UMI Performance 3-Point Subframe Connector GP a Go!
#41
ryan, i ordered the subframes, as kind of a test....i figured subframs are pretty much subframes, i was just going to judge the quality of your company and based on the go with your suspension set ups....however after research and talking to some of your current customers, i dont think i even need to see these subframes to understand the quality it appears UMI has put into everything...so good job on making what appears to be all your user pretty damn happy...now i need some honesty, looking at the LCA's, firts off is it ok to use your rod ends on a daily driver? Im not scared of road noise, but i know the less the cusion the harder on parts, if it is gonna cause premature wear should i stick with the urythane?.....and here is the big one, seen a lot of fast cars running the pete z bar setup appose to torque arms....for traction which is the better route, and i dont want just straight line traction, if i sacrifice a few on the 60' for a car i can still corner thats fine....suspension is an art i am far from mastering, and since its your strength, just asking your opinion, i know this is the sfc thread, but i just bought them so i feel i can hi-jack since it seems you read this thread so frequently , thanks a lot
#42
Well, things have changed. This last Thursday we got ALOT of rain and I drove into a huge puddle (an intersection that isn't lit very well) and hydrolocked my motor. Looks like the #7 conecting rod broke and was slappin all over the place. So my car is going to the dealers for a new engine.
My mods are on hold and I totally understand about no discount on the rest of the parts. I hope the GP is still on when my car is fixed.
My mods are on hold and I totally understand about no discount on the rest of the parts. I hope the GP is still on when my car is fixed.
#45
Originally Posted by 2002RamAir
Just wondering about when these will ship??? I was order 10, so is it possiable that I will get mine by the end of next week??? Thx
Thanks for the order but I am sorry you will not have it at the end of next week. My first post states there is a 2 week lead time for shipping on these. We just got the 10th order in last week. We are processing and will ship as fast as possible, please be patient.
Thank you!
Ryan
#47
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I am definitely interested, but I have a few questions and would like to see the added pictures before I order.
1. Will these SFC clear Lane's True Duals (already on my car)? I know that I can't get that brace between them on (no way) but I don't know about the SFC themselves.
2. I would probably buy the bolt on version and weld them in the future. On the chromoly set, are the end plates where you weld them mild steel? I only have a MIG welder, so if they have to be TIG welded, it will be a lot more difficult.
3. How does the weight compare to a set of SLP SFC?
4. When you take additional pictures, I would really like to see a shot or two from the side of the car to see how they hang and ground clearance and stuff. Is this possible?
I guess that is all. If you could answer these questions and then post the new pictures, I'll decide for sure. As long as they will work for me, I'll most likely be in on the GP. Thanks!
1. Will these SFC clear Lane's True Duals (already on my car)? I know that I can't get that brace between them on (no way) but I don't know about the SFC themselves.
2. I would probably buy the bolt on version and weld them in the future. On the chromoly set, are the end plates where you weld them mild steel? I only have a MIG welder, so if they have to be TIG welded, it will be a lot more difficult.
3. How does the weight compare to a set of SLP SFC?
4. When you take additional pictures, I would really like to see a shot or two from the side of the car to see how they hang and ground clearance and stuff. Is this possible?
I guess that is all. If you could answer these questions and then post the new pictures, I'll decide for sure. As long as they will work for me, I'll most likely be in on the GP. Thanks!
#48
Will they fit with my duals?
Driver's Side
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43...r/DSC00089.jpg
Passenger Side
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43...r/DSC00150.jpg
Now in the pictures, it shows a cross brace, there is no way that is going to work, is it necessary?
Will I need longer bolts to accommodate my driveshaft loop?
How long till this GP ends?
Driver's Side
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43...r/DSC00089.jpg
Passenger Side
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y43...r/DSC00150.jpg
Now in the pictures, it shows a cross brace, there is no way that is going to work, is it necessary?
Will I need longer bolts to accommodate my driveshaft loop?
How long till this GP ends?
#49
Hello Members,
Let me try to answer some questions.
1. True Duals- With the large number of aftermarket and home made true dual systems out there and available, this is hard to answer. I am sure they will work with the majority of them, so here is my answer. I will be posting completed installation pictures very shortly; they will show the car on a lift with both the driver and passenger side installed from many angles. If we (UMI) can not answer whether they will clear your true dual system it will be your responsibility to use our posted pictures and determine. I think this is the best and easiest way to do it.
