comob@brutespeed.com
https://brutespeed.com/ Link to website