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Old May 18, 2011 | 10:05 PM
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Okay, really quick...without a huge technical references in response...what does this involve, and what is it supposed to do?
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Old May 18, 2011 | 11:08 PM
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Big three is replacing those thin wires to a much bigger wires that deliver electricity in your car, 1 from alternator to the battery, 2 from the battery to the passenger side fender (small wire behind battery) & third ?? Some route to the K-member I think but don't qoute me on that .. Subscribed
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Old May 19, 2011 | 12:06 AM
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1. Battery Positive to Alternator Output
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
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Old May 19, 2011 | 04:19 AM
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Originally Posted by vjo90rs8
1. Battery Positive to Alternator Output
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
Thank you for clearing that out =)
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Old May 19, 2011 | 08:18 AM
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Originally Posted by vjo90rs8
1. Battery Positive to Alternator Output
2. Battery Negative to Chassis Ground (used stock chassis on driver's side)
3. Chassis Ground to Engine Ground (remove rear alternator bracket, run a wire from where the bracket bolted to the engine to the stock chassis ground location on passenger side)
What guage of wires are used for this? Thanks
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Old May 19, 2011 | 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by mrrman
What guage of wires are used for this? Thanks
4 Gauge will be enough ... But people like to go over the roof with copper thickness.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 12:43 PM
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Originally Posted by mrrman
What guage of wires are used for this? Thanks
I used 0 AWG for the B+ to alternator and B- to alternator because I had leftover wire from my amp installation. Used 4 AWG for engine ground to chassis ground. For the B+ to alternator and engine ground to chassis ground I left the stock wires connected. For the B- to chassis ground I remove the stock wire because it was in the way and only like 12-16 AWG.
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Old May 19, 2011 | 04:39 PM
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Originally Posted by vjo90rs8
I used 0 AWG for the B+ to alternator and B- to alternator because I had leftover wire from my amp installation. Used 4 AWG for engine ground to chassis ground. For the B+ to alternator and engine ground to chassis ground I left the stock wires connected. For the B- to chassis ground I remove the stock wire because it was in the way and only like 12-16 AWG.
Thanks for the info....I have a gnding issue in my car where my battery drains after sitting for a few days. The battery is brand new and tested, the alternator was rebuilt because it fried( dont like rebuilds but had no choice) so I thought that I would start here.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 12:27 PM
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What are the benefits of doing this? I have read countless posts about what to replace and nobody can seem to answer the benefit. I don't have voltage issues right now. I don't plan to run a huge stereo system probably just replace the speakers with one of Kee's package. Any benefit for me to upgrade?
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 12:46 PM
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Originally Posted by djfury05
What are the benefits of doing this? I have read countless posts about what to replace and nobody can seem to answer the benefit. I don't have voltage issues right now. I don't plan to run a huge stereo system probably just replace the speakers with one of Kee's package. Any benefit for me to upgrade?
You certainly found these older threads, so I'm sure you can find it!

I'll give you a hand!

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=big+3+car+upgrade+advantages
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 02:15 PM
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Like I said.. since I won't be doing much upgrading to the speakers except to replace those that are blown with Kee's package.. would it benefit MY SETUP to do this not Joe Schmo's amp and sub system.

I know how to use the search and Google thanks for being a smart *** my question is still unanswered.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 02:31 PM
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If you're not having issues right now, no it won't really help you at all. Just something people do when the problem arises or in anticipation of putting in a system. All that being said, it won't hurt either and is pretty simple.
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Old Sep 12, 2011 | 04:12 PM
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Originally Posted by djfury05
Like I said.. since I won't be doing much upgrading to the speakers except to replace those that are blown with Kee's package.. would it benefit MY SETUP to do this not Joe Schmo's amp and sub system.

I know how to use the search and Google thanks for being a smart *** my question is still unanswered.
Haha sorry, I had to.

But mainly a lot of people go for it as a piece of mind.. So they know there's no corrosion on the stock wiring. The stock wiring is fairly small and at the edge of its limits. Some people have reported 1-2mpg more, but who knows.

So other than audio I wouldn't see much of a proven use for it, unless it's just to help get a better signal across the system.
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Old Sep 13, 2011 | 05:25 AM
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Originally Posted by Shenlon
If you're not having issues right now, no it won't really help you at all. Just something people do when the problem arises or in anticipation of putting in a system. All that being said, it won't hurt either and is pretty simple.
Good deal thanks

Originally Posted by Rauch
Haha sorry, I had to.

But mainly a lot of people go for it as a piece of mind.. So they know there's no corrosion on the stock wiring. The stock wiring is fairly small and at the edge of its limits. Some people have reported 1-2mpg more, but who knows.

So other than audio I wouldn't see much of a proven use for it, unless it's just to help get a better signal across the system.
Thank you
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