2. Second question, the cross brace in the center is NOT included with the subframe connectors. If you look closely at the pictures you will see this is actually an uncoated tunnel brace mounted torque arm. Sorry for the confusion.
3. Chrome Moly- We have debated whether or not to continue offering Chrome Moly in this item do to cost ect. But if a Chrome Moly set is ordered the mounting tabs/points are mild steel so MIG welding to the chassis of the car is 100% fine….That was a good question.
4. A complete set in Mild Steel will weigh approximately 34 lbs. This is very similar in weight to others available.
5. Drive Shaft Loop- If you are running a drive shaft safety loop or aftermarket tunnel brace you may need to purchase longer bolts for the center mount depending on brand of loop/brace. I will be sure to include the bolt size in the installation instructions to help if longer bolts are needed.
6. Pictures- New pictures will be posted shorty and I will get some showing the car setting on the ground. I will have them up as soon as possible.
7. Group Purchase ends on August 24th at midnight
Hope that helps!
Ryan
Let me try to answer some questions.
1. True Duals- With the large number of aftermarket and home made true dual systems out there and available, this is hard to answer. I am sure they will work with the majority of them, so here is my answer. I will be posting completed installation pictures very shortly; they will show the car on a lift with both the driver and passenger side installed from many angles. If we (UMI) can not answer whether they will clear your true dual system it will be your responsibility to use our posted pictures and determine. I think this is the best and easiest way to do it.
2. Second question, the cross brace in the center is NOT included with the subframe connectors. If you look closely at the pictures you will see this is actually an uncoated tunnel brace mounted torque arm. Sorry for the confusion.
3. Chrome Moly- We have debated whether or not to continue offering Chrome Moly in this item do to cost ect. But if a Chrome Moly set is ordered the mounting tabs/points are mild steel so MIG welding to the chassis of the car is 100% fine….That was a good question.
4. A complete set in Mild Steel will weigh approximately 34 lbs. This is very similar in weight to others available.
5. Drive Shaft Loop- If you are running a drive shaft safety loop or aftermarket tunnel brace you may need to purchase longer bolts for the center mount depending on brand of loop/brace. I will be sure to include the bolt size in the installation instructions to help if longer bolts are needed.
6. Pictures- New pictures will be posted shorty and I will get some showing the car setting on the ground. I will have them up as soon as possible.
7. Group Purchase ends on August 24th at midnight
Hope that helps!
Ryan
#50
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Awesome, thanks for the quick response. I'll check into it and maybe take some pictures from the bottom of my car (I have a lift) and post them so you can tell me if you agree that they will fit. Hope to see the pictures soon!
#51
Originally Posted by matts22
Awesome, thanks for the quick response. I'll check into it and maybe take some pictures from the bottom of my car (I have a lift) and post them so you can tell me if you agree that they will fit. Hope to see the pictures soon!
01TAFlyer- I can't quite tell from the pictures you posted, it looks like it will not be a problem but not sure on that. Once I get some better pictures posted lets take a look then.
Thank you!
#52
Thank you for the response, I think it looks like they will work as well, but I want to see the new pictures once they're up.
Now this is good customer service here. I have heard a lot of good things about UMI, and it is well deserved. I just hope it looks like they'll fit so I can order them
Now this is good customer service here. I have heard a lot of good things about UMI, and it is well deserved. I just hope it looks like they'll fit so I can order them
#53
Originally Posted by 01TAFlyer
Thank you for the response, I think it looks like they will work as well, but I want to see the new pictures once they're up.
Now this is good customer service here. I have heard a lot of good things about UMI, and it is well deserved. I just hope it looks like they'll fit so I can order them
Now this is good customer service here. I have heard a lot of good things about UMI, and it is well deserved. I just hope it looks like they'll fit so I can order them
I will get updated pictures shortly, thanks again for the patiences and interest
#55
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I have a few more questions. Tonight, while I was assembling a tree stand made out of boxed steel (about 1" in diameter load rated for a 250# person), I was using small 4" wrenches to tighten down the bolts. With just hand tools I was able to strip the powder coating and start to crush the tubing. Where the steel was flat with the bolt sticking through, it is now concave after tightening. I was still able to keep turning the wrenches but stopped since I was deforming the metal. The nut never really gave me a real snug or tight feeling.
1. So, I know that this is not a fair comparison, but if a bolt was tightened in the tubular steel that the SFC's are made of, would the tube compress or would it give a tight feeling?
2. Many people use the competitors SFC's as a jack point. I know that that is not what SFC's are designed for, but will the tubing stand up the the abuse of a small bottle jack or large garage jack lifting half the weight of the car?
3. I guess overall, I want to know how strong is the tubing?
4. Also, how abrasion resistant/thick is the powdercoating that is applied? If you did hit a speed bump is it going to scrape off some coloring or is it going to go right down to bare metal?
5. In general, is your red powder coat color similar to other companies red? I ask so if I for some reason down line buy from a different vendor GP if the colors will be close to similar or not even close.
I am not trying to ask loaded questions. So don't read too much into them. I just want to be an informed shopper.
Thanks,
Chris
1. So, I know that this is not a fair comparison, but if a bolt was tightened in the tubular steel that the SFC's are made of, would the tube compress or would it give a tight feeling?
2. Many people use the competitors SFC's as a jack point. I know that that is not what SFC's are designed for, but will the tubing stand up the the abuse of a small bottle jack or large garage jack lifting half the weight of the car?
3. I guess overall, I want to know how strong is the tubing?
4. Also, how abrasion resistant/thick is the powdercoating that is applied? If you did hit a speed bump is it going to scrape off some coloring or is it going to go right down to bare metal?
5. In general, is your red powder coat color similar to other companies red? I ask so if I for some reason down line buy from a different vendor GP if the colors will be close to similar or not even close.
I am not trying to ask loaded questions. So don't read too much into them. I just want to be an informed shopper.
Thanks,
Chris
#56
Originally Posted by shawn's SS
Updates?
Thanks for the patience!
Ryan
#57
Hello Chris,
I will do my best to answer your questions. You are correct; a pre-made tree stand most likely manufactured in China is a poor comparison. When comparing tubing you also need to compare wall thickness as well as the tubing diameter. Round tubing such as we are using is DOM (Drawn over Mandrel) unlike the boxed tubing you are working with that is stitch welded. The 1.000" square tubing most likely with a 0.065" or similar size wall is no comparison to 1.750" x 0.120" thickness DOM tubing which is the base of our SFC. We give you no places where a bolt is ran directly through the tubing, even if so it would be impossible to crush.
- The SFC's themselves can be used as a jacking point with no issues.
- Powder Coat is very durable and is made to help with stand scratching, road chips etc. over basic paint. However a speed bump or any type of payment is and will scratch them. How deep depends on how hard and how fast you hit it.
- We use our own choice Red Powder Coat. It is a very Bright Red and is a nice color. I am sure it is similar to others but can't guarantee it to match perfect.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
I will do my best to answer your questions. You are correct; a pre-made tree stand most likely manufactured in China is a poor comparison. When comparing tubing you also need to compare wall thickness as well as the tubing diameter. Round tubing such as we are using is DOM (Drawn over Mandrel) unlike the boxed tubing you are working with that is stitch welded. The 1.000" square tubing most likely with a 0.065" or similar size wall is no comparison to 1.750" x 0.120" thickness DOM tubing which is the base of our SFC. We give you no places where a bolt is ran directly through the tubing, even if so it would be impossible to crush.
- The SFC's themselves can be used as a jacking point with no issues.
- Powder Coat is very durable and is made to help with stand scratching, road chips etc. over basic paint. However a speed bump or any type of payment is and will scratch them. How deep depends on how hard and how fast you hit it.
- We use our own choice Red Powder Coat. It is a very Bright Red and is a nice color. I am sure it is similar to others but can't guarantee it to match perfect.
Hope that helps,
Ryan
#58
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i have ordered lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar, and weld in relocation brackets from umi performance. all three products were top notch, for the price and excellent customer servise and great shipping there was no comparison out ther i have yet to find.im going to try my hardest to get the money together befor midnight of the 24th to get mine in i know ill be happy w/ them !
#59
Originally Posted by 3rdgentug
i have ordered lower control arms, adjustable panhard bar, and weld in relocation brackets from umi performance. all three products were top notch, for the price and excellent customer servise and great shipping there was no comparison out ther i have yet to find.im going to try my hardest to get the money together befor midnight of the 24th to get mine in i know ill be happy w/ them !
I look foward to doing business again!
Ryan