STS Turbo sale!

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old 01-18-2005, 10:11 AM
  #21  
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
 
Noyzee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: East Side Performance! mASShole
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Tom, sorry, i didnt get it. i just went back, but its to old i cant find it.
but your about an hour, so i would do cash
Old 01-18-2005, 11:05 AM
  #22  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
tbyrne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mass
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

You'll have mail in a few minutes
Old 01-18-2005, 11:09 AM
  #23  
8 second mod
iTrader: (37)
 
Noyzee's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: East Side Performance! mASShole
Posts: 17,879
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

thanks
Old 01-18-2005, 01:00 PM
  #24  
TECH Enthusiast
 
AnthonyConstant's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2004
Posts: 522
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Default

i emailed you.

no reply yet.

need a price on a complete kit to run 20psi, but a boost controller cause until the summer ill be running only 6psi for the sake of my internals.

price please
Old 01-19-2005, 05:49 PM
  #25  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
tbyrne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mass
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Let me know if you didn't recieve your reply yet.
Old 01-19-2005, 06:48 PM
  #26  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (21)
 
Beast96Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 4,049
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

After doing some reading, it seems that the pipe used to replace the subframe is extremely strong. From other posts, from reputable people, it should be just as strong, if not stronger than the SFC's removed.

Tom, send me a price for a complete kit with upgraded turbo to run 10-20 psi.
Old 01-19-2005, 08:40 PM
  #27  
Teching In
 
2002SS#7867's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Beast96Z
After doing some reading, it seems that the pipe used to replace the subframe is extremely strong. From other posts, from reputable people, it should be just as strong, if not stronger than the SFC's removed.
I JACK UP THE ENTIRE SIDE OF THE CAR with the SLP Bolt-on SFC (and a 1x4 to protect the finish from the floor jack)!

Until someone tells me that I can do that with the STS "pipe", I simply refuse to believe it. I wish someone could give me the facts; what gauge metal, what material, mounts, etc.? Welding an air pipe to the frame just seems so wrong. STS has not answered my questions; rather, they told me to contact an authorized dealer for technical support.

I also prefer the double-diamond SFC approach, and coupled with my stiff SLP driveshaft loop/tunnel brace, my car is completely secured front-to-back and side-to-side.

I hate to be such a stickler about this, but I got so excited about the STS system, only to later learn about the SFC problem. I would LOVE to own this system, but I refuse to give up my beloved SLP SFC's. My car is a 1LE, specifically ordered as a hard-top for rigidy, and I keep the Koni's set at about 80% firm.

When they figure out how to keep the SLP SFC, I'll be ordering!
Old 01-20-2005, 08:31 AM
  #28  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
tbyrne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mass
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Until someone tells me that I can do that with the STS "pipe", I simply refuse to believe it. I wish someone could give me the facts; what gauge metal, what material, mounts, etc.? Welding an air pipe to the frame just seems so wrong. STS has not answered my questions; rather, they told me to contact an authorized dealer for technical support.
I'll see if I can get some accurate answers from STS. The guys over there should be able to provide this to customers that ask them directly.
Old 01-20-2005, 04:36 PM
  #29  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
tbyrne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mass
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

The STS bar has 3/16" mounting brackets and 14 gauge tubing. They bolt on very secure but can also be welded on if desired. STS really doesn't advertise this as a subframe connector. It is an intake tube with built in features of a SFC so that it can do double duty. Personally, I would feel comfortable using this if I was building a turbo f-body that needed SFCs.
Old 01-20-2005, 06:29 PM
  #30  
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (21)
 
Beast96Z's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Shreveport, LA
Posts: 4,049
Likes: 0
Received 3 Likes on 2 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by 2002SS#7867
I JACK UP THE ENTIRE SIDE OF THE CAR with the SLP Bolt-on SFC (and a 1x4 to protect the finish from the floor jack)!

Until someone tells me that I can do that with the STS "pipe", I simply refuse to believe it. I wish someone could give me the facts; what gauge metal, what material, mounts, etc.? Welding an air pipe to the frame just seems so wrong. STS has not answered my questions; rather, they told me to contact an authorized dealer for technical support.

I also prefer the double-diamond SFC approach, and coupled with my stiff SLP driveshaft loop/tunnel brace, my car is completely secured front-to-back and side-to-side.

I hate to be such a stickler about this, but I got so excited about the STS system, only to later learn about the SFC problem. I would LOVE to own this system, but I refuse to give up my beloved SLP SFC's. My car is a 1LE, specifically ordered as a hard-top for rigidy, and I keep the Koni's set at about 80% firm.

When they figure out how to keep the SLP SFC, I'll be ordering!
Boy, you'd hate me. I have the same exact car, 1LE, Koni's, hard top, etc. and I have completly took everything 1LE off the car. If your that worried about a subframe, then you should keep them and get a diffrent power adder, or get a cage. There are plenty of places besides a subframe connector to jack up your car. A subframe connector is a subframe connector. They all do the same basic thing, even if one does double as a air pipe. Sounds to mee like you are more worried about having a jacking point.
Old 01-20-2005, 08:50 PM
  #31  
Teching In
 
2002SS#7867's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Cleveland, OH
Posts: 42
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Originally Posted by Beast96Z
Boy, you'd hate me... Sounds to mee like you are more worried about having a jacking point.
Nah, of course I don't hate you! Only your car does... just kidding! We all set up our cars the way we want them.

Actually, as I explained in another thread, my desires have absolutely nothing to do with jacking. In fact, I prefer to NOT jack from the subframe connector, and try to avoid it. I merely pointed that out as an example to demonstrate the STRENGTH of the subframe connector, wondering how an air pipe could ever match it.

Originally Posted by Beast96Z
If your that worried about a subframe, then you should keep them and get a diffrent power adder, or get a cage.
Yes! That's exactly what I'm debating and trying to decide. Turbo, Supercharger, Heads/Cam, Nitrous, etc. The STS just sounded like such a PERFECT solution, but if I have to forego the subframe connector, it's a major strike against it. This is why I'm continuing to look for information and discuss it in the forums.

Originally Posted by Beast96Z
A subframe connector is a subframe connector. They all do the same basic thing, even if one does double as a air pipe.
Originally Posted by tbyrne
The STS bar has 3/16" mounting brackets and 14 gauge tubing. They bolt on very secure but can also be welded on if desired. STS really doesn't advertise this as a subframe connector. It is an intake tube with built in features of a SFC so that it can do double duty. Personally, I would feel comfortable using this if I was building a turbo f-body that needed SFCs.
Thank you all for the helpful information; I appreciate it!

Any thoughts on the double-diamond concept? Are all subframe connectors really doing the same thing? With my strong SLP tunnel brace/driveshaft loop, connected to each subframe connector, I feel like the car is tied against twisting front-to-rear, and side-to-side. Do I give up the side-to-side security when I replace the double-diamond SFC with a strait SFC or pipe?

Thanks again for all the info and patience guys, I appreciate it!
Old 01-21-2005, 05:11 PM
  #32  
TECH Senior Member
Thread Starter
iTrader: (15)
 
tbyrne's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: Mass
Posts: 8,642
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts

Default

Most of the SFCs on the market do the same thing but they accomplish it in different ways. It just comes down to personal preference

This sale will be running until January 31st.



Quick Reply: STS Turbo sale!



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 02:32 PM